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350 rebuild

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by bossblu4x4, Nov 4, 2003.

  1. bossblu4x4

    bossblu4x4 Junior Member
    from oregon
    Messages: 8

    Hello out there in small block land. I would like to here some suggestions on building a 350 small block for horse power? or torque? or is there a happy medium ? I'm taking all suggestions would like a lot of input on this matter.I'm confussed from all reading on how to build one ,now would like to hear from those who have from trial and tried . Thanks for all your help .:help: .
     
  2. campi

    campi Member
    Messages: 53

    350 - 454 ?

    bossllu 4x4, i will give you my thoughts, just my opioin! first you did not say what your going to do with this truck? i asume your going to plow ? then I would go for low end torque! my 2 cents! what i did to my 350 1980 vintage, bored 30 over 355 now then normal rebuild, rv cam, 305 heads 64cc chambers alum intake , headers, 600 holley carb. puts out 300 hp, and around 310 lbs torque, if I remember did this 1996 . truck is 1980 chevy 1 ton 350 , th 400 trans , 411 rears , it will push some snow!!! there is a pic somewhere ( wyldman) posted for me! just did all body work done! every thing is rebuilt on truck I do a little bit each yr. good luck with your engine, I would stay with 350 ! just my 2 cents !!!!:nod: Campi !!!!!
     
  3. reallyrusty

    reallyrusty Member
    Messages: 71

    I would assume you want torque as this is going to be a truck engine? Maximum acceleration happens at the maximum part of the torque curve anyways. The higher that number the larger the kick. There are volumes out there on building small blocks and you can tailor them to your need quite easily. A good place to start on line is http://www.73-87.com/chp/gm350.htm. This is a reprint of the build up of a 350 crate engine from chevy high perfomance magazine that ended up yielding 400+ hp and lbs of torque. Also consider a set of rhodes lifters with a hotter cam. The lifters are designed to leak down at low rpm/idle to give smooth idle/ good mpg and lift up to the cam's advertised lift at rpm. The combo will produce a high flatter torque curve.
    hope this helps.
     
  4. campi

    campi Member
    Messages: 53

    reallyrusty I agree with you theres alot you can do with a 350 engine !! just wondreing how much $$$ he wants to spend ? and if he is going to plow with it why would he need 400 hp? also noted he wanted some simple mods!! maybe going to his engine up if theres not much wrong with it? just my 2 cents again!! Campi !!!
     
  5. reallyrusty

    reallyrusty Member
    Messages: 71

    The article ends with a 400+ hp/torque unit, but they take you step by step up to that level starting with the simple and giving you the dyno results. I don't know how deep his pockets are or what his ultimately use is as he doesn't say. But i agree with you that there is much that can be done and i think this is a one of the good places to start.
     
  6. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Campi's engine sounds pretty much like what you'd want in a truck.You need low RPM power and torque.

    The 305 heads on a 350 will give you about a 1 point jump in compression.The smaller valves and poor flow make these heads only good for low RPM stuff.They really start to choke above 4000,but you don't get there much with a truck motor,and they will make great low end torque.

    A good dual plane 4 bbl manifold will help too,just don't go too big.The Edelbrock performer is a good unit.A smaller 600 CFM vacuum secondary carb is the way to go.A double pumper should only be used on a manual trans truck towing heavy loads.Only time I'd go bigger on a truck is if your towing big loads at high RPM's (lots of rear gear),and you need more than 600 CFM.

    Headers with small primary tubes,and long collectors will help boost bottom end torque,and still support plenty of higher RPM flow if needed.Adding a large collector pipe,into a crossover tube will make for a good flowing system.Dual mufflers with smaller tails will keep the noise to a minimum,and still make good power.

    Using a 400 crank for the longer stroke will make more torque as well,but adds some cost to your rebuild.

    Cam selection is probably the most important.Choose the cam you want,or think you need,and then go one smaller.This will ensure you don't end up with"too much cam",and a motor than doesn't perform as expected.Your cam should be chosen to develop the power you need in the RPM range you need to use it.You can also advance the cam timing some to make a little more torque.

    The key to making the power,is tuning the motor after it's built.Cam timing,distributor advance curves,and carb setup are crucial to making it work as planned.I can spend more time tuning an engine than building one.Best part about this step is it doesn't cost much.An advance curve kit,some plugs,and a few jets is all you need.
     
  7. campi

    campi Member
    Messages: 53

    hello, wyldman, I do have dual plane alum. intake with holley 600 cfm vac seconderies, long headers not shorities!! then into 2and 1/2 dual exhaust, you are right 305 heads small valves , dont have to worry about 4000 rpms with 411 rears the truck is winding out about 70 mph really dont see that speed that often just to blow it out once in a while!!! probably going to redo engine after plow season, little smoke on start up probably seals uses about 1 ouart oil between oil changes 3,ooo miles. thinking about putting world products 202 heads on when i redo engine bigger valves little more beef on these heads over stock!! take care Campi !!!!!!
     
  8. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    I wouldn't waste your money on those heads.You don't need big valves or flow numbers on a truck motor.Keeps what you have,and just rebuild your heads,and use an umbrella type valve seal and good guides for better oil control.

    Spend your money elsewhere like an MSD or something.It will help power,driveability,and fuel mileage.
     
  9. campi

    campi Member
    Messages: 53

    thanks WYLDMAN, think i will take your advice , like you said use better seals!! every thing else is there !! you were on the money on all my other questions:salute: thanks again, Campi!!!!
     
  10. bossblu4x4

    bossblu4x4 Junior Member
    from oregon
    Messages: 8

    I knew that I came to the right site

    Gentleman, I knew that I have for come to one of the best site's on the internet. What I want is having agreat motor around 300 hp and at least 3 to 400 lbs of torque if that is possable?. I've got a 78 chevy 3/4 ton pickup with a 1 ton suspension and axles .I'd quess you would call it a 1 ton to make matters easier. For once in my life time I'd like to have a pickup with some attitude if you know what I mean?.The motor that I have is a 350 4bbl carb and 6 bolts on my exshaust if that means anything?. Any how thanks again for all your help . Boss Blu 4x4:cool:
     
  11. bossblu4x4

    bossblu4x4 Junior Member
    from oregon
    Messages: 8

    I knew that I came to the right site

    Gentleman, I knew that I have for come to one of the best site's on the internet. What I want is having agreat motor around 300 hp and at least 3 to 400 lbs of torque if that is possable?. I've got a 78 chevy 3/4 ton pickup with a 1 ton suspension and axles .I'd quess you would call it a 1 ton to make matters easier. For once in my life time I'd like to have a pickup with some attitude if you know what I mean?.The motor that I have is a 350 4bbl carb and 6 bolts on my exshaust if that means anything?. Any how thanks again for all your help . Boss Blu 4x4:cool:
     
  12. campi

    campi Member
    Messages: 53

    first thing, what do you use this truck for ?? what kind of shape is your engine in?? worth rebuilding it?? like wyldman said you can make hp and torque, many different ways! low end you can use rv cam dual plane intake, long headers, dual exaust, alot of options, or you can have one built to the specs you want , just a matter how much $$$$ you want to spend??? let me know how you make out? good luck. Campi !!!!
     
  13. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    FWIW
    For less than you can rebuild a small block, Goodwrench makes replacement motors for under 1500.00
    Dino
     
  14. campi

    campi Member
    Messages: 53

    plowking, i agree with you very good option, bossblu 4x4 wanted some simple mods to build torque, dont know how mush $$ or what he uses truck for? my truck engine will need to be gone over after plow season, but not to bad my engine was redone in 96 but i will use it again, 355 4 bolt high nickel content, plus i know what i have! let it snow!!! Campi !!!!
     
  15. uglytruk

    uglytruk Member
    Messages: 74

    What about 'National' rebuilt 350's, any good?

    I need a 350 for my '79 3/4 ton 2wd. The '96 rebuild blew a head gasket and it's all apart. Auto Zone wants $800 for a two bolt main, $900 for 4 bolt. Parts America gets $1150 from reconengines.com. I wonder why the difference? My local rebuilder does them with good quality pistons, RV cam, no cheap shoot.His price is $1050, seems reasonable, and he's been in the same spot for 22 years. He has a poor opinion of National 'production line' engines. You've probably heard about the good parts from the core making it back into the rebuild. Andrew

    :confused:
     
  16. ratlover

    ratlover PlowSite.com Addict
    from IL
    Messages: 1,325

    IMO part store motors are JUNK!

    title says it all.......

    parts america and auto zone motors are filled with junk parts and poor machining IMO
     
  17. nachoschevs

    nachoschevs Member
    Messages: 58

    I dont think you can go wrong with a new goodwrench engine. The fairlly low cost and a warenty are hard to pass up. If you go to a machine shop or do your own building, you may not get any guaranty. Also if you want some looks. They have some nice looking edelbrock crate engines to. You can get them with the aluminum parts in natural or polished. You cant beat the looks of them.
     
  18. JMR

    JMR Senior Member
    Messages: 567

    Being in the automotive repair business, I can testify that the cheap rebuilds are exactly that cheap. Stay away from junk, it will haunt in the long run. You get what you pay for. For reliability use a GM crate motor, a Jasper crate motor, or any good quality crate motor. The reliability and warranty will far out way the additional cost. If you know of a good machinist they can custom rebuild a motor to fit your needs. These days this will usually cost you more than a crate motor and won't carry as good a warranty.