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810pp wont raise up all of the way

Discussion in 'Blizzard Plows Discussion' started by firelwn82, Dec 26, 2010.

  1. firelwn82

    firelwn82 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,862

    My 2006 model 810pp is not lifting up all the way. When up its only about 6-8 inches off the ground. Whats the deal?? What needs to be fixed or changed?
     
  2. JohnnyU

    JohnnyU 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,040

    Check all of the draw latch pins and plates. They wear and cause the plow to raise lower with age.
     
  3. firelwn82

    firelwn82 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,862

    Thank you Johnny. Where would these pins and latches be?
     
  4. JohnnyU

    JohnnyU 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,040

    They are within the draw latch itself.

    Drawlatch.jpg
     
  5. firelwn82

    firelwn82 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,862

    Thank you sir. SO I'm going to have to take this bracket apart in order to see the pins pretty much right? Again thanks for your time and info
     
  6. magnatrac

    magnatrac PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,055

    If you have the plow off the truck you can see if there is play in the latch/lift assembly. Just look at it closely no need to tear it apart yet. Look for slop in the holes on the plates of steel and wear on the pins. Your plow doesn't have that much time on it, have you check the fluid level ?

    , shaun
     
  7. firelwn82

    firelwn82 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,862

    I know it that's why I'm not to happy about it. Yeah fluid is topped off and no leaks what so ever. I need to get it fixed though. Maybe you could give me a hand with this issue Shaun?
     
  8. Pristine PM ltd

    Pristine PM ltd PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,794

    Not a cheap fix if it is the play thing. Alot of mine don't raise very far.
     
  9. firelwn82

    firelwn82 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,862

    Tell me what on a blizzard is a cheap fix.....
     
  10. IMAGE

    IMAGE Sponsor
    Messages: 1,741

    I've learned to keep my torch and welder handy with my 810. I'm in the middle of rebuilding the entire front pin area of the a-frame that the blade pivots L/R on. Thankfully its gonna be under $50, and only a few hours of work.

    But back on topic. I put some 1/2" plate steel between the bottom of the truck side mount, and the top of the latch arm, and it increased the height mine lifted by about 3".

    Right on top of the flat spot in this pic.

    Drawlatch.jpg

    Drawlatch.jpg
     
  11. firelwn82

    firelwn82 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,862

    So your saying put the plate on the smaller of the flat spot or on the entire area?
     
  12. fastjohnny

    fastjohnny Senior Member
    Messages: 654

    The pin that I see the most wear in is the draw latch mount pin. Check that first. Second would be the inner draw latch plates at the bottom, especially if you have bottomed out on curbs, those can take some abuse.

    Yes, weld a plate across the draw latch as indicated by the arrows, roughly 2" x 3"

    These are wear items, and not expensive, just a cost of doing business.
     
  13. JohnnyU

    JohnnyU 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,040

    Just the small raised part. I add a block onto the draw latch "finger" as well. Basically, both the bottom and back sides of where the latch plates contact the push beam on the truck. I think I have a picture.
     
  14. firelwn82

    firelwn82 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,862

    I think I found the problem. The bolt that hooks the a frame and the mold boasrd together is loose. When you lift up on the a frame there is alot of play at that point. All of the draw latch parts and pins seem to be solid. No movement what so ever..... Now what??
     
  15. Pristine PM ltd

    Pristine PM ltd PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,794

    take it to a welder and get them to replace the bolt.
     
  16. fastjohnny

    fastjohnny Senior Member
    Messages: 654

    Replacing the center bolt may help, but the issue, then, is the wear in the bushing. You should be able to fill in the pivot beam center bolt hole with weld, to the proper 1" diameter. I'd hope that A frame bushing wouldn't be too bad yet.
     
  17. IMAGE

    IMAGE Sponsor
    Messages: 1,741

    I just rebuilt that entire front bushing support. Stock it is only held in place by 1/8" plate top and bottom. The welds on mine completely broke, and left my bushing flopping around in a big hole on the end of the A-frame.

    I torched the top and bottom off. And rebuilt it using 1/2" plate. I added a center plate also, so there are now three 1/2" plates supporting that bushing. Hopefully this is the last major 'fix' for a bad design by Blizzard. As you can see in the pics I did a manifold flip, and positive stops, previously.

    Total cost was $80 in having the steel plates cut to size, and bored to fit the bushing. and about 5 hours of my time.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2010
  18. IMAGE

    IMAGE Sponsor
    Messages: 1,741

  19. SnowGuy73

    SnowGuy73 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 24,867

    Ain't that the truth....
     
  20. ctbman

    ctbman Member
    Messages: 76

    In the drawing you will see the 3/4/10x4/1/2 bolt. right adove that and forward a bit there is a flat spot on both sides of the lift arm. the easiest way to fix the low lift problem is to weld a 1/2x1/2x2" piece of steelon top of them 1/2" there gives you about 3" out front.