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View Full Version : First plow of the season with the snowbear + lite mod


PhantomRacer
12-09-2005, 04:36 PM
Finally got to use the snowbear for the first time this season..after the false start last week...snow was soooooooooo heavy..having only the all-season tires on did not help the matter..but got through it just fine...Putting the snow tires on next week..that will make a huge difference..

Here are some pictures of the requested lite mode I did to my snowbear. I got the light head off ebay pretty cheap..wired them into the factory lights (through a relay) so I do not have an extra switch. Pretty nice..and I can use both the truck and the plow lights if I need to. I used a trailer connector for a quick connect for all the lights. Works very well (other than the light is not perfectly level. Have to deal with that later..but for now they work fine)

http://www.geocities.com/yellow_mgb/snowbear/DSCN1824.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/yellow_mgb/snowbear/DSCN1825.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/yellow_mgb/snowbear/DSCN1826.JPG

http://www.geocities.com/yellow_mgb/snowbear/DSCN1827.JPG


Paul

dirt digger
12-09-2005, 05:11 PM
good looking setup, but the left light looks a little goofy...did you bend the pillar holding the light?

PhantomRacer
12-09-2005, 05:45 PM
was like that when I got it..when it had round lights you barely noticed it...but like I said..it does work..but I will put a shim or something under it to make it level

Paul

don_luciano674
12-09-2005, 07:01 PM
If it ain't broke don't fix it!:p

dirt digger
12-09-2005, 11:34 PM
If it ain't broke don't fix it!:p
i hear that :drinkup:
most times you only make it worse..haha

bdhunter
01-19-2006, 06:05 AM
If you see this phantomracer (I can't PM you) (can't spell too good either)...

Can you give me a little info on exactly which relays you got for the plow lights. I have a similar situation, snowbear plow, but rigging meyers lights, and want to do it the same way - with the trailer connector.

bdhunter
01-19-2006, 06:11 AM
If you see this PhantomRacer (I can't PM you)...

Can you give me a little info on exactly which relays you got for the plow lights. I have a similar situation, snowbear plow, but rigging meyers lights, and want to do it the same way - with the trailer connector.

dunedog
01-19-2006, 09:29 AM
Phantom,
I really think you should consider "Lazy Eye" as a new handle.:nod:

Glad you finally got a go round to use the plow.

00 Ram
01-19-2006, 12:05 PM
If you see this PhantomRacer (I can't PM you)...

Can you give me a little info on exactly which relays you got for the plow lights. I have a similar situation, snowbear plow, but rigging meyers lights, and want to do it the same way - with the trailer connector.

I'd like to know more, too. just bought a SB, and would like more info about rigging up lights.

I sent him a pm a while ago with other questions, and he hasn't answered me. according to his profile, he hasn't logged in since jan 3. No other contact info listed, so unless a moderator wants to send him an e-mail...who knows? maybe he hasn't even turned on his computer.

PhantomRacer
01-19-2006, 10:49 PM
I have a relay hooked up from the parking lite, which triggers the low beams...(this will operate JUST the plow low beams)...You can then turn the low beams on for the truck..then you have the plow lites and the truck lights...then I have the high beams triggering the high beams..

The turn signals are just tapped into the turn signals without a relay

The relay is a regular 12volt automotive relay. I can make up a wiring diagram for you if you want.

Paul
Phantom 'lazyeye' Racer:drinkup:

PhantomRacer
01-19-2006, 11:11 PM
Here is the relay layout (regular relay) I have 2 relays (one for low beam, one for high beam)

Here is a link to explain how relays work
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#rtol

http://www.geocities.com/yellow_mgb/snowbear/relay_plow.jpg

bdhunter
01-20-2006, 05:42 AM
That's great info, now I have the exact idea for the lights. Low beams the majority of the time, with the Jeep's parking lights on. I can envision that rig needing a 5th wire - 1=low 2=high 3=left turn 4=right turn 5=gnd (no need to be glowin the yellows constantly)- easy enough with a round 7 wire trailer adapter. Now to locate an auto store that has the generic relays.

A note to 00 Ram - not sure how your SB switch looks, but the one they sent me is pretty big and ugly. A friend is helping me design a circuit with a 3 way (momentary - center off) toggle that will trigger another relay (DBDT) and do the raising and lowering. SB wants around 250.00 for the wireless remote setup, and is not supplying any more till next season. If you're interested I can send you details when we get that relay and get it all working.

So - soon will have working lights, and no more switch hanging on the window.

00 Ram
01-20-2006, 10:28 AM
A note to 00 Ram - not sure how your SB switch looks, but the one they sent me is pretty big and ugly. A friend is helping me design a circuit with a 3 way (momentary - center off) toggle that will trigger another relay (DBDT) and do the raising and lowering. SB wants around 250.00 for the wireless remote setup, and is not supplying any more till next season. If you're interested I can send you details when we get that relay and get it all working.

.

absolutely. I'm open to any info you have.

just what the heck is in that box, anyway? must be more than just a switch. I only took a brief look at the parts the other night when I brought it all home. (mainly just wanted to get the mount certificate and manual out of the box...the rest is at my dad's house). But I did see the big ugly switch box. wasn't obvious to me how its supposed to mount on the window....

bdhunter
01-20-2006, 11:51 AM
It's just a whompin big old 3 way heavy duty switch that reverses polarity! It's designed to hang on driver's window and you run the big old black flat wire under the back of your hood. I can do OK with it, but want a more 'user friendly' setup (and I don't like the fact that the window is open a hair at left ear level).

Got my nice 3 way SPDT mometary with center off toggle today at my favorite local auto electric business. Once all stuff is gathered, will pass along where and what to get.

On assembly - I assembled the entire plow with a few hand tools in about two hours. Just follow one page at a time. I have no mount, mine plugs into a 2" front rcvr hitch. Maybe you can can shave some time if you have a good 3/8 air ratchet as all the nuts are locking type.

PhantomRacer
01-20-2006, 01:43 PM
The plow is grounded already..so you do not need a ground wire... THe light is grounded at the mounting bolt (no ground wire from the light actually)

Or you can just get a flat-5 connector instead of the flat-4 if you want a ground

Most new trailers are coming with a flat5 now as they now have a reverse electric lockout for the brakes (like our trailer)

bdhunter
01-21-2006, 05:58 AM
Thanks for that grounding info. After too many bad experiences trying to trust trailers grounded via the hitch, I've found it's better to run the ground right to the place it's needed.

Will look around for that flat 5 connector, but a round 6 will do it too. Already got a couple of 40amp Cole Hersee relays, so by the time my SB mounts get here, the wiring should be good to go. Will post some pics when completed.

Now to get busy with that plow switch project.

00 Ram
01-24-2006, 05:48 PM
I'm not sure I understand exactly what it is that this relay does.

does it couple the plow lights to the vehicle's headlights? or does it redirect power to the plow lights when they're plugged in, while de-activating the vehicle's lights? and if thats the case, do you need a seperate one for each circuit...high beam, low beam, directionals?

PhantomRacer
01-24-2006, 06:14 PM
It is a remote switch. Instead of high amperage current from the battery...through the switch..then to the lights (or accessory) you can use a low amp wiring and switches to activate another switch (the relay) to activate it.

from the website I listed above http://www.the12volt.com
Why do I want to use a relay and do I really need to? Anytime you want to switch a device which draws more current than is provided by an output of a switch or component you'll need to use a relay. The coil of an SPDT relay that we most commonly use draws very little current (less than 200 milliamps) and the amount of current that you can pass through a relay's common, normally closed, and normally open contacts will handle up to 30 or 40 amps. This allows you to switch devices such as headlights, parking lights, horns, etc., with low amperage outputs such as those found on keyless entry and alarm systems, and other components. In some cases you may need to switch multiple things at the same time using one output. A single output connected to multiple relays will allow you to open continuity and/or close continuity simultaneously on multiple wires.

There are far too many applications to list that require the use of a relay, but we do show many of the most popular applications in the pages that follow. If you are still unclear about what a relay does or if you should use one after you browse through the rest of this section, please post a question at the12volt's install bay. (We recommend Bosch or Potter & Brumfield relays for all of the SPDT relay applications shown on this site.)



Paul

00 Ram
01-24-2006, 06:43 PM
I saw that on the site. I get that part: switch activates relay>>relay activates device. but how does this tie the vehicle light circuits to the auxilliary plow lights?

PhantomRacer
01-24-2006, 08:59 PM
OK it is super simple... Look at the picture previously posted in this thread while you read below:

On the relay..connect as follows

One wire (good size; fused please) from relay directly to the battery Or heavy 12 volt wire (I, naturally, chose the battery)

One wire to a good ground

One wire to the new Plow Light (Low beam, for example) Mine went to the wire harness (trailer connector)

One wire (fused) tapped to a wire to activate the relay. I chose a parking light (on the truck) to activate the low beam. I removed the light assembly. found the wire that was hot when the parking lite. Not surprisingly...it was the bulb that was lit!! :) :)

So now when the parking lite is on (on the truck)... that activates the relay...sending power from the battery to the plow lights..the heavy current never gets into the parking lite circuit (kinda the point of the relay)

Make any sense? Heavy current going from the battery directly to the plow light...never passing into any switch on the dash or any thin wiring or long path. The parking light (in my example) is just a trigger....it doesn't power anything...:drinkup:

Oh yea...forgot..I actually connected the lowbeam and parking lights to be on all the time on the plow light (I already had the 4 wire connector and didnt want to go out and get a 5 wire)

Paul

bdhunter
01-25-2006, 06:35 AM
Here's some info that I found for the 12v relay...

Cole Hersee Co, PN RC-400110-RN (5.00 ea at my favorite auto electric business) That relay has a switched on and switched off, so only use 87.

One needed for Phantom's setup using the parking lights as the 'switch'

That should be enough to satisfy PA law for me, for now. Will only require 4 wires.

Ground, headlights, left turn, right turn. Simplest install.

To include highbeams, need one more relay and one more wire (4 could work if you have a good ground via the plow mount)

My electrical guy 'rung out' the relay and came up with...
85 = ground
87 = (closed when switched) to 12v+ (battery - fuse it!!!)
87a = not used for this application
30 = (common) to plow headlights
86 = (switch leg) from parking light
When 86 is energized (switched on), relay closes sending 12v load from 87 to 30

L & R turns need no relay, just go direct from vehicle L & R to L & R turn of plow lights. If problems with the newer vehicle electrical because of the direct connection, get one of those cheapee generic electronic trailer wire setups at Wal-Mart and use the L & R turns thru that.

PhantomRacer
01-25-2006, 09:09 AM
wow looks like I got it right :) Cool..lol

I just also fused the line from the parking light to the relay 'just in case'

Just to make my setup a hair clearer (repeating myself)...

when my parking lite switch is on in the truck...the parking lites on the truck are on..and the parking lights+low beams are illuminated on the plow (I combined low beam and parking lite wires on the plow)

Low beam switch will turn on the truck low beams in addition to the plow low beams

I do have 2 relays, one for low and one for high beam.

Paul

00 Ram
01-25-2006, 11:21 AM
Ok, I think I get it, now. Except: what happens when you switch on the high-beams? do both the truck and plow high-beams come on, or just the plow?

the thing I wouldn't like if the vehicle lights are on is the glare that comes off the back of the plow, and shines back in your face...

I guess I was confusing your setup with what I've read about the fancy new "mainstream" plows. The wiring is set up so that when the plow lights are connected, the vehicle headlights don't come on at all. Power is redirected to the plow lights instead. I don't know if you'd call the device that performs this task a "relay", or what. But apparently, there's some switch that is activated when it senses a completed circuit in the plow lights. (?). My old Fisher speedcast setup worked that way, except the switch was manual, located inside the cab. it was a DPDT toggle switch...one posistion for vehicle lights, the other for plow. parking/directionals were tied together, so they came on all the time.

IIRC, this was all just built in to the wiring harness. didn't have to cut or splice anything. The power supply to each headlight fixture had a plug; all I had to do was unplug the truck's headlights, and plug those plugs into the wiring harness, which had its own plugs that went in to the headlights, as well as a set of wires that went to the plow light plug. just a big "a/b" switch. I wonder if one could rig up a "diy" version of that. the hard part would be finding the plugs.

one other question, just out of curiosity: you had the original lights that came with the Snowbear light kit, yes? how does snowbear intend for those to be set up? are you supposed to run a seperate switch to the cab of the truck, or do they tie into the headlight circuit?

bdhunter
01-25-2006, 12:14 PM
Snowbear refers to their light setup as "off road" lights (not sure they would be sreet legal in PA). They look a lot like lights for your garden tractor.

Factory drawing shows the + wire going from the battery to a plug in barrel terminal on the wire, so you just plug in when you want lights. They say ground will go thru plow mount, or if not, run a ground wire. (They sent me the PDF for the lights when I inquired about getting the light mounts from them)

Our setup is using actual plow lights (headlights and parking/turn), and instead of any sophistcated circuitry (like Meyers want $65.00 for their generic one) we can get it done for a $5.00 relay, some wire, a 4 wire flat trailer plug (male and female) and a fuse holder and some time to mess around. When ready to plow, just plug'nplay! Turn parking lights on and Viola! Plow lights!

In a few more days I will be able to post pictures of my setup - now waiting for the mounts to arrive - have everything else. No S... predicted till at least next Mon/Tue - so I'm relaxed about it.

00 Ram
01-25-2006, 01:03 PM
So you can buy just the mounts? how much? I figured I'd have to buy the whole kit, and toss the actual light fixtures. or wire them into my trailer hitch backup light circuit, so I can see better when backing up at night. :cool: ...which I was going to do anyway, probably with some cheap fog-lights from auto-zone. But If I had a set of otherwise unused light fixtures...what the heck? probably would be kind of funny looking, though.

bdhunter
01-25-2006, 07:02 PM
00ram - the guy I use is on ebay as seejay sales. Just do an ebay search of snowbear. He's in Wisconsin.

He was able to order me just the mounts for 77.50 (less than half of what a fabricator wanted). Snowbear would only sell the whole set for around 139.00.

Since the Meters lights were given to me, figured I could cough up the 77.50 and have them look purdy like phamtomracer's.

Thinking of maybe putting strobes in the yellow portion! Yee haw - what I can't push, I'll burn my way thru!

00 Ram
01-30-2006, 12:34 PM
how'd you make out w/ the switch project?

I found an easy path to get the heavy cable through the firewall and into the cab, so I won't have to hassle with opening the hood and fussing around in there every time I want to use the plow...but I still have the big ugly box switch. It would be nice to find some kind of plugs I could use to disconnect the switch and store it when its not being used; no convenient way to tuck it up under the dash. (the trailer plugs that you guys are using for your lights wouldn't be heavy enough). The plug end of the cable wouldn't go through the hole in the firewall, but the cable/wires could. I dis-assembled the switch box, took the wires off the switch terminals, and was able to feed them through the small hole. now that its re-assembled, I'm stuck with it that way. :rolleyes:

I did find, though, that when seated in the driver's seat, the box sits upside-down on my left thigh and is pretty stable there....kind of leaning on the door. there's still enough slack in the cable to hang it from the window, too. Paul: I saw on your web page that you have a home-made mount for yours...what is that? I can't quite make it out?

the switch "could" be removed from the box, and mounted in the dash, I suppose...but I hate the idea of drilling holes in my dash. and with the way they're shaped these days, there really isn't a convenient location. plus, its all plastic, so who knows if it would be strong enough to support it.

a smaller, hand-held switch would be the best solution. But I don't know where to look. posted a question on mail-order sources over on the "truck repair" board.

PhantomRacer
01-30-2006, 02:08 PM
Ok, I think I get it, now. Except: what happens when you switch on the high-beams? do both the truck and plow high-beams come on, or just the plow?

the thing I wouldn't like if the vehicle lights are on is the glare that comes off the back of the plow, and shines back in your face...

I guess I was confusing your setup with what I've read about the fancy new "mainstream" plows. The wiring is set up so that when the plow lights are connected, the vehicle headlights don't come on at all. Power is redirected to the plow lights instead. I don't know if you'd call the device that performs this task a "relay", or what. But apparently, there's some switch that is activated when it senses a completed circuit in the plow lights. (?). My old Fisher speedcast setup worked that way, except the switch was manual, located inside the cab. it was a DPDT toggle switch...one posistion for vehicle lights, the other for plow. parking/directionals were tied together, so they came on all the time.

IIRC, this was all just built in to the wiring harness. didn't have to cut or splice anything. The power supply to each headlight fixture had a plug; all I had to do was unplug the truck's headlights, and plug those plugs into the wiring harness, which had its own plugs that went in to the headlights, as well as a set of wires that went to the plow light plug. just a big "a/b" switch. I wonder if one could rig up a "diy" version of that. the hard part would be finding the plugs.

one other question, just out of curiosity: you had the original lights that came with the Snowbear light kit, yes? how does snowbear intend for those to be set up? are you supposed to run a seperate switch to the cab of the truck, or do they tie into the headlight circuit?

On my setup..high beams on..both truck and plow high beams are on. Rarely used them..never used them yet actually.

The wiring diagram that came with the plow lights (and switch, etc) disable the plow lights...no biggie..what I did was quicker and easier (and cleaner looking)IMO.

The lights that come with the snowbear lights are a utility light..not a headlight..and light up the road like crap..does a resonable job for your driveway, etc...but horrible on the road..trust me.

The wiring with the snowbear is on all the time (if you want switch, wire it to a switched source...originally I just wired it to the parking light to control it....but got tired of the 'offroad light' and went to the real lights (and added second relay.

The strap of metal on the back of the plow controller on my setup is just a piece of aluminum siding (kid you not). I just cut the metal into a strip ..took the back off the plow controller..screwed the strap onto the back of the controller..now I have an aluminum siding strap that slides inbetween the weatherstrip and glass. works quite well actually.

Paul

Paul

bdhunter
01-31-2006, 06:17 AM
Sorry to get a little off topic from the lights, but just wanted y'all to know that the toggle/relays replacement of the big ugly Snowbear switch is coming along. All parts now gathered (including the red and gray big connectors (from Grainger). Pleased to tell y'all that the total investment so far is around 39.00 (25.00 for the switch and 4 relays - Grainger connectors 7.00 ea).

The toggle is ready to go into the Cherokee, and tomorrow the relays will be wired and mounted on a piece of aluminum bar stock. I will be snapping some e-pics as it progresses. Since no one seems to have huge spade connectors for the 70 amp relays, I'll be soldering the big wires right onto the relays.

If all goes as planned, after tomorrow - no more switch hanging on the window - no more big flat wire squished under the back of the hood! Using the big red and gray connectors, for final connection of the new circuit, in case of any circuit failure, will be able to unplug new circuit and plug big ugly switch back in.

bdhunter
01-31-2006, 06:31 AM
how'd you make out w/ the switch project?

It would be nice to find some kind of plugs I could use to disconnect the switch and store it when its not being used; no convenient way to tuck it up under the dash. (the trailer plugs that you guys are using for your lights wouldn't be heavy enough). The plug end of the cable wouldn't go through the hole in the firewall, but the cable/wires could. I dis-assembled the switch box, took the wires off the switch terminals, and was able to feed them through the small hole. now that its re-assembled, I'm stuck with it that way. :rolleyes:

I did find, though, that when seated in the driver's seat, the box sits upside-down on my left thigh and is pretty stable there....kind of leaning on the door. there's still enough slack in the cable to hang it from the window, too. Paul: I saw on your web page that you have a home-made mount for yours...what is that? I can't quite make it out?

the switch "could" be removed from the box, and mounted in the dash, I suppose...but I hate the idea of drilling holes in my dash. and with the way they're shaped these days, there really isn't a convenient location. plus, its all plastic, so who knows if it would be strong enough to support it.

a smaller, hand-held switch would be the best solution. But I don't know where to look. posted a question on mail-order sources over on the "truck repair" board.

The setup I'm building will use 3 small wires to send the up/down from the toggle to the 4 70 amp relays. I've opted for a long handled 3 way toggle, but even a small 3 way mounted in a small box would do. Since it's not carrying a heavy load, I plan to use 4 wire trailer (with one wire stripped off that) wire to get from the toggle to under the hood where the relays will be (since now they will only trigger the relays).

Also, when I post the pictures, you will see the big red and gray connectors that are available from Grainger (my Flexblade came equipped with them).

I chose them so the entire circuit could be "plug-n-play". That could be a quick fix for you 00ram (till you build the lift circuit too).

If you need any details of this or the light stuff, feel free to email me at bdhunter@cavtel.net .

PhantomRacer
01-31-2006, 09:22 AM
When these mods are done..can you post pictures...and more importanly...make up a rough wire diagram ...and a parts list (and sources).

I would like something a bit more elegant than the big box..but my cheap-ass mod with the aluminum strap actually does work well..

Paul

00 Ram
01-31-2006, 10:14 AM
cool! can't wait for the update!:cool:

I did some poking around yesterday, and found those connectors, so at the very least, I'll be able to unplug the big ugly box and put it away when not using it. I've never seen those connectors before, and I didn't look that close at them, I guess...so I just assumed that they were machine-made with the cable. guess not!

now, an alternate switch...that is another story. There isn't much out there, (that I could find) for a momentary polarity reversing switch that will handle that kind of load. I found the switch that we already have...don't need that. already got one. :rolleyes: :D not much else. seems that other winch manufacturers use a setup similar to what you're constructing, with relays, and a small actuating switch for "remote" operation.

I also found that you can buy the wireless remote controls for considerably less than the $250 you quoted from snowbear. Other people sell the "Superwinch" and its accessories. Looks like you could also use another manufactuer's model, as well. still pricey, though, at around 150 bucks.

355ss
01-31-2006, 11:08 AM
This is what I use to control my snowbear http://www.warn.com/atv/accessories/ATV-WinchUpgradeKit.shtml
I mounted the rocker switch on the column shift handle with the supplied handle bar mount.

bdhunter
01-31-2006, 06:24 PM
Nice 355ss - but - how much? I'm seeing between 120 and 150 +sh on the web. The contactor sure would be a bit smaller to install than 4 relays, but they'll fit alright under the hood (or perhaps in the future inside the cowling) of the Cherokee.

Sure would be faster than what I've done so far (but probably not nearly as much fun, from the day the idea started).

355ss
01-31-2006, 08:22 PM
Ebay special $35 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVERSAL-12V-ATV-WINCH-UPGRADE-KIT-WIRELESS-REMOTE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43984QQitemZ4608865954QQrdZ1

bdhunter
02-01-2006, 05:52 AM
Good deal there - any idea what the amperage rating is on the contactor (or at least on the one you are using)?

My "actuator" can pull 30 amps at startup according to the spec sheet from danahermotion.com - breaker at battery rated at 50 amps.

Not sure if the other Snowbear winches draw less or more.

What you have here could well be an inexpensive solution without the fabricating like I'm doing. Keep the thread alive.

bdhunter
02-01-2006, 04:38 PM
The prototype "big ugly Snowbear switch elimination circuit" all came together today. Soldered the big wires to the relays. Works flawlessly. Had to do a little dash modifiication to fit the toggle snuggley, and that's not quite done yet. Ain't high on the pretty list yet, but effective and right at my left hand finger tips.

Sorry the circuit sketch is a bit hard to see, but it's pretty straight forward. On the relays, small yellow wires are the up circuit, small green wires are the down. From the big red connector are the feeds from the battery, and the red and black big wires under the relays go to the big gray connector, to the actuator. The small brown wire on the rightmost relay + wire feeds the toggle.


Here's a few shots...

http://www.hunterfamilypics.net/images/other%20stuff/jeepstuff/Lift%20circuit.JPG
http://www.hunterfamilypics.net/images/other%20stuff/jeepstuff/Lift%20relays.JPG
http://www.hunterfamilypics.net/images/other%20stuff/jeepstuff/Lift%20toggle.JPG

bdhunter
02-01-2006, 04:48 PM
Sorry phantomracer - just had to outdo your first pictures. The Snowbear light mounts came yesterday, and here they are bolted on. The lights need a few modifications, and then the wiring circuit. I will have to use a switch for the headlight relays, as my parking lights stay on when headlights are turned on. No biggie though, just happen to have a fog light switch setup in the Jeep now, since adding the toggle for the lift.

Will send another pic once the install is 100%.

http://www.hunterfamilypics.net/images/other%20stuff/jeepstuff/Meyer's%20lights%2001.JPG

00 Ram
02-01-2006, 05:16 PM
cool! :cool:

so, how come the headlights are all "askew" like that? can't really see enough detail in the pic...are the mounting tabs that come off the supports not horizontal? (parallel to the ground)?

I think I'm going with the 35 dollar wireless remote. dayum, thats cheap. :eek: see any reason why that thing shouldn't work?

bdhunter
02-01-2006, 05:43 PM
That was just a joke pic... They were barely bolted on the mounts. When they are competed, will post another pic.

My only concern about the Gorilla remote is - is the contactor rated for at least 30 amps? I questioned the guy on ebay, haven't heard back yet. But even with 15.00 s/h, it's a better deal that Snowbear themselves.

00 Ram
02-01-2006, 06:39 PM
whew! scared me there, for a minute. :dizzy: thought I was gonna have to re-think my lights again. doh!

well, perhaps I should wait to hear the answer on the amp rating, but from the wording in the add, one should be able to assume that its adequate. But we know what happens when we "ass_u_me":rolleyes: :D

UNIVERSAL remote. ...works with ALL 12v atv winches....

they all have a pretty big amp draw. and the winches that come w/ the snowbears are of the lighter sort.

dunedog
02-01-2006, 09:42 PM
X2 is rated at 3000 lbs

00 Ram
02-02-2006, 09:51 AM
I took a quick look at my winch on my way out thismorning, and it says that its rated for 2000lbs. It doesn't say "X2" on it anywhere...although, I think the manual that came with it may have said that....(now I gotta go check that). It was a "generic" sort of manual, though, covering multiple models. other than that, it just had model and serial numbers on the housing. (1102D was the model, I think). nothing about electrical requirements/capacities. I do remember on the box that it came in, it said something about "made custom for snowbear", or something like that.

bdhunter
02-12-2006, 08:09 PM
Final post on Meyer's lights on Snowbear plow.

Rigged them up with 4 flat Trailer connector, relay for the headlights (no high beams yet). Parking lights turn the relay on for now, turn signals are always available even if parking lights are not on. Later, an internal dash switch will turn them on.

Guess it must look at least semi-professional, cause the big dogs were giving me waves and thumbs up today during our 14" 'blizzard of '06'.

Bottom line - Snowbear Flexblade is a worthy investment, and the small expense to rig the free Meyer's lights - plus the fun of "inventing" the relay system for up and down and eliminating the big ugly switch has been quite a trip.

Thanks to this forum and PhantomRacer for starting the thought process, it all came together before the blizzard hit. And now, after plowing for 13 hours but finishing all the jobs - a much earned rest is in store.

00 Ram
02-13-2006, 12:14 PM
Mine are on order...should get the lights and support arms either today or tomorrow. oh, well...I'll have 'em all setup for the next one.

I decided to give that cheap remote control a try, too, but when I went back to the site, they were all gone. the vendor told me they'd be getting more in stock by the end of the month. he who hesitates....

I used the big ugly switch, now run through the firewall, just sitting upside-down on my left knee. worked out fine.

I took some pics that I'll post on the other thread...

bdhunter
02-13-2006, 07:52 PM
[QUOTE=bdhunter]Final post on Meyer's lights on Snowbear plow.

Rigged them up with 4 flat Trailer connector, relay for the headlights (no high beams yet). Parking lights turn the relay on for now, turn signals are always available even if parking lights are not on. Later, an internal dash switch will turn them on.

Guess it must look at least semi-professional, cause the big dogs were giving me waves and thumbs up today during our 14" 'blizzard of '06'.

Bottom line - Snowbear Flexblade is a worthy investment, and the small expense to rig the free Meyer's lights - plus the fun of "inventing" the relay system for up and down and eliminating the big ugly switch has been quite a trip.

Just had to add one more with a pic of todays' 'morning after' in a Phila PA parking lot. Not staged, the Flexblade really does pile it up that high!

http://www.hunterfamilypics.net/images/other%20stuff/jeepstuff/plow005.jpg

dunedog
02-13-2006, 08:42 PM
Lookin good BD:salute:

PhantomRacer
02-15-2006, 09:45 AM
Before my lite mod. Stupid looking, poor performing utility lights (SB Stock):

http://www.geocities.com/yellow_mgb/snowbear/photo014.jpg

and after. Somewhat better looking, other than the lazy-eye effect (less than perfect post alignment. I will shim it to level it off with washers some day

http://www.geocities.com/yellow_mgb/snowbear/DSCN1824.JPG

http://www.geocities.com/yellow_mgb/snowbear/DSCN1825.JPG

00 Ram
02-15-2006, 01:02 PM
well, all my "stuff" came in the mail yesterday. (lights from Northern Tool; light supports and shoes from Snowbear). the lights came with a wiring "kit"--couple of hunks of wire, and a handfull of connectors and a DPDT switch ..minimal instructions.:rolleyes: wiring diagram is about it...and it implies that the lights will be permanently attached to the truck. So it looks like I'll have to whip up my own "harness".

These lights have 5 wires each, so I guess they don't ground through the housing. a seperate wire, also, for the parking lamp, and directional. So I'm thinking I should go w/ a 6-wire trailer connector.

The other thing I was thinking was that I seem to remember on my old Fisher plow, the light setup was extremely easy to connect. It had plugs that mated with the plugs on the truck's headlamp assembly. All I had to do was unplug the truck's headlamps, insert that plug into the harness, and plug another plug on the harness into the truck's headlamp. 6 wires on the other end passed through the firewall to the selector switch, but that was it. I'm wondering if I can buy said plugs to match my current vehicle (?)

PhantomRacer
02-15-2006, 03:58 PM
well, all my "stuff" came in the mail yesterday. (lights from Northern Tool; light supports and shoes from Snowbear). the lights came with a wiring "kit"--couple of hunks of wire, and a handfull of connectors and a DPDT switch ..minimal instructions.:rolleyes: wiring diagram is about it...and it implies that the lights will be permanently attached to the truck. So it looks like I'll have to whip up my own "harness".

These lights have 5 wires each, so I guess they don't ground through the housing. a seperate wire, also, for the parking lamp, and directional. So I'm thinking I should go w/ a 6-wire trailer connector.

The other thing I was thinking was that I seem to remember on my old Fisher plow, the light setup was extremely easy to connect. It had plugs that mated with the plugs on the truck's headlamp assembly. All I had to do was unplug the truck's headlamps, insert that plug into the harness, and plug another plug on the harness into the truck's headlamp. 6 wires on the other end passed through the firewall to the selector switch, but that was it. I'm wondering if I can buy said plugs to match my current vehicle (?)

Good deal. I would just not run the plow headlights without a relay, unless you cut out the truck lights. If you wire up the lights like the included directions, you should be all set. But I didn't like having a separate light switch for the plow...but it would have worked. I have a trailer tap that connected to the tail lights and made all the connections. I have not seen (not that I looked for one either) a quick connector for plow lites.

I wired up the parking lights with the low beams on the plow. so that was one less wire to worry about. I grounded the ground wire to the plow frame, just to use the chassis for a ground. But using a 6 pin connector will work just fine just the same.

The lights I got had a barely readable rough wire diagram instruction page, looked like it was made by a 3 year old. It was accurate..just too complicated for my needs IMO.

Paul

00 Ram
02-15-2006, 04:43 PM
I would just not run the plow headlights without a relay, unless you cut out the truck lights.

that's what the switch does. its not really "seperate"; its "additional". it selects either the vehicle lights, OR the plow lights; not both.

interesting side-note: when I was googleing "plow lights", looking for fixtures to buy, I came across a statute on a state website that said that this functionality was "required". (PA). something like "...vehicle must be equipped with a switch inside the cab that disables the vehicle lights when the plow lights are activated...". don't know why they felt it was important enough to make a law, but they did. and I would imagine that other states have the same one.

bdhunter
02-19-2006, 06:50 AM
Yep 00 PA laws read that (They also require a yellow flashing light on the roof) - guess they's only have a hissy if they saw you toolin down the road with all 4 (or 6) on.

For now the flat 4 connector will keep it all pseudo legal till I bite the bullet and get the Meyer wiring setup from a bone yard beauty.

bradman0087
10-16-2009, 09:53 AM
I am getting prepared to do the snow bear light mod. bought the relays's wiring fabbed up some light brackets now i need lights and help hooking it all up.

I saw lights on northern tool or should i get a set off ebay? how many wires do i need coming out of lights?

Brad