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2500 HD wheel bearing

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by flykelley, Jan 28, 2011.

  1. flykelley

    flykelley 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,124

    Hi Guys
    What is the going price to have a wheel bearing replaced in my 05 2500 HD? Its starting to make some noise. Is this too bad a job to do yourself? Im pretty handy with the wrencks just have never done anything with front end parts and such.

    Thanks Mike
     
  2. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    if you can remove the brakes then 1/2 way there.

    need like a around a 36mm if i recall socket for the center axle stub nut.

    then basic tools.

    the biggest problem is it the hub/bearing body is rusted in the knuckle. can be a bit tricky to get out.

    reinstall is all the same but DO NOT use a impact to install the center axle hub nut. it will damage the bearing inside. and there is a specific tourqe spec. if i recall in the 175-200 ft lb range but its been a long time since i did one. so best look it up.

    but ya if your good with basic repairs save your self a tone of cash on this fix.
     
  3. jklawn&Plow

    jklawn&Plow Senior Member
    Messages: 469

    You can do it its plug and play. I did my 1500 with 6-point box wrenches and a hammer-can't remember if I used heat. Since then I bought a compressor but not sure if it has enough power.
     
  4. stacks04

    stacks04 Senior Member
    from ct
    Messages: 119

    Pretty easy job if your at all confident in your skill. You hardest spot can be the bolts holding the caliper bolts to the spindle. They are loctited and if they havent been out before your arms will not thank you that evening.
     
  5. BigLou80

    BigLou80 Senior Member
    Messages: 558

    like sweetK30 said, if you can take out your brakes your half way there. I think it took less then two beers for my buddy to change mine out
     
  6. StratfordPusher

    StratfordPusher Senior Member
    Messages: 951

    Buy good bearings

    Learned the hard way that there are many different bearing suppliers, buy bearings with a 3 year warranty, These run about a 100.00 more each then offshore junk that lasts a season or two...

    Goodluck
     
  7. 70monte

    70monte Senior Member
    Messages: 468

    Its not a bad job if you don't have any rusted in bolts. I had one on my 98 K3500 that would not come out for anything. I ended up having to cut and melt the head of the bolt off and then use a big punch and hammer and a hub puller to get the assembly off. It was a giant PITA and not something I would want to do again. I ended up ruining the boot on the cv shaft as well from the torch so I had to replace that as well.

    Wayne
     
  8. RBRONKEMA GHTFD

    RBRONKEMA GHTFD 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,592

    I did one on a buddies truck. I had to use a fatmax crow bar and put it inbetween the studs of the old hub to get the big nut off the CV shaft so the bear would come off. It wasn't a bad job at all. I am going to do mine in the summer. I think my drivers side is going. It has a slight hum to it when I am crusing down the road. Wheres a good place to get one? I am not going to get a cheap auto zone one, but I really don't want to buy a ACdelco one either. I mean I will, but would rather not spend that much money.
     
  9. 06Sierra

    06Sierra PlowSite.com Addict
    from Maine
    Messages: 1,329

    Autoparts123.com has a good price on Timken bearings.
     
  10. RBRONKEMA GHTFD

    RBRONKEMA GHTFD 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,592

    Are the bearings themselves anygood?
     
  11. 06Sierra

    06Sierra PlowSite.com Addict
    from Maine
    Messages: 1,329

    I have always heard Timken was one of the best.
     
  12. tuney443

    tuney443 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,847

    I've seen some Timkens lately made in China so be careful.GM Parts Direct has good USA made ones very reasonable.
     
  13. Newdude

    Newdude Senior Member
    Messages: 878


    Duramax Store has them cheap. They list that Timken makes the factory hubs (I believe AC Delco as well). Both authentic Timkens and AC Delcos are usa made.

    http://dmaxstore.com/index.php?main...ducts_id=254&zenid=29gftj6soqlqa3m8aje9thp5g7

    http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3753373&postcount=382
     
  14. IMAGE

    IMAGE Sponsor
    Messages: 1,741

    Front wheel bearing on a 05 2500hd are easy. Did one in about 20 minutes on my 05 2500hd last month. That was on a hoist and with good tools. But its not hard at all.
     
  15. RacingZR

    RacingZR Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 399

    Consider looking up Dearborn Axle for wheel bearings. Made in the USA, put one my Dodge,- passengers side. They were cheap too. Can't say if they are goo dor bad, no issue yet though.
     
  16. 70monte

    70monte Senior Member
    Messages: 468

    I used Timkin on mine and I got them at Autozone. I'm pretty sure they were made in the USA but this was almost two years ago.

    Wayne
     
  17. jklawn&Plow

    jklawn&Plow Senior Member
    Messages: 469

    I got a left Timkin from Napa and a right from Autozone. Both were about $125.

    70Monte
    I had same issue due to the fact that I couldn't hear the problem until I saw sparks flying out while plowing/driving. Ended up grinding all 3 (1500) bolt heads off the knuckle and needed new CV.
    Got educated in it though.
     
  18. damian

    damian Senior Member
    Messages: 330

    dont cheap out on the parts,hub and bearings vary in quality the locals offer low cost china or high cost ,check dealer they surprise me sometimes.
     
  19. 70monte

    70monte Senior Member
    Messages: 468

    The Timkin assembly for mine was about $250 from autozone and that was with a 10% discount.

    My bearing assembly didn't actually go out but my brake caliper locked up and caused my hub to get extremely hot to the point that I couldn't get the wheel off without hammering it off. Since I had to replace the rotor which was also shot and you have to seperate the hub assembly from the rotor, I wanted to be safe rather than sorry and just replaced the bearing assembly. I replaced the other side also just because the mileage and the fact that that rotor was also shot. I had about $950 in the front end when I got done. New rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, both hub assemblies, and one cv shaft. Last year I had to have the idler arm and one balljoint replaced as well. Needless to say, I've spent quite a bit of money on this thing since I got it.

    Wayne
     
  20. sdplowing

    sdplowing Senior Member
    Messages: 108

    On Diesel Place there is a step by step walk through with pictures. It tells you what tools you need, the torque specs, and how many beers to have when done.Thumbs Up