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2500HD's overheating

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by SnowMatt13, Jan 8, 2003.

  1. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,533

    For anyone with a 2001-03 2500HD that overheats.....
    mine did last year on the third time I plowed with the truck.
    I was lucky in a way my Chevy dealer(which I also work at) was still open. At first they thought thermostat, but a few weeks later my service manager was on-line with Chevy and found out they were coming out with a new fan clutch, because Chevy has found out about these trucks overheating, and it was a becoming somewhat common with these trucks. So I had mine replaced, have plowed snow 3 times since (including one storm this season where the truck plowed for 15 hrs. strainght) and the temp never even got to 210. I also did call WESTERN and they recommended as always, never over 45MPH and drive with blade angled as much as possible and as close to the ground as possible. Hope this helps. THINK SNOW
     
  2. johngus

    johngus Senior Member
    Messages: 117

    does this also pertain to the older trucks with 454's.just curious,mine does'nt overheat but it makes me worry running above 210.
     
  3. fastjohnny

    fastjohnny Senior Member
    Messages: 654

    97 454

    my truck runs a tick under 210 with or without the plow. I run with the blade angled. If I try to run straight, my temp keeps climbing.
     
  4. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,533

    This is for "new body style" Silverados especially the 2500HD and 3500 models. I had a 2000 K2500 and mine ran 210 on the nose, plow straight, angled, 10 degrees or 40 degrees. If your temp climbs much past 210 than do as they say and angle the blade. They probably made another fan clutch for the old body stye, but I'm not sure. The one for my new truck allows the fan to come on at an earlier temp to prevent overheating. Hope this helps:)
     
  5. gene gls

    gene gls PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 481

    I run with my hood poped up on the safty catch. Alows more air flow from the engin compartment.

    Gene
     
  6. fastjohnny

    fastjohnny Senior Member
    Messages: 654

    safety

    hope it never lets go on ya:nono:
     
  7. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    I hope you have windshield coverage,your gonna need it.I wouldn't trust the safety catch as far as I could throw it.

    Running with the hood slightly open will also HURT cooling effeciency,as it creates high pressure behind the rad,so the air doesn't flow threw it.Your trying to get air into the rad,not under the hood.
     
  8. JohnnyU

    JohnnyU 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,040

    Cowl hood?

    I think the best thing for that problem would be a cowl-style induction hood. Use the cowl scoop as a heat vent, so the hot air can get out as it passes through the radiator and engine compartment. And because I think they greatly enhance the appearance of the truck (always a plus) :drinkup:
     
  9. NoStockBikes!!

    NoStockBikes!! Senior Member
    Messages: 215

    I had a latched but not locked hood come open on my Grand Cherokee a few years back. Thank god I was only going about 35. Still bent the hinges, though.
     
  10. Snoworks

    Snoworks Senior Member
    Messages: 466

    I have two 1998 Trucks with 454's in them. Both run, on avr., at 200 to 205 deg. These #'s are with the plows on.

    Chuck B.
     
  11. WNY PAT

    WNY PAT Member
    Messages: 31

    Dealer Info

    I have a 2500HD w/ 6.0L and auto....


    Talked to my dealer today and had them check for a TSB on overheating. They tell me no TSB and only one part # for fan clutch so they don't think anything new is out there. One thing a tech did tell me was that the temp gauge that controls fan clutch is behind the radiator and that having the plow raised while driving does two things:

    1. Blocks proper airflow.

    2. Creates a void (or vacuum) behind the plow that creates further problems.

    He recommended installing an aux fan (about $150 - $200).... I said I was hoping for GM to come up with a fix / update since the truck was sold with the "Plow Prep Package"... seems kind of silly to have to drop more $$$ to make if function properly with a plow on the truck. I just can't believe there isn't a way to adjust the fan clutch to kick in 30 or 35 degrees sooner.... then it would be fine...... would never get past 3/4 or a bit less.... and I wouldn't worry so much.....
     
  12. John DiMartino

    John DiMartino PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,154

    Guys it isnt tragic to hit 225 or even a tick higher ,with the GM trucks built since the mid eightys.Its not going to kill your engine,the same engines in our trucks are put in cars with fans that dont kick on til 238 degrees in some cases.If the engine is pinging,id be concerned,otherwise dont worry about it.As soon as you slow down and get to an account the temp will be back at 200 or less in under 5 minutes.Some GM clutch fans do not kick in until 240 degrees.My 89 GMC2500 has hit 230+ while transporting with the plow since day one,its 14 yrs old and has 160K on it,still original motor,it hasnt hrut it one bit.If the temp is still climbing at 240+ id slow it down,the clutch fan should come on at that point,and get real loud,and cool things down real quick.this is just my opinion,but i feel there is more damage done to your engine by a cold startup than running at 220-240 between accounts.Just keep up on your maintenance of the cooling system,and the motor oil.One last thing if the truck is 3 yrs old or older,you'd be suprised at the amount of debris that gets stuck in the condensor,and radiator fins,i pull the top shroud off,and blow them out with compressed air,if that isnt enough a mild powerwashing,with detegent does the trick,they run a lot cooler when the fins are clear.Gms with 6.5 diesels and/or factory trans coolers are usually plugged up by 5 yrs old ,I remove the grille(takes under 5 minutes),then unbolt the coolers,slide them forward,and blow out the cooler,then the condensor behind the cooler.
     
  13. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,533

    overheat

    WNY Pat- the dealership that I work at, my service manager found the new clutch fan on closed circuit Chevy t.v. (I think) anyway he's out of town until tomorrow(fri.) Anyway, I'll get the new part number for you from him. or i'll check my reciept and get the # from there. hopefull you can take the number to your chevy dlr and they can go from there. There is a new fan clutch, I'm sure because it's in my truck, or at least they told me it was!!!!:)
     
  14. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,533

    Also Pat... you're right, you bought the vehicle with plow prep. If they advise extra cooling fan or etc, let them pay for it!! Also it wouldn't hurt to call chevy and let them know if it's overheating just in case something happens as a result of it after your warranty expires.:drinkup:
     
  15. WNY PAT

    WNY PAT Member
    Messages: 31

    Part #

    Snowmatt,

    Thanks for the info... if you can get that part # I would really appreciate it!!
     
  16. WNY PAT

    WNY PAT Member
    Messages: 31

    Here's Some Information From Dodge

    I'm sure this has been covered here before.... but.... maybe GM will come out with a fix for our trucks sometime soon....


    TSB 07-05-97


    High Coolant Temperatures Or Overheating With Snowplow Attached

    Site
    _Sponsor:
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Date: Nov.14,1997
    Models: 1994 - 1997 (BR) Ram Trucks
    NOTE: THIS BULLETIN PERTAINS TO 1500 SERIES RAM TRUCKS RATED AT 6400 GVW AND 2500 SERIES RAM TRUCKS RATED AT 8800 GVW.
    NOTE: also applies to those WITH plows and NOT AHD
    Symptoms:
    Engine overheats or exhibits high coolant temperatures during highway operation with a snowplow blade attached to the vehicle.
    NOTE: THIS CONDITION CAN ALSO OCCUR ON VEHICLES THAT HAVE BEEN FITTED WITH SNOWPLOWS WITHOUT SNOWPLOW PREP PACKAGE AHD.
    Discussion:
    If a customer describes the above condition, perform the Repair Procedure.
    Parts:
    1 ___52028837AA ____Fan Drive, Viscous
    Repair:
    This bulletin involves replacing the viscous fan drive with an improved part for snowplow applications.
    NOTE: INSTALLATION OF THE IMPROVED VISCOUS FAN DRIVE WILL CAUSE THE ENGINE COOLING FAN TO OPERATE MORE OFTEN.
    1. ___Replace the fan drive with p/n 52028837AA. Follow the applicable procedures in the service manual for the vehicle you are working on.
    2. ___After installing the new fan drive, start the engine and operate it at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes to pump fluid into the new drive assembly.
    Note:
    New fan will operate more often than previous fan (different temperature sensitive fluid in the fan clutch.)
    Policy: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Several people have reported that this procedure helps cure overheating when towing._ Here is an example:
    Subject:__ DiRT: Fan Clutch Report
    Date:______ Tue, 08 Sep 1998 22:14:49
    From:_____ Jim Jones <nt7t@sns-access.com>
    To:_________ DiRT
    TSB 07-05-97 addresses a replacement viscous fan clutch for models built prior to 4/25/97 that over heat with a snowplow installed._ The replacement clutch was suppose to operate more often that the standard clutch (different temperature sensitive fluid in the fan clutch)._ Since my rig runs hot when towing up hills in excess of 6%, I thought that the replacement clutch (part # 52028837AA) might help my situation.
    As usual the dealer was no help at all._ The CC customer number was a different story._ In about 10 minutes they were able to tell me that the replacement clutch would fit my 95 2500HD 4x4 with a 360 (gas) and that it would probably help me._ So back to the dealer._ The dealer was unable to identify the part number in the TSB although they were able to verify that the Portland, Or. warehouse had a whole bunch of them. The standard clutch was back ordered._ So back to CC customer number and so on._ After several phone calls and four trips to the dealer I had my clutch.
    I tested the replacement clutch after I installed it using the test in the service manual._ It engages fully at 140 degrees._ This compares to a stated spec of 165 to 180 degrees for the standard clutch. The standard clutches that I have tested seem to be biased toward the 180 degree end of that range._ When the replacement clutch came on it came on hard with a nice roar._ No stuttering.
    I was able to road test it last week on a trip down I-5 to Ashland, OR._ Only a few 3 mile 6% grades on that route but the outside temp was well over 90 degrees and I left the a/c on full blast. The engine temp went less than half way between the 200 degree mark and the max normal mark on the gauge (probably less than 220 degrees) When the fan came on it was positive and I could see it pull the engine temp down.
    With the standard fan in 75 degree weather, I would have pulled those grades with the a/c off and would have reached the top with the temp gauge at max normal.
    The best part...the replacement clutch is $148 as compared to $200 for the standard clutch._ BTW the same clutch seems to fit all engines (Cummins, 360, V-10).
    I'm impressed so far._ But as in all things, I suspect that mileage will vary.
    Jim Jones
    nt7t@sns-access.com

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Thanks to Bob Bergevin and Barry Drodge for supplying this TSB information
     
  17. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,533

    WNY Pat.... I checked my reciept from my replacement of my fan clutch and this is the part number listed on it. GM# 22149894.
    let me know if they say this is the one already existing. good luck:)
     
  18. WNY PAT

    WNY PAT Member
    Messages: 31

    Thanks Snowmatt

    Thanks for the part ##!! I appreciate it!!!!
     
  19. porkhead1

    porkhead1 Member
    Messages: 70

    My suggestion would be to get rid of the clutch-fan. When the clutch disengages, the air flow thru the radiator is what keeps the fan turning. With the plow blade on, you have limited air flowing thru the radiator. The clutch fan is nice for getting a few extra "free" horsepower from the engine by not having it drive the fan, but look at the price you're paying for it.... If your engine temp. is running 230+, imagine what your transmission oil temp. must be....:eek: before long, you're goin to be buying a new trans. despite what your warranty says......warranty work is still at the discretion of the Service Manager & District Service Rep. who has to approve it. IMO, once you bring your truck in for a tranny. & they see that plow setup........your warranty just went out the window :( My '78 Chevy 400 smblk. had factory air /w a clutch-fan, I took it off & replaced it with a flex-type fan ( it was a direct replacement blade from 1970 1/2 350 LT1 Camaro) it worked great. I also installed the biggest aux. trans. oil cooler I could find to help keep the trans. oil temp down.

    Good luck...
     
  20. silveradoatv

    silveradoatv Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    Is this clutch fan a warranty item or is it a bigger and better add-on?