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1990 Chevy, removing the bed

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by wsmm, Apr 23, 2011.

  1. wsmm

    wsmm Member
    Messages: 80

    I'm going to need to remove my bed to repair my rear cab corners. Any suggestions for removing the bed bolts as I've a feeling they're going to rusted tight. Just had to remove my trailer hitch because it got bent and had to use a 4 1/2" grinder with cutting disks to remove the bolts on that. I have a 1/2 " electric impact gun and also a 1/2 impact gun for my compressor, but I don't think either one of them is going to have the guts to remove the bolts.

    Thanks for your suggestions and advice
    Bill
     
  2. tuney443

    tuney443 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,847

    If possible I would soak the bolts with PB Blaster for at least a day and then when you're ready to pull it off,spray on CRC's Freeze-off--1 bolt at a time since it only works well for a few seconds.I've dismantled hardware that was rust ugly as sin with the stuff--works great. Good luck.
     
  3. t-sig

    t-sig Senior Member
    from 607
    Messages: 121

    When all else fails, use a cutting torch. When you have the bed off, consider replacing the brake line along the frame and gas lines, fuel pump too.
     
  4. Dakota Dave

    Dakota Dave Member
    Messages: 44

    When I used to live in Michigan I took them off with a Torch. After the beds Off Clean up and use new hardware. Out here in North Dakota I just crawl under with a Ratchet and unbolt. Really depends on how long its been in the land of more salt than road..
     
  5. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    You may be surprised how easily they come up. GM started using light loctite on the bed bolts, beginning with your generation of truck I believe. The loctite also worked to minimize bolt corrosion. Grab your gun and 18mm socket, I bet they'll come right out.
     
  6. jb1390

    jb1390 Senior Member
    Messages: 710

    Impact wrench for the front four-and die grinder for the back four. That has been my experience.
     
  7. farmerkev

    farmerkev Senior Member
    Messages: 847

    Id definately second the replacing of what you can with it off. I had my bed off, and sure enough, not long after putting it back on the fuel pump went out so off the bed came again. Pain in the butt. My bolts were really rusted, when I took it off the first time, I broke the nut thats welded into the bed right off, and had to cut a hole in the bed to remove it :realmad:
     
  8. BlizzardBeater

    BlizzardBeater Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 420

    Heat is your biggest friend! Close second is a good impact and air source. I really cant imagine doing 3/4 of what I do in the shop without either. Matter of fact, I just replaced some exhaust tips on a truck the other day that believe it or not would have been a nightmare to get off without a torch!
     
  9. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    A lot of times you can heat bolts or nuts up red hot and let it cool a few times. This burns off the oxidation (Rust) which "welds" the stuff together. I have got 20 year old bolts that held on splash shields out this way. Air power is great but heat can be your friend! Just keep a garden hose at hand if you really doing a burn.
     
  10. the new boss 92

    the new boss 92 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,989

    i have never had an issue with gm bed bolts, they may look scary rusty, but come out most of the time.