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1984 wont start

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by kefergus, May 2, 2003.

  1. kefergus

    kefergus Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    I have a 1984 K10 that starts fine when its cold, but once its been run for a while, it wont start back. The entire distibutor has been rebuilt, some parts twice. When it doesn't start, I am getting power to the coil, but no spark. What to do next?
     
  2. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    First thing to check would be the wiring inside the distributor.The little wires from the pickup to module can break,causing a no spark condition.Also check the wires that come off the module and connect into the cap.They are bad for breaking internally as well.

    You may have a bad ground.Try clamping a booster cable to the dist base,and the negative battery terminal,and see if it starts.

    Also check the dist shaft for play.When the shaft bushings wear,the pickup coil becomes misaligned,and it will stall or quit.

    Has the coil been replaced as well ? It could be the culprit.

    These HEI distributors are plentiful.See if you can find a complete used unit,cap and all,and swap it on,to verify it is a distributor problem.If the problem disappears,then start swapping components one by one until you rectify the problem.
     
  3. kefergus

    kefergus Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    Thanks for the input. I hadn't thought about using a booster cable for a ground. To answer your question, yes, the coil has been replaced as well. I will check the wires inside the distributor, and I hope to get a chance to check things out intimately with a meter this weekend.
     
  4. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    One more thing to check.......while you have the meter out is the voltage drop at the batt connection at the distributor,with the key on.Try to do it when the problem happens.If you see a large voltage drop,then it may idicate a problem in the ignition switch,or fusible links and wiring.

    Let us know what you find.
     
  5. kefergus

    kefergus Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    Can you be more specific when you are talking about the fusable links?? What exactly should I look for and where will they be located?? Or are you just referring to where two wires are hooked together, such as a plug connection, etc?? Also, what is the preferred method to checking the voltage drop at the batt connection - can I just remove the coil cover and check the voltage on a plug there??
     
  6. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    The fusible links are on the starter (two),and on the firewall junction,just above the distributor.They are like fuses for the higher power circuits in the truck.One feeds the chrage cicuit,one feeds the ignition switch,the other the fuse panel.Sometimes they corrode,and you loses voltage across the corosion.You will only have to get into checking them if you find a voltage drop problem at the batt connection at the distributor.

    Backprobe the batt connection (usually a large pinkish wire,with a white connector,a paper clip works well here),and then read the voltage (key on) at the paper clip.You should not have less than 1V below battery voltage.It should still start and run down to about 9 volts,so if you see less than 9 you have found your problem.Jumpering battery voltage directly to it should get it running then.
     
  7. kefergus

    kefergus Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    So if the voltage at the batt post is less than 9, I should start looking upstream of the hot wire?? Upstream of this is the switch and the fuse box, correct??
     
  8. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Yes.if the voltage is low at the distributor,then look upstream,like ign switch and wiring,and fusible links.

    The fuse box isn't in that circuit,it's wired directly from the fusible links,through the ign switch.

    Give me a bit,and I'll pull the wiring diagram for your truck and see exactly which fusible link it is.I'm pretty sure it's one at the starter,but I'll double check and post back in a bit.
     
  9. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    The fusible link is one of the ones at the starter.They are both red wires,so it may be hard to tell which one is which,but an ohmmeter will tell you.
     
  10. kefergus

    kefergus Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    fusible link

    OK now I'm back at this thing now because it isnt starting again. So far I have found nothing, but I need to check the fusible links. Wyldman said something about using a paper clip and a meter, but I'm not sure how to check the fusible links with a paper clip and a meter. Do i wrap the paper clip around the wire, or probe the wire with the paper clip and then take a reading?? Need very detailed directions please.
     
  11. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    The paper clip is used to back probe a connector,like the batt connection at the dist cap,so you can get into it without disconnecting it.I would check for power at the batt connection at the distributor first (key on,when truck dies,or won't run),if you have power (at least 9V) then the problem is somewhere else.If not,then take a look at the fusible links.You should be able to visually see if they are burnt,swollen,or corroded.You can check them by piercing the wire on either side.You should have power on both sides of it if it is good.

    If you do have a problem with the fusible links at the starter,unbolt them,and pull them up to the top of the motor and run them directly to the battery.You will probably have to extend the wires some,but they will survive better and are easier to diagnose from the battery.
     
  12. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    If it's any easier,feel free to call me at the shop,and i'll walk you through the diagnosis.

    Follow the link in my signature to my website,phone number is on there under "contact us"
     
  13. kefergus

    kefergus Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    I needed to get this truck running again today if possible and it's raining here and the truck was in the parking lot at work, so I had to have it towed in to the garage. The guy hopes to have it running this afternoon. I will let you know what the ailment, and the cure, turns out to be. Thanks to all for the input.