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(2) 35 back up lights, realy?

Discussion in 'Strobe Lighting' started by cameo89, Jan 1, 2011.

  1. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    I've been using 2 35 flood lights as back up lights for yrs, hooked directly into my reverse power feed, so they only come on when truck is in reverse! Question is: I've never used a relay, should I? I don't believe I've ever had an issue running this way!
     
  2. Yooper75

    Yooper75 Senior Member
    Messages: 324

    I had that set up on one of my pick ups and never had a problem but you should probably run a relay.
     
  3. Rc2505

    Rc2505 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,245

    I have done it your way for years untill I started reading about the nightmereish problems other people have had. I decided to run everything through relays about 3 years ago. I haven't had any problems either way, but I figure relays are cheap, and it's a little extra insurance for me.
     
  4. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    If it don't snow, im gonna wire up a 30amp relay, also while im thinking about it, my back up lights are mounted to my spreader, so there for when spreader's not attached all I have for back ups are stock, I have a new pair to mount to my truck/bumper for when spreader is not on. But with all of the extra electrical s**h I have wired, my alt.can't handle running 4 back up lights(when spreader is on) so question is: I would like to make it so I have bumper lights but when spreader is on they shut off once I plug in my spreader I only have 2 lights! How would I go about doing this? Sorry if this is confusing.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2011
  5. Yooper75

    Yooper75 Senior Member
    Messages: 324

    I would wire the light sets individually on a switch with a relay so you can shut them off when you don't need them.
     
  6. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,344

    My back up lights are on a relay. This has been the best thing I have done to my truck even compared to my stobe lights and my headache rack build.
    T.J.
     
  7. JeepTJ

    JeepTJ Senior Member
    Messages: 225

    Recently, I was rewiring my twin 55 watt rear flood lights to be able to plug into the trailer plug. They were/still are running through a relay, which is triggered by the reverse lights. While trying to figure out the wiring scheme, I connected one flood light directly to the reverse light circuit. I was surprised to see that both the flood light and reverse lights were noticeably duller than when connected through the relay (power for the floods normally comes directly from the battery).

    While it may be "OK" to power your rear aux lights directly from the reverse light power wire (I wouldn't), you may not be getting the full illumination from both the aux lights and your original reverse lights.

    Fran
     
  8. pohouse

    pohouse Senior Member
    Messages: 322

    I would like to do this. Do you have a schematic or diagram where you use the reverse circuit as the trigger? Thanks!!!!
     
  9. skidooer

    skidooer Senior Member
    Messages: 248

  10. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    Never really used relays, but after all the reading I've been doing over the past snow free days. For $3 im gonna go buy a handful for some re-wiring.

    Now on another note, a little off topic.
    I have a code3 mx7000 strobe bar, I have both sides wired together to (1) 30amp switch, my switch does get hot when I run them for 30mins or more! Would a relay help on this situation?
     
  11. RBRONKEMA GHTFD

    RBRONKEMA GHTFD 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,592

    Yes a relay would help. Feed the relay with a 10 ga wire and fuse it with a 30 amp fuse. I would break the bar up and put different strobes on different switches, that would also help too. If you decide to go that route use a relay for each switch.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2011
  12. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    Ok thanks, I now need to figure out how to set it up, because it is a 8 strobe bar, 4 left and 4 right. I would like to do maybe 4 front and 4 rear, that way I don't have to use the full bar at all times. Idk maybe 2 front and 2 rear on one switch and same for the other switch. But I did go buy 3 relays this morning so im gonna take advantage of the sunshine and get to work...thanks again
     
  13. RBRONKEMA GHTFD

    RBRONKEMA GHTFD 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,592

    If it has intersection sweeps and was mine I would adjust the intersection sweeps so they are at a 45 degree angle and remove the power wire for the motor so they don't sweep anymore, then Then I would adjust the alley lights so they are adjusted towards the back at a 45 degree angle. I would then wire both alleys, the sweeps and front take downs on 1 switch. I would then wire the lower halogen flashers on one with the rear strobes, and then the front strobes on 1 swtich. Now you can wire it in any combo you want, all you would need is more relays.

    Make sure to run sperate power wires for each relay too and fuse each one with 30 amps. Don't use the glass fuses. Oh and you know how much we all like pictures too. Hint Hint. HAHA
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2011
  14. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    Ok... I have a full mx7000 8 strobes, 1 high speed rotator, 2 amber sweeps, 2 alleys on seperate switchs, 2 front work lights one one switch and I do have takedowns 2 front 4 rear, but I don't use them nor do I have them even hooked up. It seemed that the takedowns always took such a large draw of current.

    But I did find out today that one of my dual batterys was bad and killing my other battery, so that may be an issue that has haunted me, so now that I have replaced the bad batt. With a new one, maybe I can run more stuff with out any problems.

    I will try to take some pics and post! Hint hint
     
  15. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    Heres a few of my lightbar

    truck.plow.salter 005.jpg

    truck.plow.salter 007.jpg

    truck.plow.salter 011.jpg

    truck.plow.salter 019.jpg
     
  16. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    My switch panel and strobe power supply, amp and power inverter
    Switch #1-hide aways
    2-upper strobes
    3-center rotator
    4-Sweeps
    5-work lights
    6-left alley
    7-right alley
    8-salter vibrator
    9-salter spot light
    10-back-up alarm

    Wires are still kind of a mess, I just ordered a different strobe supply (Whelen isp-188) to replace the (Whelen ups-188c)I will zip tie all wires once install is complete

    truck.plow.salter 015.jpg

    truck.plow.salter 017.jpg

    truck.plow.salter 009.jpg

    truck.plow.salter 010.jpg
     
  17. cameo89

    cameo89 Senior Member
    Messages: 669

    And my lights on my salter, 2- back ups, 1-spot light for spreading, 2- 4led running lights(red) back up camera, and not shown I wired up a 12volt light inside the hopper for night use, plus if I leave it on it makes for a huge red running light.lol

    truck.plow.salter 001.jpg

    truck.plow.salter 002.jpg

    truck.plow.salter 004.jpg

    truck.plow.salter 003.jpg
     
  18. eskimoplower

    eskimoplower Junior Member
    Messages: 26

    2x35 watt lights? BTW placement is everything

    I'm guessing you're using 2 35 watt lamps? I've set up our plow truck with 2x 35 watt round aux lights from wal-fart and so far after 2 seasons, they're doing well. I went with the relay set up and have a switch on the dash so i can use them with or with out the stock reverse lights. So far, no overload, heating, shorts, etc. Just be sure to use a relay rated for the load and proper wire size.

    For last season, I mounted them on the sides of the class III trailer hitch near the center of the truck and this year I mounted them on the steel bumper, closer to the corners of the truck. WOW what a difference!! Now I can see what I am doing!! Being in the center, they were below the bumper and didn't light up enough of the sides and didn't "flood" enough. I was afraid I had to get newer better set of lights this year. just my 2¢'s

    Let it snow let it snow let it snow, eh!!??

    Greg
     
  19. kitn1mcc

    kitn1mcc Senior Member
    Messages: 516

    i do not see the need to run a Rely and wire.. If you look in the Schematic of most modern Trucks the Reverse lights are Feed thru a Relay then a Fuse. then down the Frame rail. most fuses are 15 to 20 thats Plenty of power. i would recomend a small fuse at the tap off point
     
  20. RBRONKEMA GHTFD

    RBRONKEMA GHTFD 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,592

    Really depends on how much you use everything on how to wire it. Always seems like you can never have enough switches. To me I think rear warning is more important than forward warning. But I guess that because I am a fire fighter and sitting on the side of the road is more common for us than just your everyday person. If it was my setup I would wire it like this.

    1-hide aways
    2-Rear light bar stobes. (relay)
    3-Front light bar strobes (relay)
    4-Halogen flashers, and the center rotator (relay)
    5-Work Lights (relay)
    6-left alley
    7-right alley
    8-salter vibrator (relay)
    9-salter spot light (relay)
    10-back-up alarm

    And really if you are looking at re- wiring everything you might want to look into One of these.

    http://www.fleetsafety.com/10-Rocker-Switches-Four-12V-Outlets-522

    http://www.fleetsafety.com/10-Rocker-Switches-Switch-Plate-519

    http://www.fleetsafety.com/Whelen-PCC10-Ten-Position-Switch-Box-21

    This way its cleaner and you have 5 power wires
    1 for the switch box
    1 for each relay

    If you really wanted to get involved with it you could wire say 1 4 ga wire off the battery to a bussman fuse block and then run the smaller 10 ga wire off that to the relays and the switch box.

    Its total preference honestly. And for me its what the customer wants, and how much money they want to spend. Just trying to save you some wiring troubles and hassel.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2011