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  #1  
Old 01-03-2012, 12:56 PM
huntinmuddin91 huntinmuddin91 is offline
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plow wont angle

we got snow i hooked up to my plow, it angled all way to left (drivers side) even hitting right figured i must of **** a coil... well only had a B (red) coil handy threw it on nothin different switched C(green) and B(red) same... so i dropped the plow threw it on the face and cant bunge the A frame dont seem to be binding at the pivot or or on the track, i dont know the difference between pin type or baLL fittings, im assuming i got the ball type cause it looks like an air line fitting, i got a e47 w/ a 7.5 foot blade, when the plow was on the motor sounded great goin up but its stuck left and the motor sounds under strain like the fluid is tryin to move just isnt allowed, the valves are not swealed or nothin. when i disconnected from plow the line was hard to remove and the pressure blew the line off when i finally released the fitting. any ideas are appreciated and thanks in advance! im callin plow shop see if they got new fittings pin type just to rule something out.
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  #2  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:07 PM
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I'd start with a C valve , check for binding caused by wear in aframe pivot or a bad coupler.
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  #3  
Old 01-03-2012, 01:19 PM
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The a valve is for lower. It sounds like you have the plow off the truck i would take the quick disconnect couplers off and try to move the plow. If it moves replace the quick disconnects. if still doesn't move look close at the king pin and see if the a-frame is worn this could cause the cylinder to hyper extend and jam.
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  #4  
Old 01-03-2012, 02:03 PM
Nesit Nesit is offline
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check the pressure relief valve. had the same thing last year
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  #5  
Old 01-03-2012, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basher View Post
I'd start with a C valve , check for binding caused by wear in aframe pivot or a bad coupler.
X2 C valve or coil is the most common problem when a Meyer will not angle. You can start by checking for magnetism at C coil (green wire). Have a friend help you or disconnect the motor harness and use something to fold the controller right. If you have magnetism C coil is good. If not coil is bad or bad connection/controller. To check the C valve, remove it, use a small allen wrench or something that fits in the small hole in the bottom of the valve. You should be able to feel the plunger inside move slightly and spring right back. If no movement replace the valve. Also check the stem of the valve for swelling.

Also did you hook the hoses together when you tried to angle it by hand?
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  #6  
Old 01-03-2012, 04:11 PM
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fordsuvparts fordsuvparts is offline
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Down load the flow chart from Meyer and it will show you all the different things that can go wrong. I bet it is the one of the following things that have already been mention in other post. Could be couplers, c-valve or c-coil, controller, wiring issues or a cylinder that is binding.
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  #7  
Old 01-03-2012, 06:01 PM
huntinmuddin91 huntinmuddin91 is offline
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im suspecting a bad cylinder? ever heard? i changed the (C) coil w/ one i had layin round yesterday just assuming, because i didnt have a partner. today i picked up new hydrolic fittings because when i flipped the board on its face it wouldnt move (w the lines connected back to each other) i even connected lines back to each other tried to nudge it off a curb last night, nothing... My plow is older and the pivot is a lil worn but still totally functional, nothing is binding on the frame, i got magnatism on the green coil.
w/ all that said i think my problem is on the plow side, instead of the pump. Weeks ago it was all in working order, this was the first snow this year.
My rams are not in great shape by no means i planned on replacing them when they started leaking cause im just cheap lol they do have pit marks, before springing for new ones i will disconnect the fittings and try to turn it that is a good idea. Do they blow a seal internally to make them not return? Or say being the A frame pivot is not factory tightness it hyper extended the ram inside itsself?
Now down on the plow side after i changed the fittings i had unbelievable pressure on the line when i tried disconnecting it, i used channels and a hammer just to release the quick connect, The pump side of the line, the ball inside was full of pressure took way more than normal force to push the ball down inside, thats another thing i noticed.
Thanks again for help
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  #8  
Old 01-03-2012, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntinmuddin91 View Post
im suspecting a bad cylinder? ever heard? i changed the (C) coil w/ one i had layin round yesterday just assuming, because i didnt have a partner. today i picked up new hydrolic fittings because when i flipped the board on its face it wouldnt move (w the lines connected back to each other) i even connected lines back to each other tried to nudge it off a curb last night, nothing... My plow is older and the pivot is a lil worn but still totally functional, nothing is binding on the frame, i got magnatism on the green coil.
w/ all that said i think my problem is on the plow side, instead of the pump. Weeks ago it was all in working order, this was the first snow this year.
My rams are not in great shape by no means i planned on replacing them when they started leaking cause im just cheap lol they do have pit marks, before springing for new ones i will disconnect the fittings and try to turn it that is a good idea. Do they blow a seal internally to make them not return? Or say being the A frame pivot is not factory tightness it hyper extended the ram inside itsself?
Now down on the plow side after i changed the fittings i had unbelievable pressure on the line when i tried disconnecting it, i used channels and a hammer just to release the quick connect, The pump side of the line, the ball inside was full of pressure took way more than normal force to push the ball down inside, thats another thing i noticed.
Thanks again for help
My old Meyer is worn also, but neither this or a bad cylinder would cause the plow to go left when right is pressed. It could cause it to get stuck there but then the left angle ram would have pressure. The quick connect will have pressure if you tried angling without the hoses hooked up or it is still trying to go only left. Next time instead of beating on the couplers just loosing the fitting to let the pressure off.

I would try removing the quick connects from the plow and see if you can angle then. Still think your C valve, not coil, is also a issue.

Since your rams were leaking did you try tightening the packing nuts? If so you may have over tightened them.
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  #9  
Old 01-07-2012, 02:03 PM
huntinmuddin91 huntinmuddin91 is offline
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i got to mess w/ it today for a little bit disconnected the lines and threw a shoulder in it w/ no luck. I unbolted the rams from A frame the frame moves great, unfortunatly i cant get either ram to even budge??? i was plannin on throwin the pass. side ram in the press but ran out of time i have a feeling the driver side might be bad but not sure, find it kinda odd that 2 rams go at once...
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  #10  
Old 01-07-2012, 02:08 PM
huntinmuddin91 huntinmuddin91 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimber750 View Post
Since your rams were leaking did you try tightening the packing nuts? If so you may have over tightened them.
My rams arent leaking just yet, they just have pits in them wont be long till they do though. no i havnt messed w/ the nuts.
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  #11  
Old 01-07-2012, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntinmuddin91 View Post
i got to mess w/ it today for a little bit disconnected the lines and threw a shoulder in it w/ no luck. I unbolted the rams from A frame the frame moves great, unfortunatly i cant get either ram to even budge??? i was plannin on throwin the pass. side ram in the press but ran out of time i have a feeling the driver side might be bad but not sure, find it kinda odd that 2 rams go at once...
If the hoses are not connected back to themselves it is not going to move. The fluid needs somewhere to go. Even with the hoses connected together it will be very difficult to move if you have them unbolted from the moldboard.

Try this, bolt the rams back to the moldboard. Remove the hoses from the rams. Now try to move the moldboard. If it does move, it is going to shoot fluid out so stay clear of the rams.


Where in PA?
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2012, 08:00 PM
huntinmuddin91 huntinmuddin91 is offline
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sorry i mis. explained my self... i unbolted the lines from the rams is what i meant w/ no luck and did one ram at time, i have tied lines together on this plow before and moved it, i know about how much force it takes, but the doc finally found out i herniated a disc about a yr ago (at 26yrs old i need a different job) and hurts like crap to push on it when nothing will move! lol,.... but two months ago i did it when plow was good to go, i park the plow up the barn and was grabbin material for work sunday so for 5 min i screwed w/ it again and got the drivers side to free up ( the compressed side) didnt have the time to throw the pass. side in the press to see what she does. im workin a full time job and do side work in evenings/weekends wile jugglin a family so its hit and miss when i get a couple minutes to work on it and am sorry about the delayed responses but the mild weather we been havin is great for construction... i gotta get it, while the gettins good. After i see what that other cylinder does im thinkin about ordering a C valve and two rams from angelos, unless theres a cheaper place? but they crush my local prices, weather the valve or ram went bad, parts are parts they will always be there and down time costs more in the long run
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  #13  
Old 01-09-2012, 08:04 PM
huntinmuddin91 huntinmuddin91 is offline
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im north of pittsburgh few miles from state line
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  #14  
Old 01-10-2012, 11:31 AM
t-sig t-sig is offline
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Huntin,

I destroyed the rams on my plow because they were over extending at full angle. When the plow is angled all the way left or right, it should hit stops that are welded to the frame. If it doesn't hit those stops, it will pull the seals on the back of the piston up into retainer that is screwed into the end of the cylinder. In my case, it had 10" rams and should have had 12" rams on it. I couldn't angle my plow without driving up against a telephone pole. Have you noticed any issues with angling before this?
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  #15  
Old 01-10-2012, 05:07 PM
leolkfrm leolkfrm is offline
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check out the video on how to flush the cyl on the smith brothers site....he didn't have to strain much to move them
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  #16  
Old 01-15-2012, 04:54 PM
huntinmuddin91 huntinmuddin91 is offline
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i threw long one in press and got it back movin not exactly sure what its problem was?, but ill limp it along till it goes... the A frame is movin good again .C valve is bad its not swelled, i think the pin stuck didnt have time to rip in it just ordered another one should be here in another day or so.
Another question... was talkin to a a very good old school mechanic complainin bout how much meyers fluid was, He said use dexron fluid (Auto tranny fluid).... im sceptical... i got a 2 ton under body dump bed on my work truck i run either hydrolic fluid or dexron what i find first, done it for years. On track,hos and dozers at work we run heavy heavy epuipment Hyd. fluid, i think its just expensive AT Fluid But their footin that bill, Whats some input on that?
Thanks again for the help on my plow, new to plows, id be lost w/out you guys and this site!
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  #17  
Old 01-15-2012, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntinmuddin91 View Post
i threw long one in press and got it back movin not exactly sure what its problem was?, but ill limp it along till it goes... the A frame is movin good again .C valve is bad its not swelled, i think the pin stuck didnt have time to rip in it just ordered another one should be here in another day or so.
Another question... was talkin to a a very good old school mechanic complainin bout how much meyers fluid was, He said use dexron fluid (Auto tranny fluid).... im sceptical... i got a 2 ton under body dump bed on my work truck i run either hydrolic fluid or dexron what i find first, done it for years. On track,hos and dozers at work we run heavy heavy epuipment Hyd. fluid, i think its just expensive AT Fluid But their footin that bill, Whats some input on that?
Thanks again for the help on my plow, new to plows, id be lost w/out you guys and this site!
Only use the correct fluid for your meyer pump. These pumps are not big fans of ATF.
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  #18  
Old 01-29-2012, 07:29 PM
leolkfrm leolkfrm is offline
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napa has a compatable plow oil a litle cheaper
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  #19  
Old 01-30-2012, 01:24 PM
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Boomer123 Boomer123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimber750 View Post
Only use the correct fluid for your meyer pump. These pumps are not big fans of ATF.
X2 it's not worth the little savings using something other than Meyer fluid.
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  #20  
Old 02-03-2012, 05:07 AM
leolkfrm leolkfrm is offline
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did you get it fixed...again i learned the hard way....would not go right ...change the usual problem parts....found out my slickstick is wore and only powering the pump not the c coil.....diagnostics would find this....
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