Live in n. Minnesota.
2000 foot gravel drive with 30 foot drop and rise over single lane bridge.
Bought 90 f350 tdi with boss v because I wanted v for staying on road in heavy snow down hill over bridge.
Truck had $1200 in glowplugs etc. But is really rough.
Problem: rarely starts without ether. In cold ether may not work. Does have block heater.
Questions.
1. Fix fuel supply issue?first mechanic just said she was tired.
2. There is another tdi on Cl but am I likely to have same issue?
3. Get a gas truck, what other years will have the same frame
Appreciate any advice. Keep in mind that this truck will get used maybe 15 times a year to plow or tow.
If it's needing either, chances are the gp's are burnt out. Unfortunately many glow plugs will 'fit' in these trucks, but most burn out again in a very short period of time.
Ether ruins glow plugs. Chances are they were starting to go bad, and using ether wiped them out. I dont see how you could spend 1200 bucks in glows. You can get 8 bosch duraterms for 90 bucks. How fast does the truck crank over when trying to fire? Batteries in good shape? Are the plugs even getting power?
These older ford diesels are similar in what they need/how they work to the 6.5 diesel.
__________________
1994 Silverado 6.5 Diesel R/C L/B 2500 Not your average 6.5
1994 Fisher Minute Mount Plow 7 1/2 Foot. (Full Hydraulic)
Truck left the dealer lot with the plow in '94, true lifer plow truck.
Holset WH1C, Chipped and Built. 250,000 Miles.
Rebuilt Engine @ 204,000 Miles
Rebuilt 4L80E @ 241,000 Miles
Start with a GP controller and GP's. Both are cheap enough and worth doing anyway. That is probably the simplest and easiest motor to do gp's on anyway. Just do them.
Check your gp harness too while you're in there. They tend to go bad with age, and International actually sells a replacement harness. BUT I'd still start with above
__________________
Diesel trucks with plows that are too heavy for them, and spreaders loaded too heavy for them too
Allis 645B with Protech HD 14'
64 Chevelle Tube Chassis drag car and some other toys
When I got the truck the following had been replaced:
Gp,gp harness, gp controller,battiers,block heater,solenoid, fuel pump and filter.
That was the 1200 dollars
My guess is injector problems which probably makes it too spendy for condition of truck.
Would it have value to part out ? It has only been run a dozen times since repairs.
Thanks for replies thus far.
Looking at a 01 f350 v10 on Cl now. Thoughts on that vehicle? 8900 with v-plow
Id first start at the plugs, you can pull them out and ground them to see if they get hot.(This will test the controller harness and plug) See if your even getting power to the plugs next. (This will test the harness & controller) Then go back further. Is the controller actually working? Ect. If your glowing ok there is prolly fuel drainback/leak when it sits. Injectors shouldn't be an issue for just trying to start unless they are all somehow totally plugged up/shot. All you need is fuel, compression, air and heat for the first cold start.
You say its just for your driveway, is it worth it to you to spend 8900 on a truck used for your driveway when you could possibly get this one going for way cheaper? Unless your looking for something more D/D capable.
__________________
1994 Silverado 6.5 Diesel R/C L/B 2500 Not your average 6.5
1994 Fisher Minute Mount Plow 7 1/2 Foot. (Full Hydraulic)
Truck left the dealer lot with the plow in '94, true lifer plow truck.
Holset WH1C, Chipped and Built. 250,000 Miles.
Rebuilt Engine @ 204,000 Miles
Rebuilt 4L80E @ 241,000 Miles
If it is fuel line air leak, which makes sense, what options do I have?
Thanks
Most of the lines would be hard steel if they are stock. However if the truck is really crusty someone has either replaced them or cheaped out and hose clamped rubber fuel line in place. Just trace the lines starting at one end. Make sure they dont have any cracks, loose clamps n' such. Another way to do this is to use a small amount of compressed air on a section of hose, see if you spot any leaks.
Seeing as how this is a cheap truck for you, (how much did you pay for this rig?) you might as well replace the lines with rubber if they are bad, as solid lines will be more expensive.
__________________
1994 Silverado 6.5 Diesel R/C L/B 2500 Not your average 6.5
1994 Fisher Minute Mount Plow 7 1/2 Foot. (Full Hydraulic)
Truck left the dealer lot with the plow in '94, true lifer plow truck.
Holset WH1C, Chipped and Built. 250,000 Miles.
Rebuilt Engine @ 204,000 Miles
Rebuilt 4L80E @ 241,000 Miles
Take you 5 seconds to do an amp test to see how many glow plugs and if glow controll is working and it costs a big 0. Good place to start. Ive seen people that dont better know use autolight glow plugs and go bad within weeks.
Id first start at the plugs, you can pull them out and ground them to see if they get hot.(This will test the controller harness and plug) See if your even getting power to the plugs next. (This will test the harness & controller) Then go back further. Is the controller actually working? Ect. If your glowing ok there is prolly fuel drainback/leak when it sits. Injectors shouldn't be an issue for just trying to start unless they are all somehow totally plugged up/shot. All you need is fuel, compression, air and heat for the first cold start.
You say its just for your driveway, is it worth it to you to spend 8900 on a truck used for your driveway when you could possibly get this one going for way cheaper? Unless your looking for something more D/D capable.
Waste a crap ton of time taking them ou,t when a tap of a test light will tell you the same thing in about a second or 2,. End of test light to battery power unglug gp and touch it if it lights gp is good. The usually draw about 18 to 20 amps ea so checking amp draw at the controller should show around 160 amps if its say 100 u have 3 not working 0 amps possibly bad controller or wiring issue. And on these older trucks all it takes is one gp to to cause a problem.
I have 4 of these trucks, I know what does and doesn't work with them.
At 2K for that truck, as long as you don't mind doing some wrenching, it'll make a good plow truck for you. If necessary you can replace all the gp's, injectors, and pump for less than 1K if you do it yourself, which is where these trucks suffer over time for starting and power/performance. Go check out that forum that I linked you to originally.
I have two of these with plows on, I love plowing with them even though I've plowed with all kinds of trucks. The power band is at such a low RPM that they'll push right through anything you can get enough traction for. Your driveway, with a V plow and chains you'll laugh at it.
On the other hand, if you were a lot closer, I'd tell you to go spend more $$$$ and I'd make you an offer on that one.
Just checked my receipts. I did bring it into a shop last winter (probably not experts on diesels) and they thought it needed new injector pump and injector nossels(sp?). Thoughts on the likelihood of this being the culprit?
If you read above most other things of concern were replaced already. I may have wrecked the glow plugs with ether but they still take about 5-10 seconds to heat up for the first time and then just a couple seconds if I do it right away again.
I did find one short piece of rubber fuel hose connecting to the steel fuel line that goes above the glow plugs that is in really rough shape. When I took it off there was no fuel in it. I am heading into town to get a new piece and to get a tester light to check plugs. I don't think my meter is sensitive enough.
Once it has started it will start up again easily in the next few hours without any help. Air getting in the lines could be the culprit as well??? In reading some other stuff there are some different ways of bleeding the fuel lines??
I had to use ether to start it to get it into the workshop today even though it is 80 degrees outside. It won't be 80 degrees for much longer.
Replaced bad hose. Truck started right up. It was alread warm so this doesn't mean much yet. Drove over to the neighbors. Stopped and started the engine a few times doing errands around the property. Ran it a few miles down the road at 45 mph. Checked the 4WD. Things were going well.........
Now there is a new problem (not to mention the old): Wait To Start (WTS) light isn't coming on and I don't think the GP's are getting hot because it won't start. Is this a GP Controller thing? I am guessing it is more than a bad fuse or something.
Sorry to keep up with the negative, I am a glass half full guy.
Linear Mode
