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02 2500hd reverse 480Le

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by mow4cash, Dec 9, 2009.

  1. mow4cash

    mow4cash Member
    Messages: 40

    My 02 2500hd is slamming into reverse. If i put it into reverse and let it slowly drop into gear it works fine but when i don't go easy on it, it feels as if it slips and then slams. The transmission seems to work fine other than reverse. Checked the fluid and its way burnt so I know its only a matter of time. I have been milking the tranny for 2 years with this problem but its a pain having to take it extra easy plowing. Has anyone experienced this and found out what the problem is?
     
  2. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    Ummm...sounds to me like you beat on your truck and are now wondering why you're having tranny troubles? My advice- STOP BEATING YOUR TRUCK! WHen you are plowing- STOP, then shift into reverse- DON'T shift while still moving or you're going to be asking for issues...

    Change your fluid and be nice to your truck ussmileyflag
     
  3. BigLou80

    BigLou80 Senior Member
    Messages: 558

    Sounds like you need to do a filter and fluid change in the transmission. When was the last one done ?
     
  4. RBRONKEMA GHTFD

    RBRONKEMA GHTFD 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,592

    Complete stops! I learned the hard way one morning with my 02. I went into a snow bank and when I went to put it into reverse. Nothing. It was when we had gotten dumped on too. Bring it to the tranny shop now while you have down time and get it fixed. Then make COMPLETE STOPS!
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2009
  5. mow4cash

    mow4cash Member
    Messages: 40

    Well the business I bought my truck from did beat on the truck(knew that when i bought it). Its not a problem from still rolling and shifting(which is probably what caused it). I can come to a complete stop and it still does it from park to reverse. Its a matter of letting it drop in if u know what i mean and then ease into it. I can try a fluid change but since its burnt i figured its shot anyway and a waste of time. I really want to know what is causing it? Could it be in easy fix like the selector which froze one day and wouldn't let me shift out of park till a put heat to it(don't think its that but maybe something like that). Plus if i know what the problem is i can see which tranny shop is the most knowledgeable because they all suck around here, probably could do the same job they do.
     
  6. mow4cash

    mow4cash Member
    Messages: 40

    Probably 55k ago when the truck was new. So its definitely overdue. Do u think its worth a shot i figured its a waste since its burnt and probably wont help? If it wasn't so badly burnt id figure that was the problem and the ports were clogged.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2009
  7. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    Stop MILKING !!!! You should of taken the steps to prolonging it ....OIL & FILTER changes Yearly.....
    How long will your teeth last with out maintaining them ???
    There are so many people that neglect maintenance and wonder why things break or go bad...
    Just can't believe it !!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  8. BigLou80

    BigLou80 Senior Member
    Messages: 558


    I am no expert (his name is B&B) but fluid is cheap and easy to change, the filter is cheap but not quite as easy to change. You can do both for $50 or less in a few hours time. Its a cheap and easy place to start. If the fluid is broken down it can't do its job in the transmission. If all you needed was pumpable fluid you could run anti freeze/water in the thing

    I change my fileter every fall and change only the fluid in the spring, so far I have 170K and the thing shits as good as it ever did. I don't run synthetic because I change it so often (every 10-15K) that it never gets burnt
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2009
  9. mow4cash

    mow4cash Member
    Messages: 40

    I guess ill try changing the fluid since its a simple job. Thought changing the fluid at this point was like putting a band aid on a broken leg. Usually i don't maintain stuff that is broken and that's what i figured the Tanny was. I do regular maintenance all the time on my equipment to keep them in good shape but since i bought the truck with the tranny messed up i said to myself ill wait till it dies, get it fixed and then take care of it the way the original owner was suppose to. Guess my thought process was wrong. But if someone could tell me what the actual mechanical problem is that would be helpful. I already know what the cause is(neglect). It would be nice if B&B had some technical input, he is very knowledgeable from what i have read in other threads.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2009
  10. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    You might not what to hear what B&B has to say to you after he reads this.....He may give you an ear full...
     
  11. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Here's some reading for you.

    http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=74317&highlight=4l80e

    I would do the fluid change ASAP, and put some Lube-Gard in it. You want to do a complete change, including a fluid exchange to pump out the torque converter. You'll probably need 16 quarts. You should be able to do the job for about $75 or less.

    If you don't feel comfortable with your local shops for a rebuild, I would go with a Jasper unit.
     
  12. nate456789

    nate456789 Senior Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 194

    Lube Guard is great stuff!
    My K2500 fluid was burnt when I got it and I plowed another 2 seasons on it before I had it rebuilt. I got a little nervous pushing my luck with it.

    When I first got it I changed the fluid and filter and added two bottles of lube guard.
    Never had an issue with it.

    What ever you do don't have it flushed after you burn the fluid. There is a high chance it wont work after you do. The cleaning chemicals in the flush mess up the burnt clutches.

    Just change the fluid and run it as long as you want to gamble on it.
     
  13. mow4cash

    mow4cash Member
    Messages: 40

    That's what i thought about the flush . You sound like you were in the same boat as me.
    My gut says to replace this thing because its shot and its only a matter of time. When I bought the truck i figured in the cost of a new tranny when i saw it was burnt. Its just hard to bite the bullet when its still working but probably the smarter choice.
     
  14. mow4cash

    mow4cash Member
    Messages: 40

    I can take an earful if he also can tell me what is the technical problem with the tranny is. That is really all i want to know but it seems nobody knows. Most people are just telling me what causes the problem because that's all they know. But any kind of reply is better than none.
     
  15. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    How do you shift differently between easy and rough........
     
  16. mow4cash

    mow4cash Member
    Messages: 40

    I had already read that thread before i posted but thanks for putting it up. Defiantly learned some stuff reading it but it seems different from my case since mine still works. I'm going to have to look into the jasper's. Wish I had a good shop that could fix it the right way.
     
  17. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    I'm not an expert by any means. I'm not sure if reverse band application is mechanical or electrical. If it's electrical, you could have a bad soleniod. It's also possible the band is so worn that as the servo applies faster it's pounding the reverse band. Unfortunately the reverse band is at the bottom of the trans, making replacing the band only unrealistic.
     
  18. mow4cash

    mow4cash Member
    Messages: 40

    I wouldnt really say easy and rough. More like normal and babying. When i shift normal say from park to reverse i move the shifter and once its in reverse press on the gas which causes it to slam or clunk. When i baby it i move the shifter into reverse wait 2 seconds roughly and i can actually hear it drop in so i know im good and then can give it gas. Ive never had that much of a delay in any vehicle for it to drop in. I hope i made it clear enough since its kind of hard to explain. Actually took me awhile to understand what it was really doing.
     
  19. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    So it's actually going in slowly. When you hit the gas, it ups the line pressure, filling/applying the servo faster, which is why it slams. Sounds like the lining is worn on the band to me. I'm amazed it has lasted so long. I would be planning to replace/rebuild the trans. When that band breaks, it's all over with no warning. And it will happen at the worst time.

    Like I said, I'm not the expert. B&B will likely be on later, he's the man. He'll also correct me if I made any mistakes LOL.....
     
  20. RBRONKEMA GHTFD

    RBRONKEMA GHTFD 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,592

    I am pretty sure the reverse band is mechanical. My reverse went out when I had my 02 hd. Basically the cause was not making complete stops. Not to bash anyone but if you watch some guys videos onhow they plow. (1 comes to mind) he's gotta be shifting at atleast 10 ish mph. That will break the tabs on that band. That's what happened to mine. I was shifting at about 5 ish mph though, but it will do. Now I stop completely then shift. Just bring it in, have the tranny shop look at it and fix it. When ya get it back ask them what they did and see if you can look at the part or parts.