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6.0 manifold bolt broken

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by 00bluegtp, Dec 20, 2010.

  1. 00bluegtp

    00bluegtp Member
    Messages: 71

    Is there any trick to removing and replacing these. The back one on the pass side broke on me. Im nervous to do it because i feel like they are all going to break when i try to remove them. any help is appreciated as always.
  2. Mxrider069

    Mxrider069 Member
    Messages: 85

    When you go to take them out, be very careful or you may break some. When removing them, try loosening them al little bit them tightening them multiple times to try and get the treads cleaned out. When you get them all out, theres a slim chance you will be able to get vice grips on the stud of the broken one. If you can try heating the HEAD up around the bolt and try to extract it. If you cant get vice grips on it, the way i did it was take the plastic wheel liner down and drilled threw there and used a easy out to remove it. Make sure to get new bolts from the DEALER and gaskets. The new bolts have a 12mm head on them and will last alot longer.
  3. stacks04

    stacks04 Senior Member
    from ct
    Messages: 119

    Here is what we do at the dealer. First off, your on the worse side because of the dipstick. Second, remove the wheel liner to gain the best access to all the components. Third look for stainless bolts at your local hardware store because the new ones brake off just as frequently as the old ones did. Removing the manifold is the best thing to do because it frees up the room to get to the broken bolt the easiest. I would start by soaking down the good bolts with pb blaster for a couple days before taking anything apart.

    The biggest thing about removing the other good bolts if trying to heat them up a bit. The loctite combined with a weakened bolt head tend to cause them to brake, although the rest of the bolts usually tend to come out. The heat usually will melt the loctite on the bolt threads and make removal alot easier. Use one of the plumber propane torches and heat it for a couple seconds then remove them.
  4. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    easy job like this.

    remove inner fender and tire for more room to work.

    remove the manifold from motor.

    clean the broken bolt stub with somthing to remove the rust like a grinder or sand flapper disk. so you have realy clean metal.

    grab some 3/8 cheep nuts. get the mig welder out. and also a good oxy/act cutting setup for good strong heat.

    weld the 3/8 nut to the stub of the broken bolt by starting on the broken bolt and in a circle pattern filling in the center of the nut till flush with the top.

    let this now cool all the way. next get some cold water in a small cup. then heat the area around the broken bolt up good. but dont melt any thing. the aluminum will be fine . when the area is good n hot vie the new nut on the broken bolt starting to glow. quickly drench the nut/bolt with the cold water. then slowly try and spin it out.

    this works for me 98% of the time on the many many i have done. slow and steady wins this race. and yes it might take 2-3-4 nuts to finaly get it to come out. but it works.

    the bolts are 8mm 1.25pitch metric . i also clean ALL the holes in the head with a tap and rinse out with brake cleaner. then reinstall with new gaskets for the manifold to head and down pipe to manifold.

    sounds hard but its not. and the drill and tap thing is a p.i.t.a on the factory hardened bolts so dont waist your time.

    hope this helps. :mechanic:
  5. flykelley

    flykelley 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,124

    X 2 this is what I did, not a bad job really. The worst part is laying over the top of the fender. Not sure of you can remove the DS skirt because the main beck is bolted to it.I didn't have to heat anything, jsut welded the nut to the broken stud, heat from the welding of the nut seemed to be enough for me. I did both sides had two briken on the DS and oone broken on the PS. Replace all of the bolts and the gaskets.

    Regards Mike
  6. mikelawtown

    mikelawtown Senior Member
    from Mass
    Messages: 426

    Looking to get mine done, any garage in Mass-NH do this...?
  7. BigLou80

    BigLou80 Senior Member
    Messages: 558

    lots of them do
  8. marylandbigb

    marylandbigb Member
    Messages: 86

    very good info on getting the bolts out but remember check the flatness of the manifold if it is warped it will put pressure on the new bolts and break them rather quickly i suggest new manifold with new bolts and it will last alot longer
  9. vwmurph

    vwmurph Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 38

    I just did mine yesterday (2006 2500HD with 80k). Took about 3 hours start to finish. I ordered new manifolds from GM with all new bolts, studs, and gaskets. I removed both inner fender liners. I had two broken bolts on the drivers side and one broken on the passengers side. I would recommend having a new dipstick tube on hand as mine was rusted and broke in half when trying to remove it from the block. I was fully expecting the worse in terms of drilling and tapping but three bolts came out without any problems. The engine was still fairly warm when I did it, so that may have helped. I used a stud remover and they spun right out http://www.amazon.com/Alert-29895-Mayhew-Stud-Extractor/dp/B000XSCDEA. Good luck
  10. damian

    damian Senior Member
    Messages: 330

    dont overtighten these bolts looser is better then tighter here,you need the manifold to move,not bend and cycle the bolts until they break. also, when doing the mig weld trick on a flush or near flush bolt,weld a flat washer first to the stud\bolt then a nut to the washer.cool the stud,heat the area,work it out. some times the mig trick doesnt work and now you have just made the stud heat treated and impossible to drill.in this case i use small rotary ball end bur\carbide grinder and grind it down to softer metal,then drill. 90% time the mig works but you have to have plan b if it dont. good advice from sweetk30
  11. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    like i said its not 100% perfect.

    i will say i tryed a 460 van motor 1 time no go at all ! ! ! ! boy was i bummed out. and had a 3.9 dodge v6 in dakota both center bolts no go at all. cust said bolt on and go. i used new gaskets and high temp red sealer . let sit few hr's . he still goin quiet as can be months later.

    pulled the heads and sent to machine shop. before the guy got back to the shop thay called and had them out and ready to pick up.

    thay were cast iron heads and had 1/32 layer of rust on the top of the broken bolt. when thay put in a left hand bit in the lathe and started thay all come right out with lots of rust on top of each.

    so yes its slow and steady but dont try for ever. i did get one on nut #7 or 8 1 time . so slow and steady. and if you can soak with pb blaster over night first.