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700R4 Question

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Sydenstricker Landscaping, Jul 24, 2010.

  1. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    I have been having issues with the torque converter going into lock up. When I hit say 60 mph, and it goes to lock up, it almost wont and starts to shake/vibrate. Let off the gas and back into it, locks up and does just fine. Does the same when going up hill, takes a minute to drop out of lock up and down shift a little. Gets the same shake. But it only does this when in o/d not with the selector in regular drive. Im guessing the lock up solenoid (if there is one) is going bad and causing these issues. The trans fluid is clean, no metal shavings or burnt smell to it. Goes thru every gear just perfectly though. If it is that solenoid, where the heck is it located?? Do I need to drop the pan and get into the valve body, or is it located externally on the trans??
     
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Converter shudder plagued the 700/4L60/4L60E for years and is caused by several mechanical and electrical issues both. As a couple quick preliminary tests if you can reliably duplicate the problem...



    While it's shuddering, lightly step on the brakes just enough to light the brake lights. Turn the hazards on so you can use the turn signal indicators to identify when the brake lights are on. Stepping on the brakes cancels the TC lockup (whether it's attempting to lock or is already locked) thus any shudder, that way you'll know for sure if you're really dealing with a TC issue or another problem.

    Next, take your foot and hook it under the brake pedal and hold up on it right before you're at the road speed where the TC normally locks, noting if it locks without any shudder this time. Then (and under the same conditions) bump the side of the pedal a few times with your foot AFTER you're sure it's locked up. Be sure to try these techniques at least 5 or 6 times looking for consistent results. Sometimes it's the brake light switch itself (worn out) that will cause the TC signal to be erratic thus rapidly cycling the signal down to the lockup solenoid. Many TC's have been replaced due to nothing more than a $10 brake light switch so check this first before you get into more involved and expensive fixes.
     
  3. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    Well I tried what you said B&B. Started to shudder, tap the brake and it went away. Did the foot under the pedal and let it go into lockup without a single issue. Went and got a new switch, 10 bucks right on the head, and no more shudder!! Cant believe a brake switch would cause my trans to have issues, lol. Thank you so much for the help!!! I think this was about the easiest one to figure out. Now, what would cause it to have the delay when I switch from park to drive or reverse to drive?? Does it worst when it is cold, then once the trans warms, it is ok.
     
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Nice to hear it was a cheap one this time Tom, you deserve it. :drinkup:

    The delayed engagement (especially when cold) is another famous issue of
    them. And it's just due to wear, mileage and age and nothing short of a
    valve body rebuild or reman replacement will fully cure it. It's just tired. It's not detrimental to the remainder of the transmissions life though
    on a non plow equipped truck, just a quirk you'll either have to get used
    to or address the VB as mentioned so don't get too concerned about it yet.
     
  5. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    Yeah I think that was about my cheapest fix on anything lately, lol. So the delay is just a valve body issue then, well that is better than needing the entire trans rebuilt. It has 153K on it now, so at some point I will get a fresh one for it. 700R4s seem to be the simplest trans to work on compared to the 4L80E. Thanks again B&B:waving:
     
  6. jomama45

    jomama45 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,172

    Mike, your knowledge never ceases to amaze me............................ :eek:


    :mechanic:

    You are a true asset to this place. :drinkup:
     
  7. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    Well the shudder decided to come back. It is not as violent as before, but still sucks. My guess is the converter has suffered some damage from it doing this for a long time. Question I have, how hard is the 700R4 to drop?? This trans looks like a toy compared to the 4L80E in my truck, but still wont be that easy. What brand/kind of converter should I look for when I replace it?? I will also be doing the valve body at the same time too. Is there anything else I should replace or check while it is out on the ground?? It has 153K on it, never towed or plowed a day in its life. Any further help will be greatly appreciated!!!:waving:
     
  8. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    150K is about the max life span on a 4L60 Tom and with that many miles on the clock I wouldn't even consider going through the effort to remove and partially disassemble it just to freshen the valve body and TC. Or else it won't be long and you'll be removing it again to rebuild the rest of the trans that should have been done the first time. So either pull it for a full freshening or disconnect the 4-pin connector on the side of the trans (disables the TC lockup) and simply run it until it dies.
     
  9. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    That sounds fine to me then, lol. Not the first time I will have run something till it dies. Just dont want it to be unreliable since it is my wife's vehicle and she will kick my a$$ if it leaves her stranded:yow!: Will unplugging that connector severely shorten its life expectancy?? We do some highway driving, but usually not more than 30 miles. The longer runs have been delegated to my truck. I have never rebuilt a trans before. How hard is the 700 to tear into and rebuild?? Or should I just say screw it and let a shop do it??
     
  10. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Running around town or less than 30 miles at a time on the highway won't drastically shorten it's life with the TC disabled but if you plan to go on any long hauls it's wise to plug it back in and let it shudder when it engages. Because in 4th gear during extended travels it needs the TC locked for full lube supply to the rear gear set so if it's run too long unlocked it will take out the rear gear set eventually, but short trips will have minimal affect on it. And once (and if) it goes it won't be a catastrophic failure thus leaving her dead in the water, so no fears there of her assaulting you. Not for this at least. :D

    If you've never done an auto before a 4L60 isn't really the best thing to learn on. They're rather finicky (ask any trans shop) and don't take kindly to being a guinea pig for a first timer. They also require some special tools to do properly. Until you bought the needed tools, a box kit, upgrades for the VB and a new TC you'd be much further ahead to have a pro do it and include a warranty. You could however remove and install it yourself which would help cut some costs if it won't affect the given warranty. Some shops allow it but many do not due to the sensitively of setting them up correctly during the install. Namely setting the TV cable adjustment to precision which they require. So that's a question you want to ask the shop while inquiring.

    Plus you did say it must be reliable for previous said reasons. :D
     
  11. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    Well that answers my question then. Let a pro do it!! As long as it doesnt leave her stranded, that is all I care about. I kinda figured it would need a rebuild soon since it is a 4L60/700R4 and they were never known for life expectancy versus the 4L80E. If it wasnt such a major job, I would get 4L60E or a 4L80E put in. But that would take alot of work, an be very costly, especially the 80E. Thanks for the info!!:waving: