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8.5 C Pivot Pins Problem

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by firefighter1406, Oct 14, 2009.

  1. firefighter1406

    firefighter1406 Senior Member
    Messages: 328

    I am tearing my plow all the way down to grind rust down and repaint to get ready for this season. I got one of the pivot pins out with no problem. The other is being a pain in the butt. It will not budge. I have tried to drill it out and hit it with a air hammer. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to get this out. I have thought about hitting it with a torch but don't want to damage the plow. I need help. I am going to replace the pivots with the greaseable ones when I am done. I appriecate any help.
     
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    When they're froze, they're usually froze in the sector side of the tube..they seldom seem to freeze up on the moldboard side. The best way to get them out is to drive them out with a long skinny punch. If you look near the end of pivot tube on the sector, there will be a small hole in the pivot brace. (the flat curved bar with the holes where you'd install a pin to hold the blade in the angled position if it wasn't power angle) The pivot brace covers the end of the pivot pin tube on the inside but if you look closely, there is a small hole in it to put the punch though so you can drive directly on the pivot pin in order to drive it out of the tube. You can try to drive it out without adding any heat but in most cases heat is usually required, and plenty of of. Heat the sector side tubes until they're good and hot and drive the pins out. Worst case scenario slice the sector tube(s) lengthwise, drive the pins out, then weld the slice back up.
     
  3. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,993

    We find its just as quick to cut the tube off and replace it. You need to replace the pin anyway, the parts are cheap and the labor time is much less then struggling (often unsuccessfully) to drive the pin out.

    It's a little more if it is stuck on the moldboardside on the C8.5 the entire box needs replaced and that is a little more money, mostly parts cost.
     
  4. Kenyou

    Kenyou Senior Member
    Messages: 375

    I to had a heck of a time removing my pivot pins and took it to shop to have them done. The guy plows snow and is a mechanic. The year before he did the same thing and I had him install the new ones with the grease zerks, which didn't help because the grease came out by the holes next to the zerk. the other end didn't get any grease. This time when he took them out I watched him do it, even though he didn't want me to. He said I'll drive you home if you like but I declined. He tried to knock them out like everybody says and it didn't work just like I had tried to do. This time he took the plow off the truck after he removed all the springs and then tipped the plow over on the face of the mold board and laid the A Frame down the other way. Then the pivot pins were easily removed without all the weight of the plow on them. I then put grease on the pins and Anti Seize on the sector side This year I tried the old way and it still didn't work. So I took all four springs off and laid the mold board on the ground face down and laid the A Frame down on the other way. They still didn't come out so I used a little pry bar to lift up on the sector side as it seemed to be binding on the pin and they slid right out with the grease and Anti Seizo still on them. I cleaned the pins and Anti Siezed the heck out of them and the inside of the tubes. When I put the pins back in I tried to take them out and couldn't until I relieved that pressure. Now maybe that was because it was all done on the uneven ground and not on the cement. Next time I will do it on the cement and see if that helps.

    Hopes this helps.

    John
     
  5. dlcs

    dlcs 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,149

    I remove the trip springs every season to make sure the moldboard pins are not froze up. As long as it is able to trip, i don't change the pins. Only one time did I have to change a set of pins on a old ST and it was a pita. I ended up using alot of heat and a sledge.
     
  6. firefighter1406

    firefighter1406 Senior Member
    Messages: 328

    Thanks for our your help guys. I was struggling with my oxy/acy torch to get in running right, tried drilling out the pins, hitting it with a puch and hammer, air hammer, and heating with a mapp gas torch. Well needless to say all options didn't work. I got my torch working then, heated up the pin tubes red hot and then hit it with a air hammer....nothing.:mad: Then my brother said hey try a hammer and punch, was about ready to give it up when I felt it move. Kept going and it finally came out. I think that torch set up was the best buy I have in my garage. So the three hours my dad and I messed around with trying to drill it out, I got all the bolts on the cutting edge and a-frame and the pin out in about 45 min. Thanks to all of you guys for your help.