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$500 later and still only goes up!! Need Help!

Discussion in 'Hiniker' started by noclueracer, Jan 7, 2011.

  1. noclueracer

    noclueracer Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    Let me start backwards.. I just replaced the brushes in my altenator today in my 94 dodge 3/4 ton. The truck has died a couple times lately like today at the gas station. Not knowing it was the brushes, last week i put in a brand new battery. I found today that wasn't the problem though with the truck dieing after replacing the altanator brushes. anyhow the plow is a hiniker straight blade i bought a couple weeks ago. after mounting and wiring the plow i noticed the guy gave me 2 remote controls for it. I found that one was burnt up inside and that the other one seemed fine. although through testing it i found that it would only make the plow go up and down. and when i moved the joystick left or right it also made it go up,, but not when it was on the ground, it would just make the solenoid under the hood click... it had to be raised a inch or so for the left or right to make it go up.. so at the time i did some research on this forum heard that most guys have problems with their solenoids. So i bought all brand new solenoids both directionals the up and down and the one under the hood.. And plus through my error i burnt up the good controller i had that was makin the plow somewhat work.. But now I just bought another new $200 controller.. And guess what all this new stuff and yet the same thing the plow will only go up and down, and when i move the joystick left or right it does the same it goes up!! I dont wanna burn up another controller so if anybody can help me before my girlfriend kills me that would be appreciated.. thanks
     
  2. noclueracer

    noclueracer Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    And can anyone tell me why the headights on the plow are so dim but the truck headlights are bright and the blinker lights on the plow wont work either. I believe all my wiring is correct. just dont know what else to try..
     
  3. dforbes

    dforbes Senior Member
    Messages: 247

    The light problem sounds like you may have a bad ground. When you replaced the seleniods was there rust on the shaft. You may try sanding the shaft lightly with emery cloth and then spraying them with electrical cleaner. Other than that I would say it is at wiring problem. Have someone work the controller while you check for power at each function. Check the harness over really good to make sure there are no nicks or broken wires.
     
  4. NICHOLS LANDSCA

    NICHOLS LANDSCA PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 4,305

    I'd check ALL the pins on the round plug both the male and female. DOUBLE check the female to make sure they aren't pushed IN, if they are you can pull it back out with a pick while pushing on the wire.
     
  5. Snowzilla

    Snowzilla Senior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 397

    There may be other issues. But I'd say dim lights & maybe the quirky blinkers may be the result of a bad ground connection. Either in the plow harness to ground connection or even the truck. Make sure your battery ground cable is in good condition at both battery and to wherever it goes to on your truck. If it is questionable I would replace it.

    Have you confirmed your wiring with the Hiniker wire diagram. You can download the manual for your plow for free at hiniker.com and it should have a wiring schematic.
     
  6. noclueracer

    noclueracer Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    I have went over the wiring schematics a couple times. Im pretty sure it is all correct its pretty straight forward if you know what i mean.. One thing i have noticed though was the ground wire coming off the battery that goes to the truck body, it is like a 8gauge wire which is stock, it gets extremely hot. I'll try pulling off the lead and make sure there is no rust or paint in between the terminal. Im just not convinced that will correct the plow only going up.. maybe it will fix the lights, if there is a issue there... When i replaced the directional coils they came with the new shafts and small pins in the ends so there is no rust on them at all. I was thinkin after lookin at the pump diagram, is there a possibility that the cam inbetween the directional coils could be froze up? Is the cam inside the pump supposed to move like side to side or is it supposed to spin in the pump? and how easy is it to move? Thanks!
     
  7. NICHOLS LANDSCA

    NICHOLS LANDSCA PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 4,305

    If it's going up there isn't anything wrong with the pump. You already replaced the coils but did you check to see if you had power going to them? and if so did you check the coils to see if they were bad? I'm guessing no, to check the coil pull one off the valve and energize it and with a screwdriver inside the coil, it should magnetize and suck the screwdriver to the side. It's hard to believe you would have 2 bad valves.
     
  8. Snowzilla

    Snowzilla Senior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 397

    I would verify the bigger ground cable lead (which should go to frame and/or engine block) is in good condition. No fungus or rusted up. The hot cable leads me to believe that is trying to carry more current than it is designed for. A flaky ground could be the reason your truck stalled too. (I've experienced- but it is obvious because you have no electrical power at all i.e. no dome light, etc.)

    As mentioned by Nichols, check the harness to plow connections for healthy looking pins.

    You mentioned that one of the 2 controllers was burnt up when you purchased. Maybe you could ask the previous guy what may have caused this.

    Does the Hiniker underhood wiring harness look like it may have been modified in anyways?
     
  9. Snowzilla

    Snowzilla Senior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 397

    Any progress or resolution?
     
  10. Laszlo Almasi

    Laszlo Almasi Senior Member
    Messages: 326

    I just had a similar issue with mine. Mine was due to a "d'oh" moment on our part and the terminals were pulled off the solenoids. Not having the manual with us, it was trial and error on the leads. We got it and all was right in plow-land. So, with that...I'd venture to say there is something not wired properly.

    As for the dim headlights, I'd ceck all of those connections as well, both ground and power supply. Also, are the lights the older plastic lamp or the newer glass lamp. If they are the older plastic, then is the plastic faded and yellow? If they are, rather than polishing them with Meguiars plastic headlight polish, or replacing them with the OEM, replace them with Hella lamps and a PIAA Extreme White 110w/100w H4 bulb. You will have more light than you can imagine and for those inconsiderate drivers with their high beams on....you might be able to singe their retinas a little when you put yours on high.
     
  11. noclueracer

    noclueracer Junior Member
    Messages: 11




    So I pulled the directional coils back off the pump and took a hammer and chisel and tapped on the cam on the inside, kept switching side to side tapping on the cam, and then adventually it broke loose. But it had alot of friction inside so i decided to just pull it all apart and so i took the square caps off and on the right side the spring was all bound up and what was really weird is there was corrosion on very inside by the cam so it had contact with the hydraulic fluid was evident. so at this point I thought changing the oil was a good idea. So i used a vacuum pump and sucked it all out, since hiniker makes their pumps without drain plugs. I actually found alot of other contaminants in the fluid as well besides the corrosion. They make literally impossible to get at the 4 bolts to the oil tank on the side of the pump other wise i would just pulled it off and replaced the intake and return filters too. But finding a tiny 1/4 wrench with a paper thin 6 point box end wrench is hard to come by.. anyhow back to the cam that was kind mushroomed on the ends and was sharp too so i took some 320 grit and polished the outside ends smooth and straight. put that back in. then the little 4 point stars with a hole in the middle both left and right were bent up so straighten those put them in along with the springs and the square caps. I put the new coils back on and put new hydraulic plow oil in and fired it up, and guess what..It worked great, the plow functioned and moved side to side real smooth. So went to go plow my big driveway and about 6 or 7 swipes later the truck went dead.... I just got the charger off the truck today, plow is working good yet. but far as the battery goes it keeps going dead like as if the alternator isn't big enough or its not sending the juice back to the battery. It still seems like the truck is still just running off the battery. The gage is always shows it low too... I'm gonna get a new negative terminal today so i can put in a new thicker body ground cause i have't messed with that yet . and it still gets warm but I don't think it is the reason the battery keeps going dead. I think thats why my lights are dim if any thing.... Any other ideas why my battery keeps going dead??
     
  12. Snowzilla

    Snowzilla Senior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 397

    Wow, you really had to tear into it. I've never had problems with my plow but did finally change the hydraulic fluid. I did not want to remove the whole pump as the manual suggested. Instead, I used a cheap bulb type siphon to suck out all the fluid I could (turkey baster would work too). The screws that hold the reservoir are tough, but I did manage to use a box or open end wrench.

    There is a magnet on the bottom near the intake screen that can be removed and clean too.

    I digress on what I said previously about a large current draw. It could also be that the grounding end of the cable isn't good enough and the cable is acting like a resistor. You could disconnect the ground from battery and use an ohmmeter to check resistance between the Neg. battery terminal & ground cable. It should be near zero Ohms (no resistance).

    Like you said it could be that you running from battery only & alternator isn't charging. Which explains the discharged battery. An easy test with a voltmeter or the positive terminal of battery test voltage before you start your truck, then start. It should be in the 14 volt range if alternator is charging.

    Further investigating:
    It would be best to remove your alterrnator and have its health tested at any auto store (free). It may have bad diodes and could be the a possibility of the discharge.What you have is parasitic draw. It can be difficult to track down. If you have a lot of aftermarket accessories wired up, you could experiment by disconnecting them. There are also tests you can do using an ammeter on the battery and pulling fuses to narrow it down a circuit. Here is an article for you using an multimeter.

    http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batteries/BatteryDrain.html

    Also, since the internals of your pump were seized up. I wonder if the plow operation is drawing more current than normal.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2011
  13. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    Your dimming lights are definetly a bad grd. talked to a dealer said that was my problem ..that is why hiniker went to a 5 pin harness so it haS
     
  14. noclueracer

    noclueracer Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    Thanks for all the feed back guys.. So i drove my truck up to O Reillys and they tested my charging system. At the time my they said my battery was at like 3% but it was good and only needed a charge. And the altenator with the new bruxhes was only pushing out about 30amps, which aint **** i guess. they had a choice between a 90amp and a 120amp altenator so i just bought the 120amp for $140 plus a core deposit.

    So hoping that the altanator was the solution to my problem I charged the battery again and I went ahead and plowed the driveway last night. About halfway through the battery I could tell was starting to get weaker as the gauge showed it and the radio would cut out whenever i functioned the joystick. I was able to plow the whole driveway this time. And it did start back up after i shut the truck off. But the battery was no where near 50% even.
    The only good thing i noticed is that the plow headlights were much brighter this time around, almost as bright as the regular truck lights.. I did clean up body ground terminal. But does still get warm. not nearly as hot as it was getting though previously.. So maybe it is acting like a resister, im not sure.
    Today im gonna drive my truck back to the auto store and have them check to see if my battery is getting the 120amps like its supposed to be getting from the altenator.. If that isn't the problem, then i'll be lost again.
    Hopefully they can tell me what it is and if they cant I'm then going to buy a new negative terminal that allows the option of putting whatever thicknesses and quanities of wires you want on to it.
    I guess if I cant figure it out today I'll buy a ohm meter tonight, and start doing some tests like Snowzilla was suggesting.
     
  15. Laszlo Almasi

    Laszlo Almasi Senior Member
    Messages: 326

    I've learned the lesson from other people buying rebuilt electrical parts. They can work 10 years, 1 year, 1 month, 1 week, or 1 time. I always opt for a brand new alternator, starter etc if I needed anything.

    As for the drain on your battery, that is going to be there...which is why many of us install dual battery kits.
     
  16. noclueracer

    noclueracer Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    Well I brought my truck back to O reillys tonight and they tested my battery again and guess what the new 120amp altanator they sold me is only pushing 30 amps back to the battery. Their tester said that the voltage regulator is bad. So they looked it up in the computer and they dont sell just a voltage regulator. So they said it must be in the altanator. So they were basically saying the one they sold me was already bad. Which made no sense cause the brand new one and the old one were both pushing the exact same amperage 30amps. The local starter and altenator rebuilder in town said that there was not a voltage regulator inside my old altanator. That was last week when he replaced the brushes in the old one. So i knew I wasn't getting anywhere with Oreillys so I called the dodge dealer and they told me that my voltage regulator is inside my PCM. They also said that the PCM goes for about $410 and they cant even get one any more for my truck.. I looked online and i get a reprogrammed remanufacted one for $200 then I got to mail them the core which they pay for.. That all sounds like a good deal and all. But before I go spending another $200 I need to know for sure that this has the voltage regulator inside it. If it dont im going to be pissed. I dont like going off of assumtions.. The thing I dont like is there is this little black box with terminals sticking out of it, that bolts up on to the back of the altanator, No one can tell me what that is. It has a thick wire coming out of it that goes to the top of the engine (ground-) then the other wires go into the wiring harness. How do they know that isn't the voltage regulator.? Cause I tell ya what it I had to replace the voltage regualar on my sled and it was about the exact same size it was grounded the exact same way and it had about the same amount of wires going into that harness. So if I had to go with my gut i'd say that box on the back of the altnator is the voltage regualor.
    So tomorrow im gonna go down to the junkyard and cut one of them boxes out of truck like mine and wire that into my truck before i go out and buy a new computer for my truck.
     
  17. Laszlo Almasi

    Laszlo Almasi Senior Member
    Messages: 326


    Told ya...rebuilt alternators are typically crap and leave you stranded.
     
  18. Snowzilla

    Snowzilla Senior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 397

    Well looks like your pin pointing the problem. I don't know anything about Dodge's but from google search articles indicate that it is part of the PCM you mentioned.

    I did find an article on a normal voltage regulator retrofit...
    http://thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58251

    I'm not sure what the part may be on the back of alternator. I'd recommend a Hayne's Repair manual for your truck if you don't have one.

    Good luck.
     
  19. Stoney

    Stoney Member
    from NW OHIO
    Messages: 37

    Did you unhook the wires coming off the solenoids and swap them from the lift cylinder to the angle cylinder. Then the angle should work if it doesn't then probably your spools are stuck in the valve. I would doubt that it is the electrical on the truck you are connected directly to the battery and all the alternator really does is charge the battery and maintain the electrical power for the function of the truck the plow will draw more amperage than the alternator puts out. I hate the rf controls I have all mine with hard-wire controllers. The best way to test your valves is to jump power to your pump motor and test each solenoid individually by putting voltage to it to isolate the problem also I believe you have to learn each controller to the main unit for it to work properly.
     
  20. noclueracer

    noclueracer Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    I fixed the directional on the plow. That already works... Battery is still going low as of last night I plowed my driveway and the battery was under 20% it wasn't the box on the back of the altanator either I tried a different one and it did the same drain while just sitting at idle... So I guess im going to get a new PCM hopefully that will cure the drain.. Im lookin for a good deal on one now anybody got any suggestions? I also heard from someone that you can order a new PCM to your own specifcations for instance I have the double ram dump box on my truck as well as the plow. I'd say they both use about the same amount of juice.. But I'd like to have it built for more power output as well as make sure it handles the big 120amp altanator... Does anybody know what im talking about or is this thread getting old? lol.