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2500/3500 Diesel/Gas

Discussion in 'Ram Trucks' started by HD61CUIN, Jul 16, 2005.

  1. HD61CUIN

    HD61CUIN Senior Member
    Messages: 173

    I have been interested in the 2005 2500 with the CTD. Looking here and also at the plow mfr websites it looks like a 2500 should not be used with a plow and diesel. I have noticed many people complaining of sag. How is the 3500 with diesel in regards to this? In light of this I also started looking at the HEMI in the 2500. What is the main difference between the 2500/3500. I have also been interested in the manual over the auto.

    Comments welcome
     
  2. JRKRACE

    JRKRACE Senior Member
    Messages: 172

    You sure you want a manual tranny to plow with? :eek:
     
  3. T-MAN

    T-MAN PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,363

    The main difference between the 2500 and 3500 front end is nothing. Same truck up front. If you have the money get the diesel, I have a Hemi plows great but not a Cummins :)
    Dont sweat the plowing with a diesel, you will be glad you got it when the fuel bills start rolling in for plowing.
    Todd
     
  4. HD61CUIN

    HD61CUIN Senior Member
    Messages: 173

    I have been driving a manual for a long time. I also read that the Jacobs J-Brake cannot be installed on the Auto. That is why I have been wanting the 6spd HD. I have been looking at getting a V-plow and that is where the plow mfr's say no. The diesel adds alot of weight combined with the extra weight of a V-plow. I thought the 3500 had a stronger spring or something. I looked at the Dodge website and all the plow prep package adds is a bigger alternator and some skid plates. One would think it gave you a bigger spring. Unless the plow prep is different for 2500 gas vs diesel.
     
  5. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    the front ends suspensions are the same on the 2500 and 3500's, the only differences are the rear axles (dana 70's versus dana 80's) and brakes (in the rear). Springs are the same, frame is the same, etc. Plow prep is the same for both models, the springs are the same too- a CTD weighs the same in the 3/4 ton as it does in the 1 ton, right? (they are not useing any different engine so the springs needed to support it are no different.) Remember this is not a gas engine- the CTD weighs neerly half a ton more than a 350 V8- there's not much free gross weight in the front end left to play with.

    1st buy the CTD over the hemi. You're gong to save a fortune in fuel alone to pay for it with the CTD getting 16 (4:10) to 24(3:56) versus the Hemi getting 14 If you;re lucky.

    2nd if you want the manual get it. There is NO problem plowing with a standard, only people who don;t know how and people who can;t multitask.
    I learned to plow in a standard and wish my Ram was a standard every day. Much stronger tranny than the auto.

    The V blades are alot heavier than a standard straight blade and are unnecessary on more vehicles than plowers would admit. Look at the FAWR and compair the blades you are looking at for weight. You can plow a straight blade no problem, possibly a Blizzard (I believe they are lighter than a Western V).
    The problems that arise from overloading the front axle are premature bearing failure, steering box failure, premature track bar wear, premature ball joint failure, and premature tie rod failure. You won't snap an axle tube (unless youre driveing stupid), you'll just wear the front end out quick, possilby in under 2 seasons. Seen it happen with older Rams and the owners just ***** the truck is crap instead of looking at the fact they have overloaded it and beat the hell out of it by doing so. Happens to ANY truck, just that the other Big 2 diesels are light weight engine designs compaired to our CTD.

    and yes, an exhaust brake CAN be installed on an auto, but there has to be modifications done to the auto to allow the brake to work effectivly, like hard wire the lockup clutch, ****** down shifting, etc. This modification necessity can create situations to easily destroy the tranny if the driver forgets the clutch is locked up, for example.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2005
  6. HD61CUIN

    HD61CUIN Senior Member
    Messages: 173

    So to have a V plow I pretty much need to runs a gasser...

    I will however disgree with you on a v-plow. Depending on the type of plowing you this can be very beneficial. Residential I would think not, but the type that I will be doing are large semi loading/unloading terminals. We are currently running 1 front end loader at the site with the plows making windrows. Toward the end of the storm, the only thing left is moving these windrows and a v plow comes in handy, although time consuming.

    I would like a diesel, but I will have to check diesel prices and sources beforehand. Right now diesel is .20 more expensive in my area (south suburbs) I do not think I need the 4.10 gearing though as I do not regulary tow. My current 04 Hemi QC/SB 4x4 has the optional 3.92 and I do like that.

    I know what you mean about people not being able to multitask, I have been driving a manual since I was 8 working a farm tractor, so over 20 years. My current Ram is the first auto I have had in 5 years. Sometimes auto is nice, but when it comes to altering it for a j-brake, having a manual is easier.
     
  7. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    Yeah, really to avoid the overloading issues you need the gasser for a V blade.

    A v blade can be helpful, but not many people use them around here. The weight doesn't justify it for me in any case. Most guys I have encountered with them think they save more than they actually do useing one. If it works for you that's all that matters. Consider the other options, like a blizzard, or a different straight type blade for weight for diesel versus gas.

    Remember the cost of diesel versus the cost of gas is not the only issue- the miles per gallon difference will eat that up in no time.