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03 f350 front hub

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by Morrissey snow removal, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. Morrissey snow removal

    Morrissey snow removal PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,799

    how much of a pain in the ass are the hud wheel bearnings assemblies to change never done one on a newer truck it has 154000 orig miles 9 foot blade its whole life and never needed them till now done tons on my 97 down trucks they are a piece of cake! thanks for the help
     
  2. grandview

    grandview PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 14,609

    Easy. I dropped it off at the dealer and picked it up that night.
     
  3. kashman

    kashman PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,070

    very ez did mine in 10 min 250 warn hubs
     
  4. Morrissey snow removal

    Morrissey snow removal PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,799

    not the locking hubs the whole hub bearning assembly
     
  5. tjctransport

    tjctransport PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,390

    unit bearing assembly he is talking about. basically you have to strip the outer axle. remove wheel, brakes, and outer hub. then unbolt unit bearing and reassemble. not sure if you have to remove the axle or not, because i have not had to do one yet. i looked into it a few years ago when i got the 2000 and 2002 trucks.
     
  6. mrv8outboard

    mrv8outboard Senior Member
    Messages: 197

    Removal

    All vehicles


    Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
    NOTE: Caliper is removed for clarity.

    Position aside the front disc brake caliper and anchor plate (2B292).
    Remove the two front disc brake caliper anchor plate bolts.
    Remove the front disc brake caliper anchor plate and position aside.

    NOTE: Carry out this step for F-250 and F-350 4x4 SRW vehicles.

    Remove the rotor.

    NOTE: Carry out this step for DRW vehicles.

    NOTE: If excessive force must be used during brake rotor removal, the brake rotors should be checked for lateral runout prior to installation. For additional information, refer to Section 206-00 .

    Remove the eight hub extender nuts, the hub plate and the rotor.
    Remove the eight hub plate nuts.
    Remove the hub plate.
    Remove the rotor.

    Remove the hub lock.
    Remove the retainer ring.
    Pull outward and remove the hub lock.

    Remove the axle shaft thrust washers.
    Remove the snap ring.
    Remove the three thrust washers.

    Vehicles equipped with ABS


    CAUTION: Do not remove the ABS sensor from the bearing.

    Disconnect the ABS wheel sensor harness.
    Disconnect the connector.
    Disconnect the harness routing clips.

    All vehicles


    NOTE: The wheel hub and bearing is a slip fit design and should not require a puller to remove it.

    Remove the wheel hub and bearing.
    Remove the four lock nuts.
    Remove the wheel hub and bearing.

    If necessary, remove the brake disc shield.

    Vehicles with ABS


    If necessary, remove the bolt and the ABS sensor.

    brake.gif

    hub.gif

    hub2.gif

    rotor.gif

    rotor2.gif
     
  7. mrv8outboard

    mrv8outboard Senior Member
    Messages: 197

    more pics.

    sensor.gif

    shield.gif

    wire.gif
     
  8. mrv8outboard

    mrv8outboard Senior Member
    Messages: 197

    I have the puller and the factory service DVD if you think you need it.
     
  9. wewille

    wewille Senior Member
    Messages: 311

    Make sure youve got a good air hammer to get those out...
     
  10. Mnpowerstroke99

    Mnpowerstroke99 Member
    Messages: 82

    Buy new mounting studs [4 of them] they are less than $20 at the dealer and way easier than taking the old ones out and reusing them[they need to be heated up to remove them].Otherwise its really easy to do.
     
  11. coldcoffee

    coldcoffee Senior Member
    Messages: 776

    97's are a lot easier than an 03' IMO, I don't know why they had to screw w/ a good design. The big snap ring on the hub can be a real pita, to get seated correctly...make sure both surfaces are very clean before reinstall, or you could lose a hub on the freeway.

    You may want to go ahead and do the u joints while you've got it apart. If your not in a big hurry and want to save some cash...I did mine w/o wrecking the seals, by cutting out the joints w/ a whiz wheel right on the truck. The seals still looked new and for what they cost, I had no problem taking the ones I bought back to the parts store. If you need the seal tool, but can't find one...hit the hardware store for a 1"x6" black pipe nipple w/ a 1" cap and put a 4" round wall mount on the other end..it works for about $6-8 in hardware.
     
  12. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,339

    With that many miles the ball joints are do for replacement too.
     
  13. redneck farmer

    redneck farmer Senior Member
    Messages: 192

    They are a pain in the a.. according to the garage I use when they did mine
     
  14. Chris112lee

    Chris112lee Member
    Messages: 64

    They are the easiest bearing I've ever changed. Both done in under 2 hours.
     
  15. Morrissey snow removal

    Morrissey snow removal PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,799

    thanks guys gona try to do them next weekend
     
  16. Morrissey snow removal

    Morrissey snow removal PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,799

    anyone ever bye the hubs that are on ebay for 80$ seams to good to be true when my parts guy said they were 220
     
  17. Mnpowerstroke99

    Mnpowerstroke99 Member
    Messages: 82

    When the one on the passenger side went out, I checked around different auto stores for a new one and ended up geting one at the dealer for $502 . My 99' truck has the 10mm hubs not the newer 13mm hubs.I later found out I could of used the 13mm hubs [cheaper]if I changed the rotors over to the newer ones .I checked on ebay before I bought the new one and nobody had one for my truck at that time,I kept looking on ebay and about 2 weeks later someone had a brand new factory oem one on there and I won it for $67 shipped.