Last year I did a rookie install of a fisher MM2 to my '03 chev 2500 HD 6.0 liter wiring the accessory wire to the "cruise" fuse on the side of the dash. Ever since that install I seem to have issues with the truck going dead once in a while for no reason whether the plow is hooked up or not. I unhooked the hand held controller a few times without switching it to off and the truck would be dead the next day every time. I then started turning the controller off before unplugging and it seemed to work until I went to turn the truck on the other day in 50 degree temps and the battery was once again dead. Mind you I hadn't even thought about the plow at that point since last year so that wasn't a factor. I replaced the battery last year when this all started happening so that should at least be ruled out (or so I think).
I had a mechanic test the alternator last winter when this first started and he said it was charging normally. At this point I'm at a loss, I have no idea whats causing the problem. Most of the time when I start my truck its cranks at a low speed but has enough juice to start. Once in a while it will crank with the normal power a new battery would have but thats rare. Also last night when returning home I pulled into my driveway and turned the wheels to park while not rolling and noticed the engine idle drop substantially, the lights dim slightly and the blower on the heat drop down while I had it blasting on high. I put the truck in reverse to park and it did it again without straining the engine by turning the wheels.
At this point I'm not sure if the problem is related to my rookie plow install as the problems occurred right after that or if its a coincidence and the 10 year old truck is starting to show its age. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!
Have your battery and alternator checked again. For $40 or so you can get a load tester, you can also check the charging system with it. Most auto parts places will do it for free though. Check all of your grounds too. That is where I would start for the voltage drop. Not sure on the no start issue.
These type of problems can be difficult to track down. I'd start with the most basic like a computerized battery test which can be done at no charge many places, including Walmart. If alternator also checks out (not just charging, but also diode test), you may have the phenomenon called parasitic battery drain. Just search that on the google or this site and you'll find a lot of useful info.
You more than likely have something on the plow wired to a circuit that's always on. I did this on my Meyers set up cause I was too lazy to tap in to the ignition circuit. I just hard wired it. So for example, when I leave the switch turned to ON for the plow lights, the change over modules stay ON all the time and drain both batteries overnight. Once I figured that out, I just make sure to flip the toggle off for the plow lights and all is well. I'd be willing to bet you did something similar. Think about what all you wired and where you tapped in to. HTH
Well how do you know that where you tapped into pwr its not always on with the key off. Also as what was stated you need to do a patsitic draw test. I would start with a batt test tho, before the parasitic test
Well how do you know that where you tapped into pwr its not always on with the key off. Also as what was stated you need to do a patsitic draw test. I would start with a batt test tho, before the parasitic test
I agree. Wow someone on here that has a clue. Ive seen quite a few where the on star moodules would not go to sleep on occasion causing a parasitic draw. With a tech 2 u can ping the modules and watch the go to sleep after the set time.
I know where I tapped into isn't constantly drawing because I used the test light before hooking it up. As far as the module you are talking about, is that the 4 port isolation module for the plow? I got all the truck side parts used and the iso module was one of them. When I got everything hooked up I noticed the low beams don't work on the plow, the passenger side headlight on the truck comes on but the driver side remains off. If I switch the brights on both lights on the plow illuminate and the headlights on the truck turn off like they should. Instead of creating a bigger problem then I already have I just left it that way and decided to plow with the brights on during the night if need be. Also both parking lights illuminate on the plow when hooked up because my father's friend who is the head mechanic for a local municipality hard wired them into the trucks wiring.
I'd have him go over the truck as he is more than capable but hes really busy and don't want to bother him with my BS. Is there a chance the isolation module is no good and the source to all my probs? Thanks again to all who are posting comments to help!!!
Well how do you know that where you tapped into pwr its not always on with the key off. Also as what was stated you need to do a patsitic draw test. I would start with a batt test tho, before the parasitic test
Well, take a look at a wiring diagram for starters to find something switched off the ignition. Then verify with a test light or a DMM that there's no power with the key out, but has power with the key on....I personally just ran everything to a breaker hard wired right to the aux battery, that's how I know it's always "on" or at least "hot". I didn't realize the change over modules would stay on, even though it makes perfect sense they do, I just wasn't thinking. It's
simple enough for not having a clue.
I know where I tapped into isn't constantly drawing because I used the test light before hooking it up. As far as the module you are talking about, is that the 4 port isolation module for the plow? I got all the truck side parts used and the iso module was one of them. When I got everything hooked up I noticed the low beams don't work on the plow, the passenger side headlight on the truck comes on but the driver side remains off. If I switch the brights on both lights on the plow illuminate and the headlights on the truck turn off like they should. Instead of creating a bigger problem then I already have I just left it that way and decided to plow with the brights on during the night if need be. Also both parking lights illuminate on the plow when hooked up because my father's friend who is the head mechanic for a local municipality hard wired them into the trucks wiring.
I'd have him go over the truck as he is more than capable but hes really busy and don't want to bother him with my BS. Is there a chance the isolation module is no good and the source to all my probs? Thanks again to all who are posting comments to help!!!
The modules I'm referring to are the nite saber headlight change over modules. Two little relays that are wired to a toggle in the cab of the truck. This selects either the truck headlights or the plow head lights and only allows one set at a time to be turned on. I assume Fisher uses something similar. But either way, I wired them off a breaker that is always "hot" so the modules stay switched on if the toggle in the cab is left on. The headlights are all off, just the models stay on which is enough to drain the battery overnight.
I had something very similar happen with my plow lights when I installed my Meyer. Now I know you're using a Fisher so take this for what it's worth. But I ended up swapping the change over modules from passenger to driver side and vice versa, and problem solved. Everything worked properly. This was after a few hours of studying the diagram, and triple checking all my connections. Nothing made sense cause I installed everything correctly and on paper, it shoulda worked fine. But for whatever reason, the modules were "truck side" specific. Again, this was with a Meyers so I'm not sure if this will help you any but hopefully it does
Ive seen quite a few where the on star moodules would not go to sleep on occasion causing a parasitic draw. With a tech 2 u can ping the modules and watch the go to sleep after the set time.
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