Sorry for the delay, mind you its not done yet but you can get the basics of it from these pics. I have yet to build the base but the piece of round bar is a shaft I made on my lathe for a drum chipper. the base will house the bearings so it turns nice and easy.
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1994 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 8 1/2' Western Conventional
This is the male end. My old man built this at least 35 years ago. He would pull transmissions and engines out of tractor trailers from his 48 Chevy flatbed work truck. There is the thrust washer as well. It is an air over hyd. set up. I think I am going to refurbish it someday.
This is the female end that was welded to the bed and frame as well.
I use the Harbor Freight crane to lift oak logs that are six to eight foot long and one foot + thich all day long and the only trouble I had was the swedge that holds the hook on let go. I replaced the winch with a 2000 lb. electric and it works fine. Mounted it on a plate off my class three hitch. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...nch-37555.html
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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
I went with the pipe within a pipe method, I do have a bearing on top inside.
I'm not sure if I could lift 1500 lbs though without bending my truck frame. I have my base bolted through the frame.
nice this is pretty much what mine is going to look like when its done. I'm curious to know if you bought the bottle jack like that or you had to weld the clevis on the bottom of it.
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1994 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 8 1/2' Western Conventional
I went with the pipe within a pipe method, I do have a bearing on top inside.
I'm not sure if I could lift 1500 lbs though without bending my truck frame. I have my base bolted through the frame.
That type of bottle jack is really designed to be in a verticle position for lifting. The cast base and pistion cylinder are not designed to be side loaded like your lift is doing to it. I know it has probably lifted and been used many times with out a problem but damage can build over time and cause a serious failure.
Cut a trailer axle to length, mount it vertically with the "wheel side" down, bolted to the bed. ???
I have thought of this and it should work, think about how much stress and weight is on an axle. I figured bolting a spindle to a plate mounted through the bed to the frame and the lift could be bolted to the hub. This way you pull a couple nuts and you can remove the lift. One could even leave one stud out of the hub and drill holes into the plate below, then drop a pin down through to keep the lift from moving around.
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2006 Chevy 2500HD ECSB D-Max with 8' Fisher, 6.5 Stainless sander or Buyers hitch salter
2002 GMC 1500 RCLB with 7.5' Fisher 5.3, dump insert, truck is named "the turd".
SOLD and missed. 2006 Chevy 2500HD RCLB D-Max, 8' Fisher
That type of bottle jack is really designed to be in a verticle position for lifting. The cast base and pistion cylinder are not designed to be side loaded like your lift is doing to it. I know it has probably lifted and been used many times with out a problem but damage can build over time and cause a serious failure.
Actually if he turned the jack around 180deg and kept the pump mechanism submerged it would last just fine.
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2006 Chevy 2500HD ECSB D-Max with 8' Fisher, 6.5 Stainless sander or Buyers hitch salter
2002 GMC 1500 RCLB with 7.5' Fisher 5.3, dump insert, truck is named "the turd".
SOLD and missed. 2006 Chevy 2500HD RCLB D-Max, 8' Fisher
That type of bottle jack is really designed to be in a verticle position for lifting. The cast base and pistion cylinder are not designed to be side loaded like your lift is doing to it. I know it has probably lifted and been used many times with out a problem but damage can build over time and cause a serious failure.
How can something that is mounted via pins be side loaded?
The only possible problem with the orientation is you won't necessarily be able to make full use of the hydraulic reservoir........
Linear Mode
