some guys remove the muffler, and put a bypass pipe in. others put a larger system on. i noticed a difference with the 4 inch turbo back system with high flow muffler.
it is still a little loud, but nowhere near as loud as with no muffler.
You can put fuel additive in I do to every few tanks and make sure you add some anti jell in the winter to the fuel. I would do a 4" turbo back exhaust. And like everyone else said keep up on the maintenance and fix what needs to be fixed and you will be good.
__________________
2000 Ford F250 Powerstroke
Plow: 8' Fisher HD Minute Mount
The shifter linkage will be loose every 2 months, I even loc-tited mine the second time, and it's loose again. And it's in a miserable spot to get at.
Put a transmission temp guage in, a quality guage. Heat will kill it.
On Ebay, there's a guy who sells glow plug relays that are better quality and will last 20x longer than the stock set up. They go for like $50, and come with a switch and instructions on how to re-wire it to be a manual rather than the stock "8 second auto-cycle". Buy it, install it. Now you don't have to plug it in. Just leave the GPR switched on for like 45 seconds. It will start. If it runs rough at first, hold the switch on for a few seconds and it will run a lot smoother.
The hydro-boost line that runs from the brakes to the cooler will rub on the steering shaft, and can fail.
When it does, you can't drive it. No power steering, no brakes. So find out if it's rubbing.
The engine oil cooler is on the side of the engine, under the driver's side exhaust manifold. It's a round section of tin between two aluminum housings.
It will rust through, and if you happen to be driving when it does....bad scene. I came out of the store and saw a puddle under mine, which thank God, was shut off about the exact time it let go it seems.
If you look in there (over the tire and under the inner fender) and see it all pitted and pock-marked, just bite the bullet have it replaced. It cost me $500 parts and labor.
While they are in there, have the heating element replaced (The one you plug in over-night).
If the water pump goes, no big deal. They are as easy to change as they were on a 1960's small block. Just need to remove the fan and shroud.
The heater core is easy IF you have the tool that releases the quick connects @ the firewall. Youtube has vids on both the water pump and the heater core.
If you are tossing firewood into the back, and have the doors open to listen to the radio, ROLL THE WINDOWS DOWN. Ask me why. Again, easy as pie to replace the window glass.
The fuel filter is expensive @ NAPA, and you can not take it out and re-use the rubber O-ring. It gets distorted and will never seal again.
When you do replace the filter, and you will, open the drain, remove the filter, close the drain, pour straight power service in the housing, about 1/3 full, and pop the new filter in. When you turn it over, if it doesn't start easily, open the drain, turn on the key so the pump runs, jump back up and shut the drain off when it starts pouring fuel out. It'll start soon after that.
They like to leak oil from the o-rings on the HPOP, and the o-rings are about $0.89 each. But changing them is a job for the shop IMO.
When you have it worked on, drive right past the Ford dealer. Find an international dealership. They will know everything there is to know, way better than a Ford tech that took a 2 day class, and usually charge less.
I will add more as I recall it.
Great truck, it will work hard for you. But it's a work truck, it will need love eventually, so don't be scared by my post here.
__________________
2012 F250 4x4, 6.2 gas, 9'6" Fisher Xtreme V
2000 F550 4x4, 7.3 diesel, 9' Fisher
1989 John Deere 648D D/A Grapple for the big jobs
The shifter linkage will be loose every 2 months, I even loc-tited mine the second time, and it's loose again. And it's in a miserable spot to get at.
i did mine 5 years ago, and replaced the tube in my nephews truck 3-4 years ago. they are still both tight.
Put a transmission temp guage in, a quality guage. Heat will kill it.
change the oil and filter every 30-35k miles. i have 182,000 miles on mine, the 28 in the old job all had over 300,000 miles on the original transmissions. the stock gauge works fine.
On Ebay, there's a guy who sells glow plug relays that are better quality and will last 20x longer than the stock set up. They go for like $50, and come with a switch and instructions on how to re-wire it to be a manual rather than the stock "8 second auto-cycle". Buy it, install it. Now you don't have to plug it in. Just leave the GPR switched on for like 45 seconds. It will start. If it runs rough at first, hold the switch on for a few seconds and it will run a lot smoother.
put the stancor relay in for $51 and you will never need to replace it again.
The hydro-boost line that runs from the brakes to the cooler will rub on the steering shaft, and can fail.
When it does, you can't drive it. No power steering, no brakes. So find out if it's rubbing.
The engine oil cooler is on the side of the engine, under the driver's side exhaust manifold. It's a round section of tin between two aluminum housings.
It will rust through, and if you happen to be driving when it does....bad scene. I came out of the store and saw a puddle under mine, which thank God, was shut off about the exact time it let go it seems.
If you look in there (over the tire and under the inner fender) and see it all pitted and pock-marked, just bite the bullet have it replaced. It cost me $500 parts and labor.
While they are in there, have the heating element replaced (The one you plug in over-night).
If the water pump goes, no big deal. They are as easy to change as they were on a 1960's small block. Just need to remove the fan and shroud.
The heater core is easy IF you have the tool that releases the quick connects @ the firewall. Youtube has vids on both the water pump and the heater core.
If you are tossing firewood into the back, and have the doors open to listen to the radio, ROLL THE WINDOWS DOWN. Ask me why. Again, easy as pie to replace the window glass.
The fuel filter is expensive @ NAPA, and you can not take it out and re-use the rubber O-ring. It gets distorted and will never seal again.
fuel filter is $45.99 and with good fuel will last for 10,000 miles with no problems
When you do replace the filter, and you will, open the drain, remove the filter, close the drain, pour straight power service in the housing, about 1/3 full, and pop the new filter in. When you turn it over, if it doesn't start easily, open the drain, turn on the key so the pump runs, jump back up and shut the drain off when it starts pouring fuel out. It'll start soon after that.
pull the old filter out, drop the new one in. it will fire rite up
They like to leak oil from the o-rings on the HPOP, and the o-rings are about $0.89 each.
28 trucks all with over 300,000 miles on them, and never saw this
But changing them is a job for the shop IMO.
When you have it worked on, drive right past the Ford dealer. Find an international dealership. They will know everything there is to know, way better than a Ford tech that took a 2 day class, and usually charge less.
or you can do it yourself and save all the money.
I will add more as I recall it.
Great truck, it will work hard for you. But it's a work truck, it will need love eventually, so don't be scared by my post here.
Whatever you say. But I know what happened with mine, and with my good friend's.
Oh, one more thing. The fuel tanks will rot out because the skid plate traps cultch. Drop the skid and clean it, then fluid film it. Also, keep a close eye on it for rocks that get trapped in between there. I have seen several rub holes right through.
__________________
2012 F250 4x4, 6.2 gas, 9'6" Fisher Xtreme V
2000 F550 4x4, 7.3 diesel, 9' Fisher
1989 John Deere 648D D/A Grapple for the big jobs
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