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  #1  
Old 03-24-2011, 09:03 PM
in10mid8r in10mid8r is offline
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Meyers E-60 coil removal

I need some help. I am trying to install new elbows and quick connectors on the valve block. I need to remove one coil to turn the elbow out. I took the nut off the center and I can not seem to get the coil out. I tapped on it a little but don't want to break anything. Is there a trick to getting this out of my way?
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Old 03-24-2011, 11:05 PM
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B&B B&B is offline
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That would be the C coil and valve assembly. And when the coil is tough to remove that means the valve stem is swollen thus the valve and coil should be replaced. Otherwise it'll only be a matter of time before it begins to cause angling issue if you don't have them already. It's a super super common thing on the Meyer units.
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Old 03-25-2011, 12:01 AM
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racer47 racer47 is offline
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it might just be stuck .try to tap screw driver under it from side to side and keep working it if worst comes to worst channel locks turn .chances are 50 50 you can get coil off without destroying it but you have little choice at least nut didnt break off .. if that happens you can drill out 1/4 inch and tap valve and put stud on them .. once you get coil off check valve to see if its swelled if so replace ... add little grease to valve to keep from sticken .also you should clean and grease the outher coils they should all come right off beleave me you dont want one stuck at 3 am in middle of snow storm if so you might want to get the spare out from behind the seat .. been their few times now i never leave to plow without spare coils and spare pump
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Old 03-25-2011, 05:52 AM
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basher basher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B&B View Post
That would be the C coil and valve assembly. And when the coil is tough to remove that means the valve stem is swollen thus the valve and coil should be replaced. Otherwise it'll only be a matter of time before it begins to cause angling issue if you don't have them already. It's a super super common thing on the Meyer units.
Funny I just made the same comments in the other thread he started on this same topic
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  #5  
Old 03-25-2011, 01:42 PM
in10mid8r in10mid8r is offline
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thanks for the help guys. I was informed that I posted it in the wrong place so, I put another one up. sorry about double post but I could not seem to figure out how to delete the first post. Thanks alot and I will keep working it.
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  #6  
Old 03-25-2011, 01:56 PM
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racer47 racer47 is offline
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well did it come off or is it scrape the coil and valve .if you try putting new coil on and it dont slide right on the valve is scrape hope ya got it fixed.... dont feel lost i havent figured out all their is on this site either but i love it.. lots good stuff to read up on lots of great knowledge on here

Last edited by racer47; 03-25-2011 at 02:01 PM.
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  #7  
Old 03-27-2011, 04:16 PM
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NickT NickT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer47 View Post
it might just be stuck .try to tap screw driver under it from side to side and keep working it if worst comes to worst channel locks turn .chances are 50 50 you can get coil off without destroying it but you have little choice at least nut didnt break off .. if that happens you can drill out 1/4 inch and tap valve and put stud on them .. once you get coil off check valve to see if its swelled if so replace ... add little grease to valve to keep from sticken .also you should clean and grease the outher coils they should all come right off beleave me you dont want one stuck at 3 am in middle of snow storm if so you might want to get the spare out from behind the seat .. been their few times now i never leave to plow without spare coils and spare pump
Racer what type of grease should be used? I have marine grade wheel bearing grease in my shop is that ok?
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  #8  
Old 03-27-2011, 08:11 PM
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racer47 racer47 is offline
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any type grease will do. take steal brush to top of valves studs to get rust off.. add little grease if nuts are all rusted putt new ones on apply little grease and just snug nuts that way when one take a dump on ya you can get off without breaking studs off valves .i clean mine after every season..change fluids clean filters to.. we plow 25 commercial lots no residential.but mine i do all my own work on trucks and plows and spreaders... we run 1 bobcat 763 when needed yamaha 660 grizzly with 60 inch moose plow for are big box stores walks 98 chevy 8 ft with wings 95 chevy 8ft with wings meyers e60 pumps lights ezmount set ups with western conventional pro plows. 94chevy 1 ton dulley with 8 ft curtis snow pro 3000 with wings.. all are 4by4.all are gas. run snowex 1075 -575 and western 1000 salt spreaders run 24 skids this winter if you want to make money at it you have to take care of your stuff dont have to be new just looked after and maintained.. good luck with the plowing .. drinkup: if your not sure how to maintain your pump get a manual it will be money well spent. look on ebay or go to meyers and download it
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  #9  
Old 03-29-2011, 06:01 PM
in10mid8r in10mid8r is offline
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Got everything a part with some time and working that coiling little by little. Cleaned everything up and put new elbows and quick connectors on. Put everything together and put it on the truck. Seems to be working fine. This was a pump I got from a friend and he said it did not work. I am learning about these pumps as I go. All info from you guys is a great help and learning exp. Thanks
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  #10  
Old 03-29-2011, 06:03 PM
in10mid8r in10mid8r is offline
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I guess that I need to know if everything should be replaced. I just really wanted to see if the pump worked? Any comments would be nice.
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  #11  
Old 03-29-2011, 06:22 PM
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NickT NickT is offline
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Pickup a o ring kit it comes with the seals and o rings for the oil reservoir make sure the ram is in good shape no rust marks
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