Register free!
Search
 
     

Click for Weather
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-13-2012, 01:36 PM
Maclawnco's Avatar
Maclawnco Maclawnco is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: OH
Posts: 332
Changing oil pan on 7.3?

Mechanic just called and said our new 7.3 will need an oil pan. Is there a way to change it without pulling the motor? Any tricks or suggestions are welcome.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-13-2012, 01:51 PM
Mark13's Avatar
Mark13 Mark13 is online now
2000 Club Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Snowless IL.
Posts: 5,354
Pulling the motor is the correct way to do it. There's other ways to do it but I'd be worried about getting surfaces clean enough, the pan sealing right, etc with the motor still in the truck and oil trying to leak out.
__________________

Chevy 2500HD
Takeuchi TL230

Quote:
Originally Posted by birddseedd View Post
and I thought I was stupid
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-13-2012, 02:05 PM
Morrissey snow removal's Avatar
Morrissey snow removal Morrissey snow removal is online now
PlowSite.com Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: lunenburg, ma
Posts: 1,800
u got pull the motor last one i did we pulled it had it done in a long day but also did manifolds while had it out
__________________
Ford Trucks
Fisher Plows
ice o way Sanders
Caterpillar Equipment
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-13-2012, 02:36 PM
goel's Avatar
goel goel is offline
PlowSite.com Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Guelph, Milton, Waterdown, Burlington On
Posts: 1,079
^^. Yep. Gives you a chance to fix the little crap at the same time. Might seem costly but do it right.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-14-2012, 08:16 PM
Maclawnco's Avatar
Maclawnco Maclawnco is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: OH
Posts: 332
thanks all
__________________
Signature
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-14-2012, 09:21 PM
My bowtie's Avatar
My bowtie My bowtie is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Up State NY
Posts: 264
Some shops around here are cutting the cross member out, changin the pan, then fishplating the cross member back in...Buddy of mine had 2 of 'em done 3 yrs ago...still running the trucks with no issues. Heck of a lot cheaper also.....
__________________
2014 Ram 3500 srw
8.5 Hiniker VF
2012 JD 3320
Bunch of lawn care equipment
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-14-2012, 10:48 PM
Midwest BuildIt Inc's Avatar
Midwest BuildIt Inc Midwest BuildIt Inc is offline
PlowSite.com Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: rockstar award......willowbrook il
Posts: 1,280
Dont know what your 7.3 is in, but we used to take out the front body bolts, loosen the rears and lift the engine up till it hits the body. Check, but there was never a problem with anything in between body an engine. then just keep lifting engine/body until there's enough room to get pan out and in. I worked with a mobile truck mechanic and we did 4 7.3s this way. never a problem. we were usually in and out in 3-4 hours. just keep your eye on everything and make sure you dont stretch anything to far, disconnect it if you need to.
__________________
DRINK COFFEE: Do Stupid things Faster and with more Energy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dissociative View Post
heard from ERIC one....he electrical taped a boot knife to the end of a .177 rifle, and is currently wedged in sniper style the back yard of said target cat taking his aim..he plans to bring it down with multiple shots to the head, and run up on it and stab it with his home made bayonet.....i advised him to proceed.

AKA....BNC SERVICES

Go's to my cell, feel free to contact anytime
bryan@midwestbuilditinc.com
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-15-2012, 12:21 AM
01PStroke's Avatar
01PStroke 01PStroke is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Orland Hills, IL
Posts: 488
Quote:
Originally Posted by Midwest BuildIt Inc View Post
Dont know what your 7.3 is in, but we used to take out the front body bolts, loosen the rears and lift the engine up till it hits the body. Check, but there was never a problem with anything in between body an engine. then just keep lifting engine/body until there's enough room to get pan out and in. I worked with a mobile truck mechanic and we did 4 7.3s this way. never a problem. we were usually in and out in 3-4 hours. just keep your eye on everything and make sure you dont stretch anything to far, disconnect it if you need to.
That's how the shop my brother works at tackles it!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-15-2012, 05:58 AM
damian damian is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: avon mass
Posts: 307
google 7.3 rusted pan repair youtube
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-15-2012, 09:24 AM
grec-o-face's Avatar
grec-o-face grec-o-face is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Shore, MA
Posts: 485
Quote:
Originally Posted by damian View Post
google 7.3 rusted pan repair youtube
Here ya go Damian;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slnFCb46IO8

http://youtu.be/vmZooU7Q6ck
__________________
Truck & plow
Original creator of the greco-mod
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-15-2012, 10:32 AM
coldcoffee's Avatar
coldcoffee coldcoffee is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: South-East Cleveland
Posts: 776
I've heard some good things about the fiberglass repair kit, surface prep of course will play huge in its effectiveness.

If you want to just buy yourself some time, I have another method that has worked very well for myself in the past:

1. Drain oil overnight & degrease pan.

2. wire wheel, sand & scrape all loose material till your seeing bare metal.

3. clean surface again w/ brake cleaner or similar.

4. Make sure surface and air are not too cold (see product info)

5. Assuming at this point there are no holes larger than a pencil, apply the following product generously over all areas to be repaired:

Napa's Permatex "Ultra Black" (item # 765-2425)...sold in small tubes & caulk size ($20-25 for caulk size)

6. Shmear the product around well to get good coverage, after your satisfied w/ the coverage, apply a sheet of tin foil (reynolds wrap or other) to fit the area.

7. Using your fingers closed together and the palm of your hand, gently massage the foil surface to flatten out the product more evenly and get a good bond between those surfaces...rub out any air pockets & work the heavy spots to the thinner areas.

8. Waite at least 24 hours or until cured (the longer the better).

9. Say a few prayers and go ahead w/ refilling your oil. Let the truck sit and idle for maybe 30-60 minutes before driving...check for leak's.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-15-2012, 11:14 AM
dfd9 dfd9 is offline
PlowSite.com Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: The Kingdom of Nye
Posts: 1,487
In the past I've been a big proponent of cutting the crossmember method. I have had a couple work great and a couple that have had to be redone. It is cheaper, when it works. When it doesn't, the company that did it covered the cost, but still, being without the truck for another 2-3 days makes it not so cheap.

So, I now recommend just pulling the engine and doing it the "right" way.

If it isn't a bad leak, the fiberglass repair or fuel tank patch kit method works great, every time.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1olddogtwo View Post
I so hate myself for reading all this.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 11-15-2012, 07:10 PM
2COR517's Avatar
2COR517 2COR517 is offline
2000 Club Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: rock - Me - hardplace
Posts: 7,130
I gotta get me one of those.

Must be an even more fun project in an E Series
__________________
The Dog Napper

Truck has engine, transmission, transfer case. Tires on rims bolted to axles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfd9
As for your question, the only thing you missed is him answering the question you posed and him completely ignoring the fact that he didn't answer it. .

When you hear hoofbeats look for horses, not zebras.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 11-15-2012, 10:04 PM
07PSDCREW's Avatar
07PSDCREW 07PSDCREW is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Berlin, Ma
Posts: 726
7.3 oil pan in my shop...Pull the engine. 4-5 hrs...job done





6.4 Bed plate gasket and water pump cover




Last edited by 07PSDCREW; 11-15-2012 at 10:50 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 11-16-2012, 05:00 AM
FordFisherman's Avatar
FordFisherman FordFisherman is offline
PlowSite.com Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: right next door to hell
Posts: 1,347
When you factor in the cost of the repair over the life of the motor with a 7.3 its a minimal expense considering they usually go 400K with basic maintenance.
__________________
04 F350XL 9' Utility
8' Fisher MM2
96 F350XLT 7.3 PSD
8' Fisher MM1
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 11-16-2012, 10:29 AM
dfd9 dfd9 is offline
PlowSite.com Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: The Kingdom of Nye
Posts: 1,487
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2COR517 View Post
I gotta get me one of those.

Must be an even more fun project in an E Series
Get a 6.0 in addition to the 7.3. They are even more wicked good.

Another $800 for turbo downpipes so I don't die of CO poisoning or end up with some form of cancer in a year or two because my cab fills with exhaust when cold.

But just remember, spend $3-4K and this engine is bulletproof. Oh, and the oil pans do rust out on the 6.0s as well. Not as bad, but they do.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1olddogtwo View Post
I so hate myself for reading all this.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 11-16-2012, 11:05 AM
got-h2o's Avatar
got-h2o got-h2o is offline
2000 Club Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 2,403
Quote:
Originally Posted by My bowtie View Post
Some shops around here are cutting the cross member out, changin the pan, then fishplating the cross member back in...Buddy of mine had 2 of 'em done 3 yrs ago...still running the trucks with no issues. Heck of a lot cheaper also.....
I had a truck that had previously been done like that by the dealer. Once trucks started getting out of warranty, it was a cost effective option. I'd do it if I had to do one. Especially with a plow mount, there's nothing to worry about. They honestly did a horse sh!t job on the one I had, and it was still fine. I then sold it to a guy that brought his brother, a Ford diesel tech with him when he bought it. He saw it and didn't bat an eye.
__________________
Diesel trucks with plows that are too heavy for them, and spreaders loaded too heavy for them too



Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 11-16-2012, 03:25 PM
2COR517's Avatar
2COR517 2COR517 is offline
2000 Club Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: rock - Me - hardplace
Posts: 7,130
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfd9 View Post
Get a 6.0 in addition to the 7.3. They are even more wicked good.

Another $800 for turbo downpipes so I don't die of CO poisoning or end up with some form of cancer in a year or two because my cab fills with exhaust when cold.

But just remember, spend $3-4K and this engine is bulletproof. Oh, and the oil pans do rust out on the 6.0s as well. Not as bad, but they do.
My 6.0 runs great. Quiet, always starts. Did have to do exhaust manifolds though...
__________________
The Dog Napper

Truck has engine, transmission, transfer case. Tires on rims bolted to axles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfd9
As for your question, the only thing you missed is him answering the question you posed and him completely ignoring the fact that he didn't answer it. .

When you hear hoofbeats look for horses, not zebras.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 11-16-2012, 09:56 PM
got-h2o's Avatar
got-h2o got-h2o is offline
2000 Club Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 2,403
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2COR517 View Post
My 6.0 runs great. Quiet, always starts. Did have to do exhaust manifolds though...
Ya, mine do too...........how did 6.0's come up in a 7.3 thread?! Put an hpop in a 7.3 and you're right in the same ballpark $ making them relaible.

Give me a break.
__________________
Diesel trucks with plows that are too heavy for them, and spreaders loaded too heavy for them too



Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 11-17-2012, 09:21 PM
FISHERBOY's Avatar
FISHERBOY FISHERBOY is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: G-town, PA
Posts: 419
IN my dump i've had to replace 2 oil pans, and my pickup has had 1 replaced so far.
__________________
01 F-350 dump 4x4 444 c.i. Powerstroke Diesel Fisher XLS plow, central hydrualics, Henderson SS tailgate spreader
00 F-250 4X4 444 C.I. Powerstroke Diesel 8ft Fisher HD Series

86 gmc 3500 dump 9' fisherplow,
fisher SS pro caster spreader- for sale
JD 310sg 4X4 backhoe-for sale
SP12' Pro-tech Snow Pusher-for sale
S175 Bobcat Skid Loader

Don't lift till it sounds expensive
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2000 - 2012 PlowSite.comô Moose River Media
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:01 AM.

Page generated in 0.03529 seconds with 9 queries