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01 Chevy 2500HD axle seal

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by Seaway25, Oct 1, 2009.

  1. Seaway25

    Seaway25 Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    My driver side differential seal is leaking so I took it to a friends garage to have him replace the seal. He couldn't get the axle apart. He tried for a while but ran out of time (works another job full time).

    So, I took it to another big garage to get it done. I decided since they were at it they might as well do the other seals too. They got the passenger side fine but they can't get the drivers side apart. The retaining ring just won't let go. They called around to some Chevy dealers and found there is a technical service bulletin on this. But the TSA didn't give them any new ideas that they hadn't already tried. Anyone have this problem or some good advise? I'm stuck driving my 69 Cadillac. It's not a great work vehicle.
     
  2. affekonig

    affekonig Senior Member
    Messages: 909

    Here's the bulletin info you were talking about. I've been hearing about how big a PITA these are for years. I doubt either place has tried this yet.

    Some technicians may comment on not being able to remove the left front axle shaft from the gear case when replacing the axle seal. To ease removal, the left front axle shaft C-clip needs to be centered in the retaining grove.

    Remove the front axle assembly from the vehicle. Refer to SI procedures.
    Position the front axle assembly straight up and down so the left stub shaft is facing upward.
    Using a ball peen hammer, tap the left stub shaft flange up and down repeatedly until the stub shaft separates from the axle assembly. This step centers the C-clip in the retaining groove of the stub shaft.
    Inspect the C-clip and replace if necessary.
     
  3. Seaway25

    Seaway25 Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    We tried that and no luck. Used a small hammer, big hammer, air hammer, and everything else. It didn't budge. At one point we had two people prying with a 4 ft bar and still nothing. I am running out of time and paying by the hour so I just went and bought a case from a salvage yard. My brother in law works there so the gave me $100 off. They had a few of them and I picked out the one in the best shape. Paid $400. It sucks but at $65 an hour I'm going to end up there soon anyway and still not have it apart.
     
  4. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    See this is why I go to the dealer for service. If they can't get it off because of there own stupidity, thats there problem, I would of walked out the door without paying and gone directly to the dealer. Does this shop even employee any ASE cert. Mechanics, or are they just local grease monkey with no ambitions in life? Maybe I am being alittle harsh here, but come on....seriously; buy a used one for $400 that you will inevitably have the SAME problem with because your mechanics have no clue how to do the job? Yeah, I don't think so, something is wrong there.
     
  5. Seaway25

    Seaway25 Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    From what I've heard from several different places now, (two are dealers) that what affekonig said should work. If that doesn't work, they weren't sure what else you could do. It's a a pretty basic repair and it should come apart real easy. But if it doesn't what can you do? I could take it somewhere else but it's already out of the truck. I'd have to pay another place $2-300 to fix it anyway. I just need my truck back now. And I've done a lot of business with the place it's at now. They always treat me well. I feel like this is just some bad luck. And I could have walked out the door, but that would have been it. Walking out, and not driving, because the axles out of my truck and on the bench.
     
  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The cir-clip axle retainer on some of these trucks can be a real issue to gain removal of the driver side shaft. When all else fails I split the diff case halves to gain access to the clip and get it seated down in it's groove allowing the shaft to finally release it's grip. Adds to the labor costs but still less than replacing the entire unit with an "unknown" unit.

    Good time to freshen all the seals while you're there too.
     
  7. MRHORSEPOWER1

    MRHORSEPOWER1 Member
    Messages: 82

    That is the hardest part on the drivers side. But now from on I used steel wedge on one side and pound in hard then try using .491 shank air hammer or heavy hammer on the other side and try to pop it out. If wedge drops, repeat it again until you get it out. Most of times I used .491 shank chisel air hammer and stuck it in hard on one side then let the chisel go from air hammer and re-insert the .491 shank hammer in and aim on the other side away from where chisel or wedge is at. Sometimes it won't come out but never knows. One time I broke the axle yoke in half....oops!! Just try be careful not to crack the case but try your best. I got over 15 years mechanic experience and graduated from Wyoming Tech. Institute in Laramie, WY. Hope that helps you out. I am not very good at explaining crap but let other people watch how I do it which makes my life easier!! Dealer always charge an arm and a leg for that kind of job.
     
  8. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Did the guys get it done?
     
  9. Seaway25

    Seaway25 Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    It's done. They put the case in that I bought. It ended up costing less than I expected and I got my truck back that day. I couldn't wait any longer to do something else so I'm happy.