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  #1  
Old 02-04-2012, 09:04 PM
Antlerart06 Antlerart06 is offline
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My Homemade Cutting Edge on My MVP 9.6

5/8x8'' + I added a chunk off the old edge on the ends for wear bars
For the Center I have Rubber behind the Edge Keeps snow from falling out in the center when I do windrow 90% time I'm in scoop mode
What I have in making this
$130 in steel and my time
Took me about 2 hrs from start to finish And there was time in there letting it cool down to handle by hand
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  #2  
Old 02-05-2012, 08:21 AM
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03sd 03sd is offline
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Nice job I think im going to do this myself after pricing edges for mine.
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2012, 03:17 PM
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mishnick mishnick is offline
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You do realize that original cutting edges are not just mild steal right? Good quality cutting edges are special hard steel and heat treated. Will be interesting to know how long your edge lasts compared to an original.
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Last edited by mishnick; 02-05-2012 at 03:20 PM.
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2012, 09:46 PM
Antlerart06 Antlerart06 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishnick View Post
You do realize that original cutting edges are not just mild steal right? Good quality cutting edges are special hard steel and heat treated. Will be interesting to know how long your edge lasts compared to an original.
Well never compare after the First one I got with the plow was new it was the 1/2 and it didnt last me one winter and seeing the Cost of the V plow edge I was not going spend that for one

I know its mild steel I wasnt born yesterday
One i took off I put it on new First of jan of 2011 It was a 1/2x8'' My supplier out of 5/8''x8
Evening if takes 2 of mine to wear as long as a Harden steel edge I'm still saving money
I started to make my own when I first bought my 8.5 pro plus Think in 2003 That factory Edge then cost 250 plus the poly on the wings total was over 350 and had to drive 60 miles one way pick it up My 8.5 pro+ Cost around $110 for steel+my time
My 9.2 Boss Vplow cost $120 for steel+ my time
I'll tell more on next snow how many hrs I ran and take pic of the edge with tape on it show you what I wear i dont run shoes either
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  #5  
Old 02-05-2012, 09:54 PM
Tony350 Tony350 is offline
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Next time you make new edges make them out of hardened steel. Then you have the best of both worlds. Thats what I do when I make mine.
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  #6  
Old 02-05-2012, 10:03 PM
Antlerart06 Antlerart06 is offline
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Next time you make new edges make them out of hardened steel. Then you have the best of both worlds. Thats what I do when I make mine.
Cheaper this way and it works more money stay in my pockets
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  #7  
Old 02-06-2012, 01:28 PM
Tony350 Tony350 is offline
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Hardened steel isn't twice as much as mild steel, it is about I.5 times as much. So if you are using two of yours to one hardened you are losing money plus time to make them. And usually I can't get the bolts off and have to replace the bolts as well.

Not trying to piss you off I just checked the prices for steal in my area and hate to see you waste money thinking you are saving money.
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  #8  
Old 02-06-2012, 03:39 PM
Antlerart06 Antlerart06 is offline
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Originally Posted by Tony350 View Post
Hardened steel isn't twice as much as mild steel, it is about I.5 times as much. So if you are using two of yours to one hardened you are losing money plus time to make them. And usually I can't get the bolts off and have to replace the bolts as well.

Not trying to piss you off I just checked the prices for steal in my area and hate to see you waste money thinking you are saving money.
You not pissing me off You make good point

Factory Edge 450 1/2x6''
My edge $130 5/8x8'' double up on ends I can build 3 of them still be cheaper then buying 1 factory edge
I know here for harden steel is $75 more on top $130
First one I made was out harden steel it broke reason it broke I cut holes out and under stress + cold weather the holes crack after that I use mild steel Never broke another one

(Evening if takes 2 of mine to wear as long as a Harden steel edge I'm still saving money ) I said that to show be cheaper then a Factory edge
Mine last as long as a Factory edge
The only Test I kinda done Was with my 8.5 pro plus before my MVP
I had one with my HM Edge and Bought new 8.5 pro+
My 8.5hm edge had one snow push on it when I bought 2nd plow it came with 1/2''x6 edge
That year we had lots wet snows
When my HM edge was ready to be replace the New plow only had 1'' left on it
But the truck I ran got used more then the truck had new plow so realy wasnt a side x side test
So for true test I cant give one
I do know from my books Im spending less now
Then when I was buying factory edges
Thats all it matters at end of year what books shows
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  #9  
Old 02-06-2012, 04:01 PM
Tony350 Tony350 is offline
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I am not saying buy factory edges make them out of hardened steel. The only test I have done was with my dads plow and mine. Both are 8.5 western ultra mounts, his is a pro mine being a pro plus. He bought it used and at the start of the season he needed a new edge. I had a piece of mild steel so I put it on.
He barely got a year out of it. I was still on my factory edge it had about two seasons on it and by the end of the season I was ready for another one. Plus I plow a lot more than my father did at the time so I got almost three years to his one. Next year I put two hardened steel edges on the plow (not factory edges but hardened steel made into cutting edges) this is the third year on them, by the end of the season I will need a new one, he should get another year out of his.

Next time you are at the steel yard I would ask what the price difference is between mild and hardened, at least for me the math comes out way ahead paying a little more for the hardened and replacing it less. Especially if I figure each time change an edge I have about 13-18 dollars in hardware to replace as well. I agree paying for factory edges is kind of a rip off if you have basic tools and some time.
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  #10  
Old 02-06-2012, 07:41 PM
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mishnick mishnick is offline
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Consider this though... if you buy hardened steel in sheet form you have to cut it with a torch (heat treatment gone) and if you have to drill your own holes then your cutting tools are going to take a beating. At the factory they would cut and puch the holes first and then treat it after it's fabricated. Further to this, if they are doing a good job at the factory they will only harden the cutting edge and leave the bolt edge a bit softer so that they are not so brittle to prevent cracking. Kinda like gears in a transmission are "case hardened" meaning that the outside surface is very hard (and brittle) but the inside is softer and more maliable preventing them from shattering but still providing supirior wear qualities on the meshing surfaces. But bottom line, if your time is free and thet matirials are cheaper then that is the way to go. Personally, my time is worth money. The time I would spend doing this I could be earing $50 an hour working for someone else. Makes sense for me to buy it from the factory, spend less time changing them and spend more time plowing and doing repairs for others for money.
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Apto Quod Victum "Adapt and overcome"

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Oh and I have a plow too... a 2005 Ford F550 with Western Wide-out
Owner / operator of a landscape equipment service shop. Yea, we fix plows and sanders.
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  #11  
Old 02-06-2012, 07:53 PM
Tony350 Tony350 is offline
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No I don't buy it in sheets, 1/2 by 6'' then just drill or torch holes. I haven't ever had an issue with the steel breaking or cracking by the bolt holes. As always though life is full of the equation of time vs.money.
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2012, 07:54 PM
dave leitner dave leitner is offline
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Cutting edge

The cutting edge tony uses is 6 or 8 inches by 5/8. It comes in lengths up to 20 feet I think. It is made for loader buckets or grader blades but can be used on plows.Cutting to length and blowing holes with torch goes fast.
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  #13  
Old 02-06-2012, 08:44 PM
TJS TJS is online now
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To the OP. Do you have an iron worker to make the square holes for the carriage bolts.
Also, you can weld with hardfacing rod on the wear surface and it will give you some more wear time. I have a buddy who owns a steel shop and can get the steel required for this and can even punch the square holes in them with his massive iron worker.
T.J.
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  #14  
Old 02-06-2012, 09:33 PM
Antlerart06 Antlerart06 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJS View Post
To the OP. Do you have an iron worker to make the square holes for the carriage bolts.
Also, you can weld with hardfacing rod on the wear surface and it will give you some more wear time. I have a buddy who owns a steel shop and can get the steel required for this and can even punch the square holes in them with his massive iron worker.
T.J.
I cut the square holes out myself with a torch
No need adding hardfacing weld on it Im happy with the wear I get
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  #15  
Old 02-06-2012, 10:36 PM
Antlerart06 Antlerart06 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony350 View Post
I am not saying buy factory edges make them out of hardened steel. The only test I have done was with my dads plow and mine. Both are 8.5 western ultra mounts, his is a pro mine being a pro plus. He bought it used and at the start of the season he needed a new edge. I had a piece of mild steel so I put it on.
He barely got a year out of it. I was still on my factory edge it had about two seasons on it and by the end of the season I was ready for another one. Plus I plow a lot more than my father did at the time so I got almost three years to his one. Next year I put two hardened steel edges on the plow (not factory edges but hardened steel made into cutting edges) this is the third year on them, by the end of the season I will need a new one, he should get another year out of his.

Next time you are at the steel yard I would ask what the price difference is between mild and hardened, at least for me the math comes out way ahead paying a little more for the hardened and replacing it less. Especially if I figure each time change an edge I have about 13-18 dollars in hardware to replace as well. I agree paying for factory edges is kind of a rip off if you have basic tools and some time.
I said last post that Harden steel is 75 more then My 130 meaning would cost me 205 for harden steel The only harden steel can get is 1/2x6'' not 5/8x8''
If you get 3 years out Hard edge you must not push much snow All years I push snow when I bought Harden factory edges I be lucky get one winter out of them

I get snows like we are getting now for next 3 yrs mine will last that long
But we get snow like 2011 in jan we was getting new snow every 2 days they wont last long

Only hardware I have is Gas for the torch and wire +gas for the welder
I never tried do math on how much gas or wire I use on each edge
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  #16  
Old 02-06-2012, 10:53 PM
Antlerart06 Antlerart06 is offline
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Here the link to the thread posted on my 8.6 pro plus http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.p...t=cutting+edge

I even make my wings Since my edge is 8'' I have custom make the wing edge
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  #17  
Old 02-16-2012, 08:26 PM
Antlerart06 Antlerart06 is offline
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Well after this last Snow was first run for the new Edge and 17 hrs during storm and 4 hrs next day
I figure Plow was used at least 12 hrs I only lost 1/4''
Im keep track of the wear So I see how long my edges wear compare to harden steel
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  #18  
Old 10-30-2012, 07:05 PM
firefighter1406 firefighter1406 is offline
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Antlerart, are you still using the center rubber edge? Or did you bend something for the center?
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  #19  
Old 10-30-2012, 08:52 PM
Antlerart06 Antlerart06 is offline
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Originally Posted by firefighter1406 View Post
Antlerart, are you still using the center rubber edge? Or did you bend something for the center?
First year I made the centers used 1/2 x8 and buthad to much time in the centers
After that one I made all rest where left and right was as close I can to each other and ran 1/2 rubber for center It works for me 90% of the time Im in Scoop The list of jobs I do I have to scoop it all to one spot very little wind rowing The jobs I have that has a lot wind rowing I have my Straight plow Truck doing them
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  #20  
Old 10-30-2012, 09:00 PM
firefighter1406 firefighter1406 is offline
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Is there anyway I could get some pics? That would be awesome.
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