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01 Dodge 1500 PROBLEMS! Don't buy!

Discussion in 'Ram Trucks' started by XDodgeman, Dec 7, 2003.

  1. XDodgeman

    XDodgeman Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    I have a Dodge 01 1500 quad 5.2,5 spd,4x4,SLT with 31,000..
    NEW! 3/36
    The Problems;
    -5(on Sixth) pinion seal(rearend) leak so far.
    -The whole housing was replace do to tech gouged housing.
    Also gears (howl at 55mph).
    -four(4)_sets fog lamps
    -Missing valve cover gasket (Leak).
    -Pings-update in computer(used 89-94) still does it!
    -5 degree off in timing from factory
    -New plugs at 15,000, air filter(maint.)O.k
    -Trasfer case shifter shaft seal
    -Intermedate shaft replaced (wheel at 2 not 12)at straight
    -BAD Shimmy at 55 65-Tire Runout-cupping
    -Got 4 New tires and toe was out 40 degrees.
    Windshield cracked- NO A ROCK DIDN'T HIT IT...Winter time
    Local glass people put in new at No Cost-had insurance
    *NO POWER TO PULL A TRAILER DOWN HILL_EVEN WITH THE WIND IN IT'S SAIL...
    Owned (all used)D150, S-15, (F-150 brother still drives it) and Gmc 1500(new) ALL O.K.-- BUT needed 4x4--so the Dodge CAME INTO MY LIFE!!!
    Watch out!!! I'm Trading it...If IT Lasts until Spring..
     
  2. Roger Dodger

    Roger Dodger Senior Member
    from nw Pa.
    Messages: 240

    I'd be interested to know the build year and assembly plant location. Should be on your door tag or under the hood on a stamped sheet metal tag near the radiator support/frame. Also may be on the window sticker when new from the dealer. You can also call Dodge Cust. Svc. and give 'em the VIN. They'll tell you the time of day it was built too! If it's assembled in St. Louis. Misourri that explains a whole lot!!! You are experiencing the St. Louis Blues!

    As for power loss when towing, the PCM re-flash is prolly got the timing so ********, it's just enough to move the truck empty! It's a cr@ppy fix from Dodge. I had similar problems from leaky axle seal to a 2-time leaky crankshaft seal (only to turn out to be a cracked block in the end!!) and plenty more problems. Almost made me become a Ford SD250 convert!! Mexico has a reputation for building satisfactory Rams.
     
  3. XDodgeman

    XDodgeman Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    Problem in Dodgeville

    Roger Dodger,
    The sticker says; Saltillo, Mexico...
    I just called Dodge for the date-Closed!
    Tomorrow first thing I will call!(look for another email)
    Is there anything that I could do with the timing in the truck without the dealer?
    Another Question; Why aren't some of the plow manf. companies NOT making plows for the New 1500? Or if they are the plows are so small they could cross fit a graden tractor?
    In the spring I'm going with FORD 350-450-550..Dumptruck with 6.0 litre., with a "v" plow...Or Chevy 3500. I want to move snow not a FLAKE!

    p.s. Over the years I've had the POWER WAGONS 57, 68, now a 74 w300...Neighbor owns a 71 with a 9ft fischer--That's the best old truck to plow with- GOES over-under anything! I guess I'm expecting the "NEW" to be as GREAT as the OLD! I'm wrong for that!
    "XDodgeman"

    I look at 'PLOWSITE' everytime the Computer is on!
    Thanks for the service..
     
  4. Roger Dodger

    Roger Dodger Senior Member
    from nw Pa.
    Messages: 240

    Well, XDodgeman,
    there is some truth behind the fact that some old iron is better than new iron. However today's vehicles are built smarter... or they should be anyway. With CAFE standards always on the toughening side, vehicle mfgrs have to make compromises and figure ways to meet those standards yet still deliver the power and longevity that the consumer wants. The engineers are in the middle. Sure, the old cast-iron New Process 205 cases are stronger than their modern day magnesium counterparts, but engineers typically figure a way to beef up the real areas of need and diminish the areas of lesser importance or risk. You have to admit that todays trucks overall, ride a whole lot better than yesteryear's neanderthals. The bodies last longer too with proper care. When's the last time you saw a twisted bed/frame in a newer truck using a hydroformed frame? Plenty of old Chevys and such on the road with beds tilted pretty bad... no thanks! As for wimpy plows, they have to match the duty of the truck. When an old Power Wagon ran nothing but Dana axles w/ hub-locks and brute suspension, most plows were ok for it but there still were many of them that underwent maintenance and repairs from such heavy use under plowing.... you can't tell me those old trucks lasted & lasted throughout the plowing seasons without downtime.

    As for plowing on a regular/commercial basis as you seem to intend to do, I would never recommend a 1/2-ton. Even a 3/4ton is going to get worked. You are on the right track going the route of 1-ton and up, especially if you want to move snow with a 9' blade. That's alot of weight and alot of resistance from the snow too. If I was to openly post a thread saying that I personally feel any 1/2ton truck should never have a plow on it I'd get blasted here real fast.
    Whoops, I just said it!:eek:
    Unless the truck has been truly outfitted to support plowing I really don't condone it, IMHO... (my opinion only on that). At least the 3/4-tons have a larger frame & brakes to help things out from the get go. There are plenty of guys who will argue to no end that 1/2-tons can perform just as well as their heavier brothers. Perhaps in certain cases, but from a factory stock design... not really. Since the plow mfgrs make "personal" plows for the 1/2-tons folks should stay within the parameters of safety and reliability. Exceeding those limits typically creates downtime and expenses. If you want to witness the most ignorance exuded by truck owners, visit the RV forums. Too many disappointed people there complaining that their truck or SUV can't seem to pull the trailer, or squats badly under load, and now what are they going to do after spending all that money on a new rig. They listened to and trusted a salesperson most likely, rather than sit down and do the math on the tow/haul ratings, etc. Plenty of plow dealers too, that will cheerfully install an overweight package for a truck. They figure the owner can make necessary upgrades if things are problematic... just more money and effort being spent in the direction of band-aid fixes to an improper application in the first place. How many blades have you seen just mere inches off the ground when raised fully up? Can you imagine the centimeters of clearance if it was angled under travel? The wheel clearances sure tell all don't they?

    I believe that truck makers do their studies and data collection and when all is said & done, the guy that plans to work a truck and have a level of reliability from it will consider the 3/4-tons & up. The 1/2-tons are good for occasional payload or day-to-day work of a lesser duty. This is not a slam against 1/2-ton trucks... just a fact, from its design.

    As for altering your timing, it's controlled by the PCM and the only thing you can do is turn the ignition key! If the pinging is that bad perhaps some engine mods and experimenting with different fuel brands and grades will help. Owners have had luck in reducing ping by replacing the T-stat to a 180°, throttle body porting, increase cold air intake, mod the TPS sensor, etc. Could change your torque curve though for the worse as far as towing. As for the trailer you tow, dunno the weights but, the weight tags on them are usually not accurate. Visit a CAT scale while it's loaded as when you are towing it. You may be at or beyond the tow limits of the truck. Weigh just the trailer, then the entire combo, then do the math.
     
  5. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    Don't rule out a bad belly pan gasket for the pinging either. That's a pretty common problem.
     
  6. Roger Dodger

    Roger Dodger Senior Member
    from nw Pa.
    Messages: 240

    The 5.2s were known for that?
     
  7. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    Yup, 5.2's are basically the same as the 5.9, almost all of the parts are interchangable between the two.
     
  8. XDodgeman

    XDodgeman Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    Festerw, Roger Dodger;
    I WISHED I GOT THE 360 INSTEAD OF THE OLD 318!
    What is a "Belly pan Gasket?" (OIL PAN?) How do you check that?

    -For the trailer-No power even Empty...It's a 8X12-sing. axle, utlity all metal "Car Mate"-

    For the truck-
    the best solution:
    1.Turn the radio WAY UP!
    2.Only drive when needed-keep the miles down
    3.Stop seeing the problems when under the truck(when doing maint.)
    MOST IMPORTANT STEP-
    Start looking at New trucks....With many test drives!
    Make sure the salesperson KNOWS about the trucks! Weight, power and trailer towing-- IF they hand you a BOOK and say read!, or they say add aftermarket parts-stop and walk out!
    Stay away from 1/2 ton trucks!
    I will buy a "Skateboard" before a DODGE!
    I can't believe I typed that!

    Am I forgetting anything?

    Xdodgeman
     
  9. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    To check the intake manifold (belly pan) gasket you remove the air cleaner and flip the throttle blades open and take look down inside with a flashlite, if it looks like it's wet with oil chances are pretty good it's bad. Also a good sign is losing oil between changes. My Dakota pulls a loaded 6x12 trailer without any problem, but it is also a lot lighter than the Ram.
     
  10. XDodgeman

    XDodgeman Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    Festerw;
    I will do that tomorrow after the "big Snow." Would that also cause the oil pressure to fall below 40 pounds after it's Hot, at idle? Remember the truck only has 31,000! If it's wet - Dodge will be doing some MORE work on this JUNKER!
    About pulling- the rearend makes a difference to right? I think Mines 3.55...
    All I want for chirstmas is a truck with NO problems!!!!
    XDodgeman
    p.s. I will tell you what I find!
     
  11. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    My 5.2's oil pressure falls below 40 too, it's a normal occurence when it's hot at idle, 6psi I believe is the norm at idle and anywhere from 30-80 while driving. The rearend will make a big difference towing, mine has the 3.55's but like I said before there's a weight difference, you would probably be happier if it had 3.92's even happier with 4.10's, that would make up for the (what I believe) to be underpowered 5.2 in the 1/2 tons. If you could get the dealership to swing it (probably not) but APS Precision makes a nice replacement plate for the belly pan gasket so you wouldn't have to worry about it blowing again.
     
  12. XDodgeman

    XDodgeman Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    Festerw;
    I took the aircleaner off. There is NO POOLS of oil, But there is residue! What do you think? O>K>
    Thanks for the information!
    Xdodgeman
     
  13. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    Residue could be from the pcv and breather sucking oil in (normal), try changing to a 180 degree thermostat and some plain resistor Autolite 3923 plugs, that may help with the ping. You could try posting your question at Dodgetrucks.org they are a great bunch of guys with a ton of knowledge.
     
  14. XDodgeman

    XDodgeman Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    Festerw;
    Thanks----Will do!
    What about the Slit-fires or the 6-10.00$ per plug ONES
    The ads says more power better gas mileage.
    Xdodgeman
     
  15. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    For the 3.9,5.2 and 5.9 the auto lite 3923's (these are one range colder than stock, stock is 5224) work great also the ngks that can be cross-reference to that number work well also, the platinum tipped plugs for some reason don't agree with those engines very well.