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  #1  
Old 12-24-2007, 01:13 AM
Mr.Finch Mr.Finch is offline
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Wiring diagrams pronto!!!

I just bought my first plow. it is a meyer stl-7.5 e-60 ez mount classic on 1996 f150.
Anyway. I just wnet to pick it up from the guy I bought the truck from and he said that he did not finish wiring in the headlights
I ended up driving over 50 miles in the dark with the plow about an inch off of the ground and the only light is my pass headlight just barely peaking over the plow, when the guard got cought in the wind I was luky to see ANYTHING!!
So I am looking for wiring diagrams for the lights if anyone knows were to find them I will be very greatful. If you happen to have a diagram of the rest of the wiring, I would like to check his work (he did not seam to confident in his work)
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Old 12-24-2007, 04:12 AM
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http://www.meyerproducts.com/service...t.asp?catID=13
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:44 AM
Mr.Finch Mr.Finch is offline
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So do I need to install a seperate switch for the lights, or do they run off of the light switch for the truck?
I have the touch pad controller if it makes a difference.
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:10 PM
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Old 12-24-2007, 06:04 PM
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To get the correct diagram, you first need to determine which style of plow lights you have..

Are they Night sabers with the two under hood modules?

Or are they the older Truck Lite style?
And if they're the Truck Lite style, do you have a 6 pin or a 12 pin plow light switch? (Or didn't you even get the plow light switch with it?)
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Old 12-24-2007, 08:58 PM
Mr.Finch Mr.Finch is offline
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I have the trucklite style. I do not have the switch, just a touch pad remote. The only wiring is on the pass side, I can folloow it to the drivers side truck head lite (not the plow lite). It looks like it should have another 6 prong conector for the driver's side plow lite, but i do not even see a break in the harness for one.
The only wiring I see that may go to the dash are 2 wires, I think they were green and red, but they terminate at the driver's side fender.
There are 2 more wires on the pass side that are cut right by the radiator, just below the battery.
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:02 PM
Mr.Finch Mr.Finch is offline
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If I do just redo all the wiring, wich switch should I go with, or does it not make a difference.
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Finch View Post
I have the trucklite style. I do not have the switch, just a touch pad remote. The only wiring is on the pass side, I can follow it to the drivers side truck head lite (not the plow lite). It looks like it should have another 6 prong connector for the driver's side plow lite, but i do not even see a break in the harness for one.
The only wiring I see that may go to the dash are 2 wires, I think they were green and red, but they terminate at the driver's side fender.
There are 2 more wires on the pass side that are cut right by the radiator, just below the battery.
Sounds like your missing about 75% of the harness.. and it also sounds like it was the older style wiring that was hardwired into the truck wiring..

Unless your good with wiring, I think you'd be future ahead to just go ahead and by a replacement harness and remove whats there now....

If they're the 5 pin truck Lites you can buy a universal replacement harness for $30 from Mill Supply.. or you can buy a complete kit with the harness and both new lights and all the wiring for $90. (This is also a hard wired set up).
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:34 PM
Mr.Finch Mr.Finch is offline
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I realy like to do wiring, so I am looking forward to this. The trucklites have the 6 pin connectors.
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Finch View Post
I realy like to do wiring, so I am looking forward to this. The trucklites have the 6 pin connectors.
OK, if you want to tackle it...I think I have an old 6 pin hard wired diagram around somewhere at the shop that shows the individual wires all the way through the harness... I'll see if I can find it, scan it, and post it for you Wed or Thurs.. It should be very helpful for you.
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  #11  
Old 12-24-2007, 10:59 PM
Mr.Finch Mr.Finch is offline
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Thanks B&B that could realy help. I am ASE certified in electrical, so I feal pretty confiden tin this job. I have the factory ford wiring book and have been thinking of ways to do it myself, but I figured since the PO started puting it in I would try to pick up were he left off. But since he left out more than I thought I will go with my plan a and use your diagrams to make my own harnesses.
Many thanks again.
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  #12  
Old 12-24-2007, 11:09 PM
Mr.Finch Mr.Finch is offline
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What is the difference between the 12 and 6 pin switches, does one work better in certain trucks, or with different plow controls? IF I make my own harneses (without knowing exactly how meyers switches work), it looked like I would need a 10-12 pin togle switch. (I was also looking at setting soething up using some relays that would be trigered when I turn the contoller on. Has anyone tried that before?
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Old 12-25-2007, 01:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Finch View Post
I am ASE certified in electrical, so I feel pretty confident tin this job.
Many thanks again.
Why didn't you say so.. heck this wont be too hard then... I'll draw you a hand diagram if I need too....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Finch View Post
What is the difference between the 12 and 6 pin switches, does one work better in certain trucks, or with different plow controls? IF I make my own harnesses (without knowing exactly how meyers switches work), it looked like I would need a 10-12 pin togle switch. (I was also looking at setting soething up using some relays that would be trigered when I turn the contoller on. Has anyone tried that before?
The difference in the 6 and 12 pin switches was just for different factory Meyer harness's. The older hard wired lights used a 6 pin DPDT switch, and the newer ones used a head light adapter harness (no wire splicing, plug and play) they used the 12 pin so they could control ALL the head light wires by running them through the switch.. The 12 pin harness's were just a crude adaptation before they came out with the Night Sabers that used the light modules under the hood to remotely switch the lights (basically just 3 relays in a sealed box)... sort of like what you just asked about using relays to switch the lights... you could duplicate the module set up by wiring from scratch and using 2 relays ( much like on a Western Unimount).. just takes more wiring to do the same thing remotely, but either way would be fine..
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Old 12-25-2007, 11:59 AM
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I was able to find the rest of the harness, the dooffuss had the plug for the drivers side plow lite pinched behind the truck headlite so it can't reach the bumper. Now I will have to remove the headlite mounting system (that reaches across the truck) to get it out of there.
I started tearing into the harness on the drivers side fender, about half way down from the red and green wires are the rest of them.
I am still considering going with the relay idea
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Old 12-25-2007, 04:59 PM
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OK, how many and what color wires have you come up with total?

Your color possibilities are:
Pink
Blue
Red
Brown
White
Green
Black

I'm just trying to determine how much of the harness is still there and what might be missing yet.
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  #16  
Old 12-26-2007, 10:55 PM
Mr.Finch Mr.Finch is offline
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currently I have found6 sires on the driver's fender
white,red,blue,brown,green,pink.
On the driver's side of the radiator, I have found white, yellow, and black (these are just hanging out of the harness
on the pass side of the radiator, I have found white, and yellow.
This is what I have been able to piece together from what I have found
White--lo beam feed (from light switch)
Red--Plow lite (high beam?)
Blue--High beam feed wire from light switch
Brown--truck low beam
Green--plow light (low beam?)
pink--high beam to truck headlight
Driver's side
Yellow--turn signal
black--marker light feed
white--Ground?
pass side
Yellow--turn
white--Ground ?

I think I have most of it, But I am a little uncertain as to wich wire is plow low or high beam.
From what I see of the wiring this guy did I was wondering if you may also have the diagram for the rest of the plow, I thought that the power for this thing was ign operated, but I can turn it on with the key out.
I am realy interested in if there is a wire outside the control pad that gets power as soon as you turn it on (this will help with the relay operated lighting). He has the wrest of the harness for the remote buried somewhere, other wise I would unplug it and test each one
Some of this guys work is just a joke
Thanks again B&B
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  #17  
Old 12-26-2007, 11:01 PM
Mr.Finch Mr.Finch is offline
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I am still new to plowing, but I thought that the turn signals would go through the switch also, I think I am either missing something (more wires somewhere?), or do the turnsignals for the plow and truck operate at the same time?
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  #18  
Old 12-26-2007, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Finch View Post
I am still new to plowing, but I thought that the turn signals would go through the switch also, I think I am either missing something (more wires somewhere?), or do the turn signals for the plow and truck operate at the same time?
No, the turns and parking lights go from the plow lights directly to the trucks turn and park harness.. only the hi and low beams go through and are controlled by the switch...

Let me check the colors you've found so far to try and determine what you have here... shouldn't take too much.

The control harness part is easy, I'll post the diagram for it once we get the lights straighted out...

Also the control harness power wire (should be black) should be connected to an ignition hot source only, so you know thats wired incorrect also


I know you mentioned that you'd like to control the lights with relays, which is fine, but your still going to need to activate the relays with a toggle switch of some sort. Because you have a TP controller, there isn't any way to tie into the power switch on the controller to have it trip the relays when you turn the controller on. And non of the wires in the control harness have power when the control switch is turned on, only when a function is actually pressed on the controller..Plus, if you want to turn the controller off when travailing down the road to prevent accidental blade movement, your light would go out!

Last edited by B&B; 12-26-2007 at 11:44 PM.
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  #19  
Old 12-27-2007, 12:09 AM
Mr.Finch Mr.Finch is offline
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by B&B View Post
if you want to turn the controller off when travailing down the road to prevent accidental blade movement, your light would go out!
Didn't think of that, I mostly do around town driving anywase, so the control would stay on, but the next owner would be in for a surprise, "OOOHH NOOO, circuit failure, Darn bumb a** PO, doesn't have a clue what he's doing" ha ha ha would be some sight. (actually ,no sight lol)
thanks for bringing that up though, saved me from wasting time with wiring those relays.
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  #20  
Old 12-27-2007, 12:19 AM
Mr.Finch Mr.Finch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B&B View Post
Also the control harness power wire (should be black) should be connected to an ignition hot source only, so you know thats wired incorrect also
:
That's what I thought. I am going to try to find an empty spot in the fuse box to wire it in to make it look real perty . The way he had it the wires were dragging ON the ENGINE (think he got a little to friendly with that beer)lol, I zipped it to the main harness running across the firewall to keep it safe until I do it right.
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