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  #1  
Old 01-23-2012, 08:57 PM
bluesnickers bluesnickers is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ne
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PLOW moves left, right and up, BUT won't go down!!!

I'm new to this whole plow industry and had midweight plow(ultra mount) for few years.
I didn't have problems before, this is the first.
Like I said, the plow moves up, left and right just fine but when I try to lower it,
it acts like it has no power and goes down like 2/3 very slowly.
I did changed hydraulic fluid just today to see if that helps but no luck.

Like I said, I'm very new to this and really don't know where to start.
I need like noobie's trouble shooting guide!

Any help will be appreciated!!!
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  #2  
Old 01-23-2012, 09:56 PM
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mishnick mishnick is online now
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OK my friend lets start at the basics... There are two possibilities, either there is a mechanical problem holding the plow up so gravity is not enough to pull it down or you have a hydraulic problem and the fluid is not being allowed to escape from the lift ram. If you have a little floor jack I would eliminated the mechanical problem by lifting the plow as high as possible, then remove the chain and finally drop the jack and see if the blade drops on it's own. If it doesn't want to drop on it's own then you need to take a close look at the pivot pins. The old version of the ultra-mount has no grease zerks on the end of the swivel bar where the pivot pins enter the swivel bar. Sometimes these pins rust so badly that they seize and then the plow will go up with hydraulic force but won't go down because gravity is just not strong enough. If this turns out to be the case take my advice and just buy a new swivel bar and two pivot pins because they are a bastar* to get out. Then when you put the new parts on drill and tap for grease zerks. If the plow lifts and drops without resistance then you need to look for problems with the S1 valve. This is the only valve involved in dropping the blade. The S1 is the closest valve cartraige to the front of the plow. Take the cover off, remove the coil nut, the coil and then remove the valve. It comes out just like a spark plug but if the blade is not all the way down put the jack back under or oil will fly if the fluid is under pressure. If the coil comes off with resistance the valve stem is swollen and the valve needs to be replaced. Once it is out put the coil back on and then use jumpers to connect it to a battery. You should hear a distinct click. The problem is that it is not opening fully so if it doesn't click then it is toast and needs to be replaced or possibly the coil is bad and not generating enough magnetic force to open it fully. You should see a little spark when you connect and disconnect the power. If not replace the coil and try again. If you need to read about it for yourself here is a link to the mechanic's guide for you plow. Good pics and schematics for electrical & hydraulic. http://library.westernplows.com/west...061503_web.pdf Note that it doesn't matter if you have isolation module or relay to switch your headlights because your issues are not electrical, at least at this point there is no indication of electrical.... I put my money on the seized pivot pins..... Let us know how you make out.
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Apto Quod Victum "Adapt and overcome"

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Oh and I have a plow too... a 2005 Ford F550 with Western Wide-out
Owner / operator of a landscape equipment service shop. Yea, we fix plows and sanders.

Last edited by mishnick; 01-23-2012 at 10:02 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-27-2012, 05:03 PM
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kingriver kingriver is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: alaska
Posts: 217
had similar problem with v - plow was the wiring harness on the truck side, had to order new male end and splice to wires. fixed my problem,, the way I found out it was the harness was I would hold the down button on until the float light came on then I went out and wiggled the wiring,, be careful though,,, if this is your problem and you are not well clear of the blade it can fall and land on your foot....
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  #4  
Old 01-27-2012, 05:10 PM
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kingriver kingriver is offline
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Ooooookkkkkaaaaayyyyyy

One last time I will ask this question

Western _V_ plow fluid change
the distributor used transmission fluid - snowfall here and minus 20. ouch no good for transmission fluid.... was going to install FOX 12v heater to canister but have decided against

I want to change over to Western Blue hydraulic fluid completely

Just tell me the simple way to remove all the fluid and replace without trapping air in the cylinders

I have been to westerns site and under changing fluid they dont give you information on how to change the fluid just how to check the level
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  #5  
Old 01-27-2012, 05:44 PM
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mishnick mishnick is online now
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To purge the fluid you first empty the reservoir. On a late model you take the four screws out and pull the whole can off. On an old isarmatic you have to pull the motor to do it well (or pull the plug in the bottom) Then put the plow up a bit off the floor with a jack, remove the hoses from the hydraulic unit and them move the blade back and forward until the fluid stops coming out of the hoses. Can be messy so have a buddy keep the hoses in a bucket. If you want to be anal about the air then you can do the reverse with your hoses held in a jug full of clean, new blue plow fluid. This will draw fluid up into the rams. Take the chain off the lift frame and then manually move the ram up and down to purge the old out. Same process again with the clean fluid to suck it in. Clean the magnet off, wipe out the reservoir and then refill it. Put everything back together, run it through all the cycles a few times and recheck the fluid level again. What little air is in there will work its way out and the level will drop a bit.

When I do this as a service I am not so particular. I just open the hoses, force the old fluid out, empty the reservoir and then put the hoses back on, fill it with fluid and work it. I will fill & run, fill & run three times or until the level stops dropping. I think sucking the fluid into the rams takes more time than its worth. Note, when you do it this way angle left and right with the blade just off the floor so the air comes out better not being trapped in the high end of the angle rams.

No matter what you do recheck the fluid level after the first time you actually use it to plow snow because more air will come out when you actually put pressure on the system.
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Apto Quod Victum "Adapt and overcome"

Western factory trained installer / mechanic.
Oh and I have a plow too... a 2005 Ford F550 with Western Wide-out
Owner / operator of a landscape equipment service shop. Yea, we fix plows and sanders.
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