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3 wire minute mount not working

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by bswalks, Nov 21, 2013.

  1. bswalks

    bswalks Member
    Messages: 59

    Hi guys.
    I hooked up my plow and everything worked, but slowly. After cycling through several times, up, down, & angling, it stopped working. All I'm getting is a clicking at the solenoid under the hood. Not very mechanically inclined, but does that mean the solenoid is working?
    I cleaned the connections on the pump motor & still the same. Haven't cleaned the ground at battery, but that's next.

    Am I heading in the right direction?
    Any advice would be appreciated.

    Thanks
     
  2. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    Well you need to ck the pwr out of the solenoid with a test light. Then your pwr and gnd @ the motor while trying to operate the plow
     
  3. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,611

    Get your connections clean first. If still doesn't work hook jumper cable to plow motor and touch to battery. STAY CLEAR OF PLOW. If motor runs, bad solenoid. If motor doesn't run, bad motor.
     
  4. bswalks

    bswalks Member
    Messages: 59

    So here's where I'm at.
    I cleaned all connections & still nothing. I was at parts store so I figured what the hell, I'll buy a new solenoid.
    Still got the same problem- solenoid clicking at each function of the fish stick.
    I then used the jumper cables, & the motor was definitely energized, (I could hear it) but plow did not move.
    So finally, I tried tapping the motor with a hammer, while someone used the fish stik. That worked. I get all functions, very slow but it works. I get no function if I don't tap the motor.
    Looks like I'll be buying a new motor this weekend.
    Thanks for the help.

    Does anyone have advice on how to remove the bolts so they don't break off in the valve body??
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2013
  5. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    Nope. Never ending battle. Rusted bolts in an increased housing
     
  6. 07PSDCREW

    07PSDCREW Senior Member
    Messages: 863

    Correct me if I'm wrong but don't the top nuts on top of the motor come off an the motor slides right off?? You might have to remove the mount bolts to slide it off though...
     
  7. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    Your correct. But those bolts go the length on the motor and they are regular steel and the pump housing is aluminum. Add water, electricity, maybe add a little salt and you got seized in bolts. No way that I know of to try and remove without breaking. Maybe cut the heads off, pull the motor off and try and lightly heat to get the bolts out
     
  8. bswalks

    bswalks Member
    Messages: 59

    I've replaced the motor before & not had an issue. Now that I read up on it, it sounds like breaking the bolts is inevitable, I hope that's not the case with this one.

    I'm not big on putting any heat on those bolts, but what about one of those inductor heating tools?
    That would be a lot more precise, & less risk of damaging the valve body.
     
  9. 07PSDCREW

    07PSDCREW Senior Member
    Messages: 863

    I just replaced the brushes on the motor that was on the EZV that I just sold. Two nuts came off the top and the motor case slid right off the long studs. The studs were wide open inside the case of the motor. I could see the only seizing being the nuts on top. Once the case was off, the armurature came right out. Putting new brushes in brought my pump motor back to life...
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2013
  10. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    Maybe It's a fisher thing. Western uses long bolts not studs
     
  11. bswalks

    bswalks Member
    Messages: 59

    Thanks for all the answers.
    Ended up hitting the bolt heads with an air chisel. The vibration worked great, the bolts backed right out.
    As an added bonus, it loosened up the corrosion inside the motor, plow works great now.