Tired of slow hydraulics...a plan I have

[TJS]

Sick and tired of the slow plow movement. I first had a belt driven pump set up on my plow truck 85 Chevy k -10. It was slow and I was sick of power braking it when wanting to move it faster. I was told the pump was getting worn out. Got a brand new pump a little faster but not much.
Then I decided to get an electric set up and sold the other one on e-bay a while back. Still have this electric one, it is a fenner under hood model. It is kinda slow too and kills my electrical. I even put a 140 amp alternator from a Pontiac transport van (rear air) and modified the alternator bracket. I found an article online somewhere on the alternator. I have been using this for two seasons now. I have been having belt throwing and belt overheating the belt problems this year. I machined the back of the alt. pulley just like .020 to get alternator belt in exact alignment.
It has been better but now I have decided to go back to a custom belt driven system with a real positive displacement pump and fisher spool valve(rebuilt of course). I am using a Barnes pump that is rated at 4.5 gpm at 1800 rpms at like 2500 psi and 9.0 gpm at 3600 rpms. I am fabricating a custom tank the will sit under the aux battery and hold about 5 gallons. I also am fabricating the brackets as well. I feel this is the only way to go to get some speed out of these things. Here are a couple of pics of the pump I am going to use. I am also using this pump for a hydraulic tubing bender conversion. Here is the barnes pump and electric motor I am going to run.

T.J.
www.tjsperformance.com


http://www.tjsperformance.com/images/hydbender01.jpg

http://www.tjsperformance.com/images/hydbender02.jpg

http://www.tjsperformance.com/images/hydbender03.jpg

[justme-]

well,
having dwelled on the same issue for several years.... I wish you luck and will caution you with this- remember the engine is variable speed and the pump has limits to it's rpm. If you gear the pulleys to give you maximum flow (rpm) at engine idle or low speed you will run the risk of over revving the pump at normal driving (or highway) speeds. THAT is why the Fisher pump was geared so slow....

The only good solution I have ever devised is a self contained hydraulic system- 10 HP Briggs engine running it's own hydro pump feeding the plow system. Pump flow and performance would be totally independant of the truck engine. But with the experiances many of us have had keeping spreaders running after a couple years.......

keep us posted on how it works out.

[TJS]

Thanks. I already have the pulley formula figured out so I do not over rev the pump meanwhile keeping it in the 1800 rpm(pump) range safely.
I will keep you posted.]
T.J.

[Willy-D8]

You could also rig it to run other hydraulic accessories as well with that kind of power with a few additional remotes.

Like a wood splitter as an example

[starc]

I would say your smoking belts because the pump is way too large. Used to have the same problem with a dump setup with a 10 gallon pump belt driven. Had to go down to a 2 gal pump to stop smoking belts. Later I added a pto attachment to the side off the B&W T19B transmission and ran the 10 gal pump with a small driveshaft and it worked great....

[Ripple]

Good idea....let me know how it works and if it does ...can you make one for my truck?

[tvpierce]

One solution to address the concern about over-driving the pump would be to include a clutch, like on an A/C unit. (like the pic) Then you only drive the pump when you're using it. When you're done, shut it off, and go to the next job.

jp

[BigDave12768]

Why not just go buy a newer plow with the instact pump on it. Or go hunt down a 2nd gen Dodge with a 12v Cummins it. The trucks motor uses none of the power from the alternater to run. So the plow never really drains down the eltrical system.