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  #161  
Old 10-29-2012, 02:12 PM
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DieselSlug DieselSlug is offline
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I should prolly do this on my 94, would make me sleep better at night. Has had a 7.5 foot Fisher since new and luckily no cracks there yet. I do have a small rot hole on the inside of the frame that will get patched in a few weeks.
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  #162  
Old 10-29-2012, 08:36 PM
bizzo15 bizzo15 is offline
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I have a set of the '88-98 gussets from B&B that I don't need anymore. $55 shipped to anyone who wants them.
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  #163  
Old 10-29-2012, 10:41 PM
Tinstar Tinstar is offline
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B&B, I am very new to posting, replying etc on this site. I have read and learned a bunch and appreciate it very much. Apparently I am unable to PM. Im looking into the specifics of the PM thing but until then, is there another way to contact you about getting the gussets?

Thanks!
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  #164  
Old 10-31-2012, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Tinstar View Post
B&B, I am very new to posting, replying etc on this site. I have read and learned a bunch and appreciate it very much. Apparently I am unable to PM. Im looking into the specifics of the PM thing but until then, is there another way to contact you about getting the gussets?

Thanks!
You've been a member plenty long enough but you also need ten posts to enable the PM functions. So you just need a few more.
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  #165  
Old 11-03-2012, 08:01 PM
South Seneca South Seneca is online now
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Let's bump this one back up for those who missed it.
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  #166  
Old 11-04-2012, 10:44 AM
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CAT 245ME CAT 245ME is offline
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I'm gonna have the welder at work put in gussets on my 03 2500HD this week. I was wondering if I just need to have the one gusset behind the upper A arm or would it be wise to add the three (per side) like what was done in the pics of the 88-98 frame a couple pages back.
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  #167  
Old 11-04-2012, 11:23 AM
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After reading a gusset thread I thought I would get a jump on it before I put the truck into commercial plowing. And low and behold it was already starting to crack! These frame areas are designed as crush zones if you were to get in a wreck this is where the frame would give. Well plowing is like simulating a small crash every push! Not a very good design for a plow truck. But the gusset was simple enough...shoulda bought a ford
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  #168  
Old 11-14-2012, 07:00 PM
SNAKEBIT SNAKEBIT is offline
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So it looks like I need to add this to my list,
plow goin on 2008 Chev 1500
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  #169  
Old 11-14-2012, 08:29 PM
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I got my gussets from bizzo last week. Need to save some cash to pay a welder to install on my 94.
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  #170  
Old 11-15-2012, 06:00 PM
South Seneca South Seneca is online now
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These truck frames are built to fold up to absorb energy in a crash. Unfortunately plowing often finds those built in weak areas. These gussets are a must have.
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  #171  
Old 11-15-2012, 07:17 PM
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...shoulda bought a ford
I hope you don't think they dont have issues. Including cracking frames.....
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  #172  
Old 11-16-2012, 10:29 AM
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I hope you don't think they dont have issues. Including cracking frames.....
Fords dont have have any issues! haha, no whenever you turn a pickup into a dozer you are bound to have some repercussions. My ford just seems to be built a litte more heavy duty. I recently just had my 4x4 go out on my chevy and learned all about that heat actuated front actuator thingy. and I thought jeeps vacuum actuators were bad.....
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  #173  
Old 11-16-2012, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Alaskaforby4 View Post
Fords dont have have any issues! haha, no whenever you turn a pickup into a dozer you are bound to have some repercussions. My ford just seems to be built a litte more heavy duty. I recently just had my 4x4 go out on my chevy and learned all about that heat actuated front actuator thingy. and I thought jeeps vacuum actuators were bad.....
My thermo-actuator is slow, i picked up an electronic actuator from the junkyard and now i have to buy the harness for plug and play..
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1994 Silverado 6.5 Diesel R/C L/B K2500 Not your average 6.5
1994 Fisher Minute Mount Plow 7 1/2 Foot. (Full Hydraulic) Buyers Pro-Wings
Holset WH1C, Chipped and Home Built. 260,000 Miles.
Rebuilt Engine @ 204,000 Miles
Rebuilt 4L80E @ 241,000 Miles
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  #174  
Old 11-16-2012, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Alaskaforby4 View Post
Fords dont have have any issues! haha, no whenever you turn a pickup into a dozer you are bound to have some repercussions. My ford just seems to be built a litte more heavy duty. I recently just had my 4x4 go out on my chevy and learned all about that heat actuated front actuator thingy. and I thought jeeps vacuum actuators were bad.....
Obviously,you got one of those special Fords that don't eat up ball joints every 40K miles,or having to replace a rotted out oil pan to the tune of $2K,or one of those that can serve as a double duty[NOT related to Super doody] flame thrower,or one of those that eats up brake pads often,or one that has constant turbo issues,etc,etc.

We all know the score here so please stop.ALL trucks have their issues,just that Ford actually circles the problem:
http://www.smartautosavings.com/imag...gif?1352931384
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  #175  
Old 11-16-2012, 12:22 PM
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Yup, got the special one. I dont know why anyone would buy the kind you are talking about!
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  #176  
Old 11-16-2012, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskaforby4 View Post
Fords dont have have any issues! haha, no whenever you turn a pickup into a dozer you are bound to have some repercussions. My ford just seems to be built a litte more heavy duty. I recently just had my 4x4 go out on my chevy and learned all about that heat actuated front actuator thingy. and I thought jeeps vacuum actuators were bad.....
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Originally Posted by DieselSlug View Post
My thermo-actuator is slow, i picked up an electronic actuator from the junkyard and now i have to buy the harness for plug and play..
Remove the actuator from the axle housing, stuff a 3/8 drive socket or old lug nut in there, and reinstall the actuator but do not connect the wiring.

INSTANT 4wd when you push the button or pull the lever.
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As for your question, the only thing you missed is him answering the question you posed and him completely ignoring the fact that he didn't answer it. .

When you hear hoofbeats look for horses, not zebras.
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  #177  
Old 11-16-2012, 11:15 PM
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Remove the actuator from the axle housing, stuff a 3/8 drive socket or old lug nut in there, and reinstall the actuator but do not connect the wiring.

INSTANT 4wd when you push the button or pull the lever.
Yeah, I did that method for awhile but I travel on the roads at high speeds at times. When I flushed my diff oil for maintenance this year I found 5 or 6 small 1/2 a match head size metal chunks. So I decided to go back to the actuator method to get every last bit of possible life out of her.
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  #178  
Old 11-19-2012, 01:01 PM
jasonv jasonv is offline
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But the gusset was simple enough...shoulda bought a ford
Ford: They bend UP in the middle:


GM: They bend DOWN in the middle:



Don't know about you guys, but this frame just doesn't look adequate for a full size truck;

(That's a ford 150 BTW)
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  #179  
Old 11-19-2012, 01:22 PM
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Yeah, I did that method for awhile but I travel on the roads at high speeds at times. When I flushed my diff oil for maintenance this year I found 5 or 6 small 1/2 a match head size metal chunks. So I decided to go back to the actuator method to get every last bit of possible life out of her.
Even with the actuator out the side gears and spider gears are still spinning....
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Originally Posted by dfd9
As for your question, the only thing you missed is him answering the question you posed and him completely ignoring the fact that he didn't answer it. .

When you hear hoofbeats look for horses, not zebras.
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  #180  
Old 11-19-2012, 02:05 PM
jasonv jasonv is offline
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For any vehicle where it is a POSSIBLE upgrade, I highly recommend manual unlocking hubs. Summer driving / DD, there is no need for 4wd, so you might as well stop as much junk from spinning as you can. Save a bit of gas while reducing wear and extending fluid change interval.
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