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Old 01-14-2010, 12:40 PM
600rrpilot 600rrpilot is offline
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Location: passaic county, NJ
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DIY, A "how to" change your snow pro 3000 fluid

Ok, Ive asked in the past and got no full replies. I have also seen others asking about changing the plow fluid on your Curtis plow. Well here you go, a step by step process to change your fluid. I will update the tools required later on.

1: Put the jackstand completely down and remove the plow from the truck. Gather the required tools. I also used a floor jack because I wasnt sure if the jackstand would loose pressure when I drained the fluid, FYI...it did NOT loose pressure and held the plow up. Better safe then sorry though.

2: Remove the pump cover. My plow is 5 years old and had the little white pins with a flat headed screw in the center, however I know some people just have pins in the center that need to be pulled out with a pair of needle-nose or something.

3: Grab your drain pan and put it underneath the drain plug. The plug is located on the left hand side underneath the pump (if your kneeling behind the plow) Remove the fill plug (the bolt on the top left of the pump with the brass condensation? filter). Then loosen up the drain bolt and let it drain into your pan.

4: While that is draining, remove the three hoses that go to your cylinders. Leave the angled adapters in the cylinders, only remove the hose.

5: Grab your drain pan and put it under the left angle cylinder. You can attempt to pull the plow back but I physically couldnt. I hooked a rachet strap onto the left side of the moldboard, the other side the the frame near the hooks, and pulled the moldboard back into the frame with the rachet strap to get the fluid out of the angle cylinder. Be carefull as it will "shoot" out of the angled adapter. I just did it slowly and let the fluid drip down the cylinder into the pan. Do this until all the fluid is out and the piston is completely compressed. Now repeat on the right side. Clean the threads and reconnect the two angle cylinder hoses.

6: For this part I used an emtpy soda bottle to catch the fluid as a pan would be awkward. To drain the lift cylinder put a sode bottle on the little angle adapter at the bottom of the cylinder. Now compress the lift cylinder completely, ridding the cylinder of all its fluid. Clean the threads and reconnect the hose.

7: Before moving on, take some degreaser or brake cleaner and clean up all the dripping fluid from the plow frame and cylinders.

8: Next your going to unbolt the pump. There is one bolt on the back of ther frame and two underneath. All 3 are inline. Remove those bolts and put them aside. Now lift the pump up being mindful of the wiring harness. Your going to want to remove the resevoir (the black left side of the pump with fill and drain holes) so lift up and tilt the left side out towards you. There are 4 tiny bolts holding the pump resevoir on. Loosen and remove them. Now you have to kinda shake twist and possibly VERY CAREFULLY pry the resevoir off. Be clean about this...you dont want to let anything get in the pump or damage anything. Once this is off, clean the inside of the resevoir with degreaser or brake cleaner and set aside to dry COMPLETELY. Clean up the resevoir mating surface where it meets the pump housing. There is an O-ring here. If it looks to be damaged or in bad shape, REPLACE it.

9: Now look on the bottom of the pump near the pick up screen. There will be a magnet stuck to the bottom quite like the one you find in transmission pans. Remove this and clean all the metal "sludge" off of it and set it aside.

10: Now I did NOT do the following because there wasnt anything caught in the screen, but if you want to, carefully remove the screen, clean it off, and replace.

11: Put the magnet back where it was on the bottom of the pump. Put a thin film of fresh hydraulic oil on the oring where the resevoir mates to the pump housing to ease installation. Take your clean and dry resevoir and install it back on the pump being careful not to cut, slice, nick, or rip the oring out of its groove. Once on, reinstall the 4 little bolts.

12: Inspect the wiring harness while your in there and make sure everything is nice and neat and nothing is chaffed, cut, or deteriorated. If so, replace.

13: Take the 3 pump mount bolts, clean the threads and put some lock-tite on them. Reinstall the pump into the frame using the 3 bolts. Reinstall and tighten the drain bolt.

14: Using 2 quarts of the hydraulic fluid of your choice (dont turn this into a fluid debate. I did not use curtis fluid. First time I changed I used AW32 that I use in my excavator. It works fine. Next time I change the fluid I will be changing all the seals and putting in blue snow plow specific hydraulic fluid I found at napa.) fill the resevoir until it is ALMOST full...not overflowing.

15: Go in the truck and move the plow left until the cylinder fills with fluid and the plow moves all the way left. Now go back and put a little more fluid in until its almost full again. Get back in the truck and move the plow right until the right angle cylinder is fully extended. Now once again go put more fluid in the pump until its almost full. Now repeat with the lift cylinder until it is fully raised. You dont want to run the pump without fluid in the resevoir so always make sure its topped off.

*Quick note...If any of the plows functions are not working, yet you hear the motor on the pump spinning, you likely dettached one of the wiring harness' plugs. So check them. This happened to me. The plow wouldnt raise but the pump was spinning. One of my connections came apart when I was moving the pump. Put it back together and it magically worked.

16: Top off your fluid until its almost full and reinstall the fill bolt. Clean up any other fluid that dripped anywhere.

17: Put the cover back on and go make some money.


*If anyone has any other pointers, feel free to add to this thread. Mods, make this a sticky if you want. I can add pictures next time I change it in a couple weeks.

Last edited by 600rrpilot; 01-14-2010 at 12:48 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-16-2010, 05:34 AM
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jrjr2u jrjr2u is offline
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Nice!! thanks

I vote sticky for this!!
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  #3  
Old 01-16-2010, 07:58 AM
Stan MI Stan MI is offline
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Add a couple of photos and offer it back to Curtis. Sounds like something that should come with the plow when new.

Another vote for Sticky !!
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  #4  
Old 01-17-2010, 09:07 AM
600rrpilot 600rrpilot is offline
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thanks guys...im going to add some photos soon when i change the seals out. Was in a rush to get it done last time and forgot to take pics and keep track of bolts sizes and such. I'll update soon
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  #5  
Old 01-17-2010, 12:07 PM
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Brucester1 Brucester1 is offline
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thanks for the info .another vote for a sticky !
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  #6  
Old 01-18-2010, 02:23 PM
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cvalcik cvalcik is offline
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Wow, I just came on here to ask this question and amazingly it was on the top of the list. Thank you for the great instructions. My motor burned out today and I will be doing a complete cleaning, overhaul since I have the whole thing apart now. When the motor arrives (couple days) I will continue and follow the instructions. If I remember, I will photo document the whole process. Thanks again!
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  #7  
Old 01-19-2010, 11:21 AM
600rrpilot 600rrpilot is offline
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cool. sounds good. I'll try and update in the next day or two the tools required. In the spring im going to do a complete overhaul....replace all the seals and repaint the moldboard
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  #8  
Old 01-19-2010, 11:54 AM
richsoucie richsoucie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 600rrpilot View Post
5: Grab your drain pan and put it under the left angle cylinder. You can attempt to pull the plow back but I physically couldnt. I hooked a rachet strap onto the left side of the moldboard, the other side the the frame near the hooks, and pulled the moldboard back into the frame with the rachet strap to get the fluid out of the angle cylinder. Be carefull as it will "shoot" out of the angled adapter. I just did it slowly and let the fluid drip down the cylinder into the pan. Do this until all the fluid is out and the piston is completely compressed. Now repeat on the right side. Clean the threads and reconnect the two angle cylinder hoses.
This step is much easier if you leave the plow lifted on the truck then put it down after you drain the left right cylinders
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  #9  
Old 01-20-2010, 09:12 AM
600rrpilot 600rrpilot is offline
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makes sense....thanks for the tip!
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  #10  
Old 01-20-2010, 09:39 AM
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jrjr2u jrjr2u is offline
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Just for your info, here is a video on changing and flushing angle cylinder fluid in a myers plow
Maybe once our reservoir is empty we could do this but wouldn't fluid flow out of the top of the reservoir if we tipped our plows up like this?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZExkJLPGqw8
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Last edited by jrjr2u; 01-20-2010 at 09:52 AM.
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  #11  
Old 03-08-2011, 02:03 PM
cjcocn cjcocn is offline
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You can find some pics of a fluid change at the link below.

Figured I would post this up for anyone else that wanted some visuals.

http://www.greensforum.com/showthread.php?t=54
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  #12  
Old 03-09-2011, 06:19 AM
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Bison Bison is offline
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You mean it's not suppose to "selfchange" over the summer ? :P I never thought to try to get the piston oil out . I always figured if there was condensation it would be in the tank.
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  #13  
Old 12-30-2012, 12:11 AM
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crazywelder72 crazywelder72 is offline
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I have a feeling this is part of my problem... I used hydraulic oil when i filled it a few years back. time for a good cleaning and proper oil. and i will check the brushes while i am in there. does curtis sell the brushes or do we contact the pump manufacture? its a sno-pro 3000
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