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2010 Diesel - Maintenance Myself?

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by LB1234, Dec 20, 2010.

  1. LB1234

    LB1234 Member
    Messages: 91

    Here is the situation...in the past I have performed many basic maintenance tasks on my previous trucks (all gassers). Oil and filter changes, brakes, and other easy items. any repair items where taken into my local mechanic (whom I like a lot). So my question is with the new pruchase of my F350 diesel, should I perform the oil and filter changes myself, go to the dealership, or use my mechanic. I realize the oil changes at the dealership are going to be astronomical compared to doing it myself BUT i figure if I can afford it it may be better off in the long run to have the dealership perform all maintenance services. That way when I turn around to sell it (trade it in really) I will get maximum for it cause of a solid record of maintenance services. AND I'm thinking if I have the dealership perform all the work they may be a little more leanant (sp?) when it comes to warranty work...obviously if needed.

    Just looking for opinions on the subject and your thoughts/opinions on it.

    oh ya, an added question, how important is it to use ford geniune parts (filters, oil, etc.) if/when performing your own work? My GMs I always used the local NAPA or Auto Parts stores and got aftermarket maintenance items. Not sure if its more critical for a diesel engine to utilize genuine parts...there advertisments sure do make it seem that way.

    FYI, I am a little nervous about voiding the 5 year 100k powertrain warranty on my engine. The plan is to trade the truck in with the engine warranty still in effect while purchase an extended bumper to bumper warrant which gets me to 5 years 100k on the bumper to bumper...FYI its a 3700 dollar option for the ext warranty due to commericial plates and snow plow equiped.

    thx again for all of your feedback...to this and other previous threads I have started.:waving:
     
  2. RacingZR

    RacingZR Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 398

    I know very little about the newer diesels but a lot of folks on here suggest using OEM filters in the newer diesels. But you can get Motorcraft filters even at Wal-Mart for some vehicles.
    You can keep your own maintenance records, just hang on to all the receipts too. Know the details of the 5 yr./100k warranty and decide from there.
     
  3. rstan2010

    rstan2010 Member
    from Troy MI
    Messages: 96

    This is the 6.4 diesel. Maintenance on these is very important. I just bought one myself and been doing a lot of reading on powerstroke.org. I would recommend changing the oil and filter at 5000 miles/200hrs and the fuel filters every other oil change. Using the motorcraft filters is a must for these engines because the aftermarket ones are junk and wont do the job. The oil is your choice but I use the motrcraft oil and has been good. Also I would recommend doing this all yourself because you can get the oil and filter from walmart very cheap and the dealer wants an arm and a leg for an oil change. Keep up on your maintenance with this engine and you should be golden. Good luck.

    Also I want to add using a cetane booster every fill up. These fuel systems are very sensitive and one bad batch of fuel and you could have some major engine problems.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2010
  4. cotter

    cotter Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 182

    I have a 95 7.3 and only use Motorcraft filters and Shell Rotella-T oil (as recommended by the big Ford truck dealer in town) and I always do it myself. Below is a pic of the head when I had to change the under valve cover harness and the valve cover gasket at 205,000 miles. I think I will continue with Rotella-T. My usual schedule is buy the oil and filter @ 3000 miles, say darn I really need to change it at 4000 miles and chnge it at 5000 miles. The newer engines might be different on the schedule.
    Chad

    Head.jpg
     
  5. PLM-1

    PLM-1 Senior Member
    Messages: 424

    Check the specifics on that extended warranty. On a lot of them, if you put a plow on it, it's void. Mine was on mine and the dealer KNEW exactly what was going on it when I got home. Waste of almost $3000. I, of course, didn't find this out until I was going to use it right before it expired when they sent the adjuster out to the shop.
     
  6. LB1234

    LB1234 Member
    Messages: 91


    No its definately covered. They charge an additional amount (~$700) to cover the truck with the plow...the dealer specifically asked me about the plow so we didn't have any hiccups later on when I brought it in and they saw the plow mounts/harness. Of course the 700 is an addition to the few thousand more because the truck is registered commercially. Gotta love it. The commercials say "built ford tough" but as soon as you register it to be used "tough" they slap some ridiculous fee on. LOL they get cha comin and goin.
     
  7. LB1234

    LB1234 Member
    Messages: 91

    well after reading a bunch of your posts (thx again). I'm thinking the way to go is change my own oil WITH ford genuine parts. hold onto receipts and keep excellent records.


    So now we move onto my next question. Where can I find out where to go to see how to change the oil. I know I know...sounds really silly. But I will admit I'm a little intimidated due to there being two oil filters located somewhere on top of the engine...one appears to be buried under the other (if that makes any sense). Again, appreciate the helpThumbs Up
     
  8. LB1234

    LB1234 Member
    Messages: 91


    The schedule in my manual is oil/filter every 10k for normal use. HOWEVER, because I'm idling a lot, pulling trailers, snow plowing, AND may be using 5% biodiesel...its upped to every 5000 miles, 200 engine hours, or three months...whichever occurs first. I currently have 2500 miles and about 125 engine hours in about seven weeks...so I think two hundred hours will come close. Although business is really slowing down now and I don't expect to be using her that much (except for snow of course) in the upcoming months. So looks like I'm right on target for 18k miles a year...so expect four to five oil changes a year.
     
  9. swtiih

    swtiih PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,179

    Some may disagree with me but I would be changing the oil right now. I also would not go 10k miles between oil changes. Even with oil being around $3 a quart and the cost of oil filters high I would change more often then this schedule. Manufacturer can't void your warranty if dealers don't change your oil. You or mechanics can change but it is a very good idea to keep your receipts
     
  10. Ultra Duty

    Ultra Duty Member
    from NE OHIO
    Messages: 65

    I hate to say it, but Go Wal-Mart, Get (3) 5qt jugs of Motorcraft 15-40 Powerstroke oil, around $14 a jug and filter is $18.00. Unless you have a programmer on it and have turned off the Regen, change it every 5000mi. Fuel Filters ever 10k. I have used Hastings filters and Motorcraft. appear to be made by same people
     
  11. qualitycut

    qualitycut PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 24,227

    I will pay the extra 25 dollars to have them do it, check over other fluids top of washer fluid and dispose of the oil for me. Also first oil change I ogt done at 2500 now I go 5000. Fuel filters are a big deal on these trucks I get one every 10,000 max.
     
  12. LB1234

    LB1234 Member
    Messages: 91


    I'm a little confused....Are you suggesting changing the oil every 2500 miles or 5k miles?
     
  13. swtiih

    swtiih PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,179

    I am saying to change it now at 2500 because it is a brand new motor and that is what is on it. I would have changed it sooner but it is what it is. An oil change is still one of the cheapest maintenances on a motor. Especially an $8000 deisel. I personally would not go past around 4000 miles between oil changes.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2010
  14. BossPlow2010

    BossPlow2010 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,032


    You don't buy car parts at the same place you buy milk! :nono:

    just take it to an oil change place. Or a dealer ship is fine. Labor should be approx 90$/hr.

    OEM FTW.
     
  15. Blk04Snake

    Blk04Snake Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    I have a 2010 F350 6.4 diesel, and like said above, don't go by the Ford published intervals. 5000 for oil/filter and 10,000 for fuel filters. Only use OEM Ford/Motorcraft filters or RACOR (they are the supplier to Ford) you have 2 filters for fuel, one at the engine and one under the truck which is a PITA to change. Make sure you document all your service in case you need warranty repair because Ford will void it in a heartbeat if you have a fuel system failure and you don't have records of maintenance using OEM or equivalent parts.
     
  16. RacingZR

    RacingZR Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 398

    To each their own. No diesels here but I do my own maintenance. I don't buy junk Fram filters from Wal-Mart but when I can buy a 5 Qt. jug of Mobil 1 synthetic for the same price as a 4 Qt. jug at an auto parts store, I opt for the free quart.
    If you're going to use oil changing stations, you better find one you trust and be very clear on what type of oil and filter you want.
    My girlfriend and my daughter can change their own oil, ANYONE can do it. Do it yourself and keep good records.
     
  17. rob_cook2001

    rob_cook2001 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,181

    We have 2 6.4's and do all service our selves. Both trucks got the first oil change at 1k miles, then again at 2500, then at 5k. Now We change the oil ever 5k miles, I would only go by the hours if you Idle a ton. I change the fuel filters at 15k, changed the first time at 10k and they looked great so I switched to every 15k. I would not bring it to ford and sure as hell don't bring it to a quick lube place unless you know and trust them. I have seen those guys F*** up so much stuff. As far as Filters, for 3 years every oil change I sent samples in to get tested, and would alternate filters (ford, then Fram, then napa). And comparing the results I could see no difference in the filters. I have a few friends that rag on fram/napa filters every chance they get but never give me a honest reason they don't like them.
    Don't let it intimidate you, the maintenance is not that bad and I actually enjoy doing it.
    Robert
     
  18. Blk04Snake

    Blk04Snake Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    You actually bring up a good point on the Motorcraft vs. Fram vs. Napa.

    For the usual spin on filters I wouldn't touch a Fram with a 10ft pole. As far as Motorcraft for the spin-on filters, they are made by Purolator. For NAPA they are made by Wix.

    For the diesel cartridge filter on the 6.4 the OEM filters are made by Racor as are the fuel filters. I've sampled the Fram filter for the 6.4 and they must get from Racor as well and rebox because it's identical right down to the patent number stamped on it.

    I also know that for diesel fuel filters that Wix reboxes Racor filters, so it's likely that if you go to NAPA you'll get the equivalent to the OEM there as well. I'm not certain on the oil filter though. Considering Walmart has the best price for the Motorcraft oil filter, and the Fram, and they are identical, just get it there.
     
  19. rob_cook2001

    rob_cook2001 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,181

    I have noticed that with the fram and ford oilfilters to lol. The napa filter is a little different and comes with a new cap.... for 1/2 the cost of the ford filter at wallyworld lol.
    Now i have only heard one true horror story about a oil/fuel filter and it happend to a guy I sled pull with. His fram filter on his 93 cummins blew up. It took 5 weeks and some persistant calling but fram actually paid him for a BRAND NEW motor from cummins!!!!! I couldnt believe they did that for a truck with 200k miles. Blew my mind.
     
  20. RacingZR

    RacingZR Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 398

    For what it's worth, some of my mechanical engineering buddies did a study on oil filters in college.
    I'm not sure how they did it or the details on it but the results I do remember Napa Gold/K&N about equal, Napa economy third, Purolator fourth and Fram last. They didn't test any OEM filters.
    I think the advice to go to an oil change station is about the worst advice I have heard yet.